By now, we all know how to waffle stuffing or mashed potatoes to crisp up and give new life to leftover sides, especially the day after Thanksgiving.
But “Crispy Potato Waffles” are novel, because they get their start with raw russets, meaning you can skip the step of making mashed potatoes altogether.
I think it results in waffles that taste even more potato-y, too.
The recipe is from the unique “Homage” (Chronicle Books, 2022), of which I received a review copy. It’s by Chris Scott, a “Top Chef” finalist and New York-based chef who’s the owner of Butterfunk Biscuit.
Scott recounts his family’s journey over seven generations, from his great-great-grandmother who was enslaved in Virginia in the mid-1800s to his great-grandmother who migrated to Pennsylvania after the Emancipation Proclamation, and his grandmother Nan who instilled in him a sense of discipline and an unbridled passion for cooking, to finally to his own upbringing in Pennsylvania Amish country and eventual ascendant culinary career in New York.
The book’s 100 recipes are flavored with all of that, taking influences from Southern, German, and Dutch cuisines.
Be transported with “Hot-Pepper Sauce Watermelon Salad,” “Grandpop’s Meatloaf Sandwich with Caramelized Onion Relish,” “Turkey Neck Gumbo Over Rice,” and “Pimento Cheese Spoonbread.”
For these waffles, puree russet potatoes in a food processor until smooth. Then forgo your bicep workout, and instead mound the potato puree into a cheesecloth, twist closed and start pressing and squeezing away, extracting as much excess liquid as you can. Believe you me, you’ll be astonished by just how much water will come out. This is probably why these waffles end up so much more concentrated in flavor.
Pureed onions, plus eggs, and a little flour and a little cornstarch are added to the potatoes to form a batter that then gets seasoned simply with salt, pepper, and a little chopped fresh parsley.
Plug in your waffle iron, and when hot, ladle in the potato batter.
The waffles cook up crisp on the outside, tender yet compact on the interior, with the earthy taste of potatoes and sweetness of onions permeating them.
Scott says to dress them with any dried seasoning you like, dip them in ketchup, ranch dressing, hot sauce, or even dollop them with chicken liver mousse.
I garnished mine with squiggles of sour cream, plus snipped chives. If I had some smoked salmon in the house, a few slices arrayed over the top would have been perfection.
Mushrooms sauteed in butter would make a fine topping, too. Or fried chicken, of course.
To mix things up, add little finely grated Parmesan or a dash of smoky pimenton to the batter, if you like
Really, these waffles are like a blank canvas for whatever you’re jonesing.
Crispy Potato Waffles
(Makes 6 to 8 waffles)
4 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 onion, cut into large chunks
6 eggs, beaten
3 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (optional)
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon cracked black pepper
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.
In a food processor, puree the potatoes completely. Add the lemon juice and pulse to combine. Pile the potato puree onto a cheesecloth or clean kitchen towel, pull the edges up around the puree to make a hobo bundle, and squeeze out the excess water over the sink. Put the puree in a large stainless steel bowl and set aside.
Add the onion to the food processor and puree until totally smooth. Transfer to the potato bowl, along with the eggs, flour, cornstarch, parsley, salt, and pepper. Mix everything together until well combined.
Spray a waffle maker with nonstick spray. Prepare the waffles according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The waffles can be kept warm on a baking sheet in the oven while you work.
From “Homage” by Chris Scott
To Enjoy With Potato Waffles: Joe’s Famous “Fried” Bacon
More Waffle Iron Fun: Waffled Miso-Sesame Tofu and Waffled Rice