View all posts filed under 'Recipes (Savory)'

Cooking in Embers a la Michael Chiarello

Wednesday, 3. July 2013 5:25

Grilled potato salad with ember-roasted garlic dressing -- to put pizzazz in your Fourth of July.

Grilled potato salad with ember-roasted garlic dressing — to put pizzazz in your Fourth of July.

Men like to play with fire. And male chefs sure like cooking with it.

In fact, cooking in embers is all the rage now at places like Saison in San Francisco, and the Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena.

What’s the appeal? First, the primal aspect of it all. Second, the technique makes use of the residual heat that would otherwise just dissipate and go to waste. Third, it adds a gentle yet deep smoky quality.

I thought I’d give it a try, particularly when a free copy of the new “Michael Chiarello’s Live Fire” (Chronicle Books) landed in my mailbox for reviewing. Chiarello is a major fan of live fire. Every Northern California he’s worked in or owned — Tra Vigne, Bottega and Coqueta — all feature grills with live fire.

MichaelChiarelloLiveFire

The book includes 125 recipes for cooking everything from seafood to pizza to desserts over a live fire. Of course, not many of us may have the space to cook a whole baby goat on a spitjack in our backyard, but there are plenty of recipes easily do-able even on a compact grill.

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Category:Chefs, Cool Cooking Techniques, General, Recipes (Savory), Restaurants | Comments (9) | Author:

My First Close Encounter with A Certain Vegetable

Friday, 28. June 2013 5:25

Classic leeks in vinaigrette.

Classic leeks in vinaigrette.

 

When I was a senior in high school, my friends and I saved up our money to dine at Chez Panisse in Berkeley for the very first time.

We four thought ourselves so grown up and so in the know.

Of course, that feeling of confidence dissipated immediately when the first course arrived.

A platter was set before us, containing mystifying long, tubular things that looked for all the world like overgrown green onions. They had been simply grilled with good olive oil, and finished with salt and pepper. We glanced at one another, perplexed, wondering what they were and just how we were supposed to eat them.

Yes, that was my first encounter with leeks.

And I admit that I didn’t necessarily appreciate them then.

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Category:Bakeries, Chefs, General, Recipes (Savory), Restaurants | Comments (10) | Author:

Fall in Love with Roasted Carrot Dip

Friday, 3. May 2013 5:27

An addicting dip made with roasted carrots.

An addicting dip made with roasted carrots.

I don’t know if this “Roasted Carrot Dip” will guarantee you 20-20 vision.

But with four large carrots in it, this dip will have you seeing this common root veggie in a whole new light.

The recipe is from “Modern Mediterranean: Easy, Flavorful Home Cooking” (Stewart, Tabori & Chang), of which I received a review copy. Raised in Greece and New York, Melia Marden, executive chef of The Smile in New York City, offers up 125 Mediterranean-inspired recipes made for the home-cook. You’ll be inviting friends and family over in no time flat for a Greek-style feast with everything from fava bean crostini to Moroccan meatballs to Greek-yogurt panna cotta.

What caught my eye about this particular dip is how relatively healthful it is. So many favorite dips that we can’t stop dunking into are loaded with mayonnaise or cream cheese, leaving us with a caloric-hangover before we know it.

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Category:Chefs, General, Recipes (Savory), Restaurants | Comments (10) | Author:

Staff Meals Part II: Danny Meyer’s Roasted Asparagus Gratin

Wednesday, 17. April 2013 5:27

Asparagus spears get broiled with mayo and grated cheese.

Asparagus spears get broiled with mayo and grated cheese.

If there’s any restaurateur noted for impeccable service, it’s New York’s Danny Meyer.

The CEO of Union Square Hospitality Group, Meyer has founded and overseen some of Manhattan’s most acclaimed establishments, including Union Square Cafe, Grammercy Tavern, Maialino, The Modern and many more. He’s even authored a book on the art of hospitality.

So, it’s probably no surprise that Meyer takes staff meals seriously. After all, it’s a way to nourish and care for the folks who work for him.

“Family Table: Favorite Staff Meals From Our Restaurants to Your Home” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt) showcases just that. The new cookbook, of which I received a review copy, was written by Chef Michael Romano, culinary director for Union Square Hospitality Group, and Karen Stabiner, adjunct professor at Columbia’s graduate school of journalism.

StaffMeals

It includes more than 150 dishes that have been served to staff at his restaurants. The book is arranged traditionally with chapters divided into soups, salads, seafood, drinks, desserts and the like.

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Category:Chefs, General, Recipes (Savory), Restaurants | Comments (11) | Author:

Staff Meals Part I: Wylie Dufresne’s Cashew and Fennel Salad

Tuesday, 16. April 2013 5:25

The wd-50 salad that only the staff gets to enjoy.

The wd-50 salad that only the staff gets to enjoy.

 

You won’t find this salad or any other on the menu at wd-50 in New York.

Not now. Not ever.

That’s because Chef-Owner Wylie Dufresne apparently is not a fan of leafy green salads. Go figure.

You’ll find that amusing insight, along with this recipe for “Cashew and Fennel Salad with Honey Mustard Vinaigrette” in the delightful new book, “Come In, We’re Closed: An Invitation to Staff Meals at the World’s Best Restaurants” (Running Press), of which I received a review copy.

It was written by Christine Carroll, a former line cook, culinary center director of Whole Foods Market Manhattan and founder of CulinaryCorps, a volunteer service organization for culinary professionals, and Jody Eddy, former executive editor of Art Culinaire Magazine and a former cook at Jean-Georges in New York and The Fat Duck in England.

ComeInWe'reClosed

The book showcases the food — not served to the public — but to the staffs of 25 of the world’s most celebrated restaurants including Ad Hoc in Yountville, Au Pied De Cochon in Montreal, McCrady’s in Charleston, and Mugartiz in Spain.

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Category:Chefs, General, Recipes (Savory), Restaurants | Comments (10) | Author: