A Taste of French Comfort Food in San Carlos

Roast chicken in creamy mustard sauce at Cuisinett.

Geoffroy Raby came to California a little more than a decade ago from northern France without knowing any English.

But he had the dream of recreating the simple, classic and casual bistro fare of his native land.

Last October, he did just that — opening Cuisinett in San Carlos with the assistance of Consulting Chef Guillaume Bienaime late of Marche in Menlo Park. Bienaime designed the menu, created the recipes and did all the training of the kitchen staff at Cuisinett. He’s even doing the book-keeping there. Raby makes you feel welcome immediately, chatting easily with both regulars and newcomers as if they had just stepped into his own home.

The rooster logo.

It’s a tiny place with only about 26 seats at small tables fashioned from reclaimed wood. Brick walls, exposed pipes and small arched windows just below the ceiling give the place an industrial charm. It’s already proved a hit. On Friday and Saturday nights, there’s often an hour-long wait to get in.

Chef Guillaume Bienamie (right) popping into the restaurant on his day off.

You order at the counter, find a seat and wait for the food to be delivered to your table. Brined Rocky chicken, mussels or a New York steak are offered, each with a choice of three different sauces, plus a choice of a vegetable side dish. There’s also a burger ($12) with shallot confit and Gruyere, a vegetarian soup of the day ($7), salads such as the Nicoise ($12), quiche Lorraine ($9) and a spicy lamb sandwich with frites ($10). Look for a pork chop and a shrimp dish to be new additions to the menu.

Recently, I had a chance to dine as a guest of the restaurant with Bienaime, who filled me in on what he’s been up to since the closure of Marche last year, which will reopen later this year as an LB Steak restaurant. After getting Cuisinett up and running, Bienaime has been working on opening his own restaurant. Unlike the fine-dining French fare he was cooking at Marche, his new restaurant, which will open later this year on the Peninsula, will be moderate-priced Italian food. He’s already purchased a pricey pasta maker, too. Stay tuned for more details on his new restaurant to come.

If you were lucky enough to have a French grand-maman, she no doubt would have cooked you the type of food served at Cuisinett. It’s comforting like home-cooking done superbly.

Ratatouille gets a little glam with a crumble topping.

Big, plump mussels in a white wine sauce.

The ratatouille crumble ($13) is a delightful mix of butternut squash, eggplant, zucchini, peppers and onions cooked in a casserole dish that’s topped with crisp bread crumbs mixed with Parmesan and herbs de Provence. Unlike some ratatouilles in which the vegetables have been cooked into submission, these retain their individual integrity and are cooked almost al dente. Enjoy it as a side dish to share or a vegetarian entree as it comes with a small side salad dressed with lemon vinaigrette.

With the moules frites ($16), we chose the shallot-white wine-herbs broth. The large, plump mussels are from Washington state. It’s a generous bowlful with slices of bread to soak up all the wonderful sauce.

For the roast chicken ($14), we went with the mustard cream sauce. After brining, the chicken is roasted on a spit. The flesh comes out juicy and tender. The whole grain mustard sauce is velvety enough to nicely coat the chicken pieces. A mix of peas, carrots and pearl onions came on the side. Cooked with herbs and butter, they make you realize just how satisfying such a basic jumble of vegetables can be when done really well.

On Sunday nights when the restaurant is normally closed, Bieniame has been hosting “Cuisinett After Dark” pop-up dinners, featuring more sophisticated fare. To find out about upcoming pop-up dinners there, email CuisinettAfterDark@gmail.com.

More: Scenes From A Cooking Class with Chef Guillaume Bienaime

And: Chef Bienaime Creates His Own Tomato

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Date: Friday, 16. March 2012 5:25
Trackback: Trackback-URL Category: Chefs, General, Restaurants

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  1. 1

    What a charming concept. We need more of these types of restaurants here!

  2. 2

    Tami: You might get your wish. Owner Geoffroy is scouting the Bay Area for future spin-off locations. Stay tuned….

  3. 3

    Wow, you had me at “shallot confit and Gruyere”! Everything looks and sounds amazing!

  4. 4

    That ratatouille looks incredible! Must try :)

  5. 5

    Okay, I have to say this: what is it with the Frenchies and roosters? Do you know Ludo Lefebvre? His mascot is a rooster, too. But dang his food looks so good and rustic!

  6. 6

    OMG, you were here? It’s my neighborhood! =) I need to try this place now. Thanks for the review. I have been curious but never walked in yet. So happy you are dining around here – I can totally make use of your reviews!!! :-)

  7. 7

    The prices seem so reasonable. And it must be such a tiny place to have just 26 diners.

  8. 8

    The food does sound very comforting indeed! The ratatouille in particular sounds lovely :D

  9. 9

    Sophia: Good observation! Ludo does have a rooster as his mascot, too. Apparently, the bird is a national symbol that dates back to ancient times. Take a gander: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gallic_rooster

  10. 10

    I was just thinking the rooster on the sign is a cute one–then saw the comments. I guess they are used a lot, but I always like them! I like this concept of French comfort food served in an easy-going style too.

  11. 11

    Looks like yet another great restaurant to hit the bay area! My list of places to check out when I next visit is ever growing :-)

  12. 12

    Sweet, and relatively close to the city, so i might be able to convince my hubby to come. Sounds fantastic.

  13. 13

    Oh wow you do find the most amazing places to dine!This looks so delicious!

  14. 14

    Would really love to try this place! Thought it was interesting that Guillaume Bienaime is switching from French to Italian. Every other restaurant that opens here is Italian…I wish there were more French Bistros like Cuisinett!

  15. 15

    I love it when restaurants do comfort food, but with a twist. That ratatouille crumble sounds especially amazing!

  16. 16

    I love, love, love the quiche lorraine! It is super yummy delicious! One of my new favorite places to eat!

  17. 17

    Great place. The ratatouille is my favorite.

  18. 18

    How about another one on Polk Street, SF? (Near Jackson would be perfect!)

  19. 19

    I’ve had several lunches here, and try & bring my work mates when we can get there a little before noon. The downside: it is small, so you may need to wait for a seat. The upsides are many: sit at the counter and watch the kitchen ballet: well trained, perfectly dressed salad, great sandwiches, quiche, and the nicoise salad is killer! (Don’t tell everyone or it will be even harder to get in.)

  20. 20

    […] And: A Visit to Cuisinett in San Carlos, on Which Guillaume Bienaime Consulted […]

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