Osso Steakhouse opened earlier this summer in a most storied location: the site of the former Vanessi’s, the venerable San Francisco restaurant high atop Nob Hill that fed generations during a time when eating out was really an occasion.
Situated at the bottom of the stately high-rise condo building, the Grammercy Towers, the restaurant is very much a throwback. It’s done up in striking Art Deco black and green, with sleek silver sconces illuminating the room. Tuxedo-attired servers carry the food to the cozy booths from the exhibition kitchen.
Osso is the latest venture by Dante Serafini, and Jennifer and Jerry Dal Bozzo, the same team behind the Franciscan Crab Restaurant, The Stinking Rose, Calzone’s Pizza Cucina and the Old Clam House, all in San Francisco. Recently, I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant to sample the new menu.
We started with the octopus crostini ($15.95), which brought thinly shaved octopus slices piled high on crisp rounds of bread. The octopus was nicely tender, but the liberal amount of chili used totally obliterated it.