A Trio of Maui Restaurants

Executive Chef-Owner Jeff Scheer of Maui Executive Catering plates a course at his chef's table dinner.

Executive Chef-Owner Jeff Scheer of Maui Executive Catering plates a course at his chef’s table dinner.

MAUI, HAWAII — On a recent trip here, I had a chance to check out three restaurants: one that lets you get up close and personal with the chef; another that opened only two months ago; and a third spearheaded by a “Top Chef” fan favorite.

The visit and meals were all courtesy of the Maui Visitors Bureau.

The Chef’s Table at Maui Executive Catering

Heartthrob Chef Jeff Scheer may never live down his shirtless photo spread for a story on chefs with tattoos for Edible Hawaiian Islands magazine. (Wherever he goes now, fellow chefs playfully heckle him with “Take your shirt off! Take your shirt off!”)

But the owner and executive chef of Maui Executive Catering has serious cooking chops.

You can taste for yourself at one of his chef’s table dinners offered on Friday and Saturday nights at his catering company’s site that’s hidden amongst a warren of businesses in a low-slung building in Haiku.

It’s $100 per person, and BYOB. If you forget the latter, you can dash across the street to a mom-and-pop grocery store to pick up wine or a six-pack before the meal begins.

It’s a convivial time as you perch on stools at stainless-steel islands set with placemats. You’re encouraged to get up and mingle with fellow guests, as well as to watch the chefs saute and plate just inches away.

Charcuterie aging in a temperature- and humidity-controlled room.

Charcuterie aging in a temperature- and humidity-controlled room.

On the walls are neatly arranged and labeled spices and preserves. A walk-in opens up to reveal an impressive charcuterie curing room.

The meal comprises the chef’s choice of about seven courses. You never know what the menu will be. But if you have dietary restrictions, you can call a week in advance to discuss options.

Farm egg dish.

Farm egg dish.

Carrot soup with buckwheat gnocchi.

Carrot soup with buckwheat gnocchi.

Opakapaka with heirloom tomato.

Opakapaka with heirloom tomato.

Among the highlights of my recent dinner was the farm egg yolk, as soft as custard, arranged gently with a beggar’s purse of smoky eggplant and cured Opelu tonnato sauce.

Vivid orange carrot soup was poured at the last minute over buckwheat gnocchi, mushrooms and beef tendon, crisp and puffy like a chicharron.

Opakapaka (pink snapper) was moist, flaky and brightened by the wonderful heirloom tomatoes Maui seems lucky enough to have practically all year-round.

Dessert was a buttery slab of cake, garnished with matcha-coated macadamia nuts, buttermilk sorbet, and surprising candied cucumber slices.

Cucumbers on a dessert? Yup, that's right.

Cucumbers on a dessert? Yup, that’s right.

Locals used to make up most of the attendees for the dinner, Scheer says. But lately, tourists have been finding their way here for this unique dining experience.

Frida’s — The Latest From Chef Mark Ellman

Chef Mark Ellman, who already has a roster of restaurants on the island that includes Mala Ocean Tavern, just opened his latest venture in February.

Frida’s Mexican Beach House is right on the beach with floor-to-ceiling retractable windows that let the outside in.

Locals lament the lack of good Mexican food on the island. But Ellman has come to their rescue with his pan-Latin menu.

Fish Veracruz.

Fish Veracruz.

Chicken tinga taco.

Chicken tinga taco.

Spicy ahi.

Spicy ahi.

Vanilla flan with caramel.

Vanilla flan with caramel.

Grilled fish Veracruz ($39) brought a big slab of grilled mahi mahi in a tomato sauce dotted with olives.

Ahi Aguachile ($18) had a big kick of heat from house-pickled jalapenos. Creamy avocado slices helped douse the heat.

Chicken tinga taco ($6) was quite meaty with the tender shredded poultry cooked in a smoky chipotle sauce.

An eggy flan, as smooth as can be, ends the meal on a sweet high.

The old vault.

The old vault.

The view as you eat.

The view as you eat.

The pretty, open-air restaurant, was once a bank. Yup, right on the beach.

You can still spot the old safe prominently past the hostess stand. It’s now used to store dry goods safely.

Migrant

This is not my first visit to Migrant. Nor will it be my last.

Chef Sheldon Simeon’s Filipino-inspired food is the stuff you crave.

Simeon, the first Hawaiian chef to compete on “Top Chef,” invites you to “Come My House. Eat.”

A painting of Chef Sheldon Simeon at Migrant restaurant.

A painting of Chef Sheldon Simeon at Migrant restaurant.

That’s the restaurant’s spirit in a nutshell — a place that doesn’t take itself too seriously in tone and wants nothing more than to nourish you well.

Fried Brussels sprouts ($10) get doused with sweet chili sauce, peanuts and mint for a powerhouse of bold flavors.

Korean fried chicken wings ($19) are a must-order, battered with Hawaiian vodka to give it an extra crisp coating, then garnished with roasted kimchee peanuts and fresh Asian herbs.

Fried Brussels sprouts.

Fried Brussels sprouts.

KFC -- Korean fried chicken wings.

KFC — Korean fried chicken wings.

House-made chow fun noodles with lechon pork.

House-made chow fun noodles with lechon pork.

Mahi mahi with mushrooms.

Mahi mahi with mushrooms.

Chewy, fat chow fun noodles ($15) are made in house and get sauteed with Filipino lechon pork, brown butter and Parmigiano.

A special of mahi mahi ($40) brought out a generous slab atop local mushrooms softened into a ragu. A touch of calamansi and sambal upped the tang and heat.

Sure, you’ve had chicharrones before. But have you had them as dessert? Shatteringly crisp pork skins are pretty awesome when sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and drizzled with chocolate sauce.

Chicharrones -- for dessert.

Chicharrones — for dessert.

Ube ice cream.

Ube ice cream.

Taro-passion fruit pie.

Taro-passion fruit pie.

Molakai sweet potatoes get churned into ice cream, creating a dazzling purple colored treat.

Except for the fluff of whipped cream on the side, Migrant’s taro pie is dairy-free and gluten-free. It has a cheesecake-like texture and the sweet tang of passion fruit.

It’s food that makes you want to come to this “house” again and again.

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