Good Things Come In Three at Michael Mina in San Francisco

A seafood trio at Michael Mina restaurant.

A seafood trio at Michael Mina restaurant.

 

At Michael Mina’s flagship eponymous restaurant in San Francisco, tasty things definitely do come in threes.

It’s been more than a dozen years since Mina first made serving composed trios a signature of his. Now, he’s brought that style back as an option at his downtown restaurant.

The trios menu, which just debuted a couple weeks ago at Michael Mina restaurant, offers a three-course prix fixe for $105. Because each course is composed of one highlighted ingredient served three different ways, it feels like much more than just a first course, a second course and a third course. It’s like experiencing a much more extended tasting menu — but in a truncated way.

The special menu also offers a couple of Mina blasts from the pasts, regular-sized dishes that can be ordered instead of a trio, such as his famed ahi tartare.

I was prepared to enjoy three courses when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant recently. But the kitchen had other ideas — wanting me to try pretty much every option offered on that menu. Out they came, one by one, until my husband and I had to wave the white flag. Even Executive Chef Ron Siegel jokingly apologized at the end for the avalanche of food.

But it’s hard to turn down morsels so delicious.

Sashimi trio

Sashimi trio

The parade started with a trio of sashimi — Spanish bluefin belly with yuzu citrus gel, medai with roasted tomato puree, and kamasu with compressed cantaloupe and geoduck. Each was firm, fresh, just impeccable. A nice touch was the fresh wasabi grated right at the table.

Bread was delivered, slabs of toasted, warm sourdough already buttered with a crock of honey-sweetened ricotta-mascarpone with a a touch of sea salt. Who can resist?

Sourdough, already toasted and buttered.

Sourdough, already toasted and buttered.

Next up was a Pan-Pacific Seafood Tasting trio. On the left of the three-compartment plate was big fin squid in a lovely coconut curry sauce, its sweetness balancing the subtle iron flavor of the squid ink; in the middle, Moro Bay abalone with dehydrated tomato in a tomato dashi so wonderful that I took a spoon to it to get every last drop; and ayu (or sweetfish) done tempura style with traditional dashi.

Siegel, of course, was the first American chef to ever beat an Iron Chef on the original Japanese version of the show. His time in Japan forever changed his style of cooking, fortifying it with greater Eastern influences. He has consummate skills when it comes to handling seafood with respect, and it clearly shows in those first two trios.

Lobster in three different preparations.

Lobster in three different preparations.

Then it was on to an oldie but goodie from the Mina repertoire — a trio of butter-poached lobster. First, a luxurious nugget topped with Osetra caviar and garnished with chanterelles, then another morsel with Matsutake mushroom and a frothy lobster-sake emulsion, and finally, lobster risotto with corn and summer truffles. In each case, the meltingly sweet tenderness of the lobster proved a nice contrast to the meaty mushrooms.

The server gently cooks the slices of rib eye at the table.

The server gently cooks the slices of rib eye at the table.

Before pouring dashi over the meat.

Before pouring dashi over the meat.

That was followed by one of the single entrees: Schmitz Ranch Beef Shabu Shabu. Instead of cooking the thin, marbled slices of prime angus rib eye yourself, your server does it for you in an elegant copper pot before depositing the slices in a dark earthenware bowl put before you. Dashi broth is poured over, and two sauces are arranged to dip into: white miso and toasted sesame. The meat remains nicely rare throughout, assuring a juicy richness as you bite into each slice.

Tolenas Farms Quail trio brought forth the tiny bird first smoked with applewood, then accompanied with a jammy fig puree and a nugget of fatty smoked Wagyu that seemed like it came from nowhere on the plate, but was a pleasure to discover. Quail meat also was folded into a round ravioli that was served with charred eggplant and tomato jam. Lastly, the quail was done up Madras curry.

The trio of quail.

The trio of quail.

Duck highlighted three ways.

Duck highlighted three ways.

From a tiny bird to a larger bird as the next course was Liberty Farms Duck & Foie Gras trio. First with blackberry sauce, then with huckleberries and bacon, and lastly, the seared foie served with a crisp toast point.

Then it was on to heritage pork done three ways: in a perfect tortellone with maitake and squash blossoms; a small juicy pork chop with summer peppers and tarragon; and a tiny square of pork belly with crackling crisp skin, its richness cut ever so slightly by a lively salsa verde.

Heritage pork trio.

Heritage pork trio.

The last of the savory courses brought forth a tender lamb chop with curried eggplant and lamb-thyme jus.

A juicy lamb chop.

A juicy lamb chop.

The cheese course was again a study of threes: Fourme D’Ambert blue cheese with fig marmalade and shavings of chocolate, an unusual combination that worked with the earthiness of the chocolate tempering the sharpness of the cheese; Teleeka (Tomales Farmstead Creamery’s soft-ripened cheese of sheep, goat and cow’s milks) served with tomato gel; and Bodacious, a fresh goat cheese alongside sweet-piquant peach mostardo and chestnut honey.

Three different cheeses.

Three different cheeses.

Three different desserts.

Three different desserts.

The dessert trio consisted of a beignet with caramel sauce fortified with Macallan scotch, which I pretty much wanted to drink; stone fruit with a delicate, floral chamomile cream; and devil’s food cake with pecan nougat and gianduja ice cream — a chocolate lover’s dream.

Sweet nibbles.

Sweet nibbles.

And of course, chocolates.

And of course, chocolates.

That was followed by apricot and chestnut truffles, and dark chocolate-black sesame macarons, shortbread cookies and caramels.

Whew.

And with that, a meal of trios that almost demanded three stomachs, came to a satisfying end.

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More: A Visit to Bourbon Steak at Levi’s Stadium

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And: Take Five with Chef Ron Siegel

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