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    Craving Chinese Food, Part 1

    August 11th, 2008

    Long beans and olives? Yes, it is Chinese.

    I could say that it’s the sight of all those Olympic sprinters, synchronized swimmers, and gymnasts competing at full throttle that’s working up my appetite. But really, as I’ve watched the Summer Games, it’s China itself that’s really got me hungry for some delectable Chinese food.

    So out came my wok during a break from all that athleticism. I decided to try my hand at these two dishes because they each make use of an ingredient we don’t normally associate with Chinese food. Enjoy one dish today, and the second dish in tomorrow’s FoodGal posting. Make both dishes together and serve with steamed rice for an easy, quick meal. The two dishes especially compliment one another because one is a little on the salty side, while the other has a natural, subtle sweetness.

    Today’s dish incorporates dry-cured black olives, of all things, which, surprisingly, turn out to be a little-known but traditional Chinese ingredient. “Wok-charred long beans with black olives” was published in the July 2008 issue of Saveur magazine. It’s an adaptation of the recipe from “Around the World in 80 Dinners” (William Morrow). Cheryl Jamison says the olives give the dish a salty pungency akin to Asian shrimp paste. I heartily agree. The beans get a nice smokiness from the high heat of the wok, and the olives, garlic and black vinegar make magic together.

    Wok-Charred Long Beans with Black Olives

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    A Profile of Chef Daniel Sudar of Red Lantern in Redwood City

    July 16th, 2008

    Daniel Sudar cooking in his San Francisco condo

    Get to know Chef Daniel Sudar in my story on “Chef’s Night In” in today’s San Francisco Chronicle food section.

    Sudar is the multi-talented, multi-faceted chef of Red Lantern, who also makes his own jewelry, does fashion photography, and designs clothing, including the French-cuffed shirt he’s wearing in this photo above. Learn how to make his version of gado gado, a traditional salad from his homeland of Indonesia.

    Gaoo gado, an Indonesian salad of contrasting textures and flavors


    Amped Up Sesame Cake

    July 16th, 2008

    Sesame cake

    Maybe you’ve tasted sesame cake before. Well, you probably haven’t had sesame cake like this before.

    Extremely moist, artful with black sesame seeds throughout, and with the haunting, revved up flavor of toasted Asian sesame oil. Wow.

    The recipe is from baker extraordinaire, Alice Medrich, who never ceases to amaze. It’s from her book,
    “Pure Dessert” (Artisan). It’s a simple cake to bake, and one that needs no other adornment to shine.

    Sesame Seed Cake

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    A Taste of Summer

    July 2nd, 2008

    Edamame shiso salad with yuzu vinaigrette

    Bright, fresh, and a snap to make, this salad is the perfect starter or side for the lazy days of summer.

    If you keep a bag of frozen edamame in your freezer and grow your own shiso plant in your garden as I do, you can put this dish together anytime the mood strikes. I love this floral , tangy, crisp vinaigrette also on chilled green beans, fava beans, peas, asparagus, or salad greens. I think you’ll find it’s definitely a keeper to add to your culinary repertoire.

    This wonderful recipe is from The Breakaway Cook by San Franciscan Eric Gower, who has a knack for using Japanese ingredients in clever, yet simple ways.

    Edamame shiso salad with yuzu vinaigrette

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    A Mackerel Match Made In Heaven

    May 27th, 2008

    Stuart Brioza's mackerel

    My husband can attest to the fact that mackerel is not one of my fave fishes. In fact, usually when I get a slice in an assortment of sushi or sashimi, it always ends up on his plate instead.

    Stuart Brioza knows it’s a hard-sell, too, even if mackerel (wild-caught king and Spanish) is one of the best seafood choices on the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Guide. Nevertheless, Brioza, the executive chef of Rubicon in San Francisco, made many a convert when he cooked a fabulous honey, soy, and beer broiled mackerel with sesame-lime glaze at the recent “Cooking For Solutions” gala at the aquarium. The usual strong taste of the mackerel was tempered by the marriage of the other sweet, aromatic, and citrusy ingredients. The result was like a less sweet unagi. And it was scrumptious.

    Speaking of marriage, Brioza and his longtime girlfriend, Nicole Krasinski, Rubicon’s pastry chef, will finally be tying the knot. The couple, who met 13 years ago in a photography class at De Anza College in Cupertino, will be getting hitched on a friend’s farm in Hilo in September. Krasinski, who’s not fond of cake (say what?), plans on serving their guests exotic citrus tarts instead.

    It’s shaping up to be quite a year for Brioza, who grew up in Cupertino and Danville, and Krasinski, who is a Los Gatos native. In the July issue of Food & Wine magazine, the couple will be featured in a story about the peach tree they adopt every year at Mas Masamoto’s renowned peach farm just outside of Fresno. Look for mouth-watering sweet and savory peach recipes.

    The happy couple in front of the jellyfish exhibit.

    And for those of you who love mackerel — and those of you who don’t quite yet — here’s Brioza’s recipe that’s guaranteed to please.

    Honey, Soy and Beer Broiled Mackerel with Sesame-Lime Glaze

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