Tinned fish is having a moment. So much so, that some people are just over it.
Not me, though.
At any given moment, you’ll always find in my pantry tins of anchovies, sardines, trout, tuna, and salmon.
Especially Fishwife Tinned Seafood’s collab with my go-to chili crisp-maker, Fly by Jing, of which I recently received samples.
Fishwife was founded by Becca Millstein and Caroline Goldfarb in 2020 during the pandemic. Like so many of us, they were cooking more at home and unsatisfied with the quality of tinned seafood in the market. So, they set out to create their own, based on wild and farmed seafood that’s sustainable.
Today, Fishwife offers a range of products including salmon, mussels, trout, albacore tuna, mackerel, sardines, anchovies, and even California white sturgeon caviar.
The salmon in this particular product is farm-raised in the Arctic Circle. In fact, Kvarøy Arctic is the first finfish farm to carry the Fair Trade USA certification seal.
The fish is brined in salt, garlic salt, and brown sugar, then packed into tins with Fly by Jing’s Sichuan Chili Crisp that’s made in Chengu, China.
The result is a very rich tasting salmon, that’s meaty in texture, and boasts a deeply savory and moderately spicy taste with a subtle numbing quality thanks to Sichuan pepper.
It’s no surprised that it’s more expensive than your run-of-the-mill canned salmon with a three-pack of tins retailing for $40. But the quality is undeniable.
A 3.2-ounce tin, which is one serving, has 340 calories, 26 grams of fat, 75 milligrams of cholesterol, 1,050 milligrams of sodium, 19 grams of protein, 235 milligrams of potassium, and 170 percent of the daily recommended amount of vitamin B12.
If you’re at a loss as to how to enjoy your tin of smoked salmon beyond in salads or with crackers, pick up a copy of “The Fishwife Cookbook” (Harvest).
The book, of which I received a review copy, was written by Millstein, who is based in Los Angeles, and Vilda Gonzalez, a recipe developer in the Hudson Valley.
As you might guess, the cookbook features recipes that for the most part incorporate Fishwife tinned fish. However, you could substitute other brands if you wanted.
More than anything, it opens your eyes to the possibilities of tinned fish in recipes such as “Radicchio Salad with Fennel Toasted Walnuts, and Rainbow Trout,” “Sardine and Marinated Zucchini Sandwich,” “Risotto with Tinned Octopus, and Smoked Paprika,” and “Anchovy and Olive Martini.”
“Chili Crisp Salmon Burger with Lettuce, Tomato, and Mayo” is illustrative of just how easy these recipes are.
Just mix the tinned chili crisp salmon with chopped onion and grated carrot to make a moist mixture. Garlic, Dijon mustard, scallions, and cilantro add flavorful depth. Panko provides heft. And an egg binds everything together.
Shape into patties, then fry in a pan till browned on each side. Melt a slab of Swiss cheese on top, then slide each patty onto burger buns. Garnish with eggy Kewpie mayo, lettuce, tomato, and red onion. I like mine with just a little more chili crisp drizzled overtop, so I added that as an option in the recipe.
What you get is a little along the lines of a shrimp burger, but made with more boldly flavored salmon instead. It has Asian flair with a punch of umami. And it’s a simple weeknight meal that will make you grateful for having kept your pantry well-stocked with tinned seafood.
Chili Crisp Salmon Burger with Lettuce, Tomato, and Mayo
(Serves 4)
2 tins Fishwife Smoked Salmon with Sichuan Chili Crisp
1/2 large yellow onion, finely chopped
1 small carrot, grated
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon finely chopped scallions
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro (optional)
1 large egg
Grapeseed oil or another neutral oil, for frying
4 slices Swiss or American cheese
Kewpie mayonnaise
4 hamburger buns, buttered and toasted
Sliced tomato, lettuce leaves, and thinly sliced red onion, for serving
Chili crisp (optional), for serving
In a large bowl, combine the salmon with the chopped yellow onion, carrot, panko, garlic, mustard, scallions, cilantro (if using), and egg. Mix well to combine. Set aside for 10 minutes to allow the panko to hydrate. To test the mixture for the right texture, grab a handful amount and gently squeeze it in your palm; it should hold together without effort. shape into 4 burger patties.
Add enough oil to coat the bottom of a large skillet and set it over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering and hot, add the salmon burgers to the pan. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the bottoms are golden and crispy, then flip and cook the other sides for 3 to 4 minutes more. Reduce the heat to medium-low and place a slice of cheese on top of each burger. Cover the pan with a lid to allow the steam to help melt the cheese quickly.
Smear a generous amount of mayonnaise on both sides of each toasted burger bun. Assemble the burgers by placing the patties on the bottom halves of the buns, followed by the tomato slices, lettuce, red onion slices, a little more chili crisp if you like, and then bun tops.
Adapted from “The Fishwife Cookbook” by Becca Millstein and Vilda Gonzalez
Another Fish Sandwich to Enjoy: New England Fish Sandwiches by Martha Stewart