The dress that droops like a sad sack on the hanger but is transformative when slipped on. That plain cookie you reached for last that is surprisingly the most scrumptious of the bunch. And that quiet, nerdy guy you initially dismissed who turns out to be the love of your life.
Yes, looks can be deceiving.
“Long Beans Amatriciana” is proof of that.
Using Chinese long beans, otherwise known as yard beans or snake beans, in place of bucatini might seem virtuous and the ultimate no-carb, gluten-free hack. But in the hands of Chef Jeremy Fox, it is decidedly decadent, loaded with crispy guanciale, and finished with butter.
And wow, is it ever dangerously delicious.
This clever recipe is from his newest cookbook, “On Meat” (Phaidon), of which I received a review copy. It was written with his wife, Rachael Sheridan, a writer and actress.
Fox is the acclaimed chef-owner of Rustic Canyon and Birdie G’s, both in Santa Monica (though, the latter will unfortunately close at the end of this year). Food & Wine’s “Best New Chef” of 2008, he previously earned a Michelin star at the helm of Ubuntu, the pioneering vegetarian restaurant in Napa.
While the cookbook’s subordinate title is “Modern Recipes for the Home Kitchen,” many of the recipes are geared toward the more ambitious home-cook. ones willing to take a deep dive into making their own “Beef Tendon Terrine,” “Rabbit & Myrtle Berry Mortadella” or “Pig Head Pozole.” Others, though, are far less taxing, including “Apples Roasted in Bacon Fat” and “Mongolian Flanken Ribs.”
Pick up the long beans in the fresh produce department at an Asian market like 99 Ranch to get started on this standout dish. They look like stretched out long beans, and have a similar taste, though are a little sweeter and grassier, plus have a firmer texture.
“Long Beans Amatriciana” calls for one whole pound of guanciale. Fox includes a recipe for making your own. But nope, I took the easy route and bought mine instead. You might be tempted to use pancetta or bacon instead. Just be warned that both of those are far saltier tasting. So, do seek out guanciale, if you can.
Dice the guanciale and cook it in a skillet to render its fat and crisp it up. With a slotted spoon, remove those fried pork jowl bits to a plate — but leave all that fat in the pan to cook the onions and garlic. Deglaze the pan with white wine, then add in chopped, canned tomatoes.
While the sauce cooks, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. You’ll be cooking the long beans like pasta, so leave them long when you add them to the pot. Cook until tender. Fox doesn’t give exact cooking times, but I’d say it takes about 4 minutes. I added that to the recipe below, as well as included additional measurements for some of the ingredients.
Add the cooked long beans to the pot of sauce and gently toss to combine. Transfer everything to a large platter, and top with the guanciale and grated Percorino Toscano cheese, then dig in.
This is a saucy dish, chunky with tomato and onion pieces, along with the abundance of guanciale bits that eat almost like crisp, chewy piggy croutons.
You get the sweet smokiness of the guanciale, and the fruity acidity of the tomato sauce just like you would in the classic pasta dish.
The long beans can be slurped up — albeit with some care — like a bowl of ramen. Or opt for a knife and fork in polite company or definitely if you’re wearing a white shirt.
Long Beans Amatriciana
(Serves 6 to 8)
For the amatriciana:
1 pound (455 grams) guanciale, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 pound (455 grams) white onions (about 2 large onions), cut into 1/4-inch dice
3 ounces (85 grams) green garlic, sliced thin or 1 1/2 ounces (45 grams; about 1 whole bulb) conventional garlic, grated
1 cup dry white wine
4 cups good-quality canned tomatoes; if tomatoes are whole, break them up or blend gently with an immersion blender
For the long beans:
2 pounds (900 grams) long beans
Kosher salt
To serve:
3 ounces (90 grams) unsalted butter
Percorino Toscano cheese, for grating
To make the amatriciana: In a large, high-sided skillet, render the guanciale over medium heat until nicely browned and crisped. This is one occasion where I support crowding the pan, as the guanciale will basically confit in its own fat while crisping up, instead of drying out or burning. Remove the crispy guanciale bits to a plate and set aside, while leaving the rendered fat in the pan. No need for a paper towel to soak up the crispy guanciale…you want all that fat!
Return the skillet to medium heat and add the onion and garlic, cooking until just slightly caramelized, being careful not to burn the garlic. Deglaze the pan with white wine and reduce 75 percent. Add the tomatoes and reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the sauce is thickened to your liking, or 30 to 40 percent reduced, about 10 minutes. Make sure to stir as you go to avoid scorching.
To make the long beans: While your amatriciana gently bubbles away, let’s cook the beans. We’re going to blanch until tender, so they swirl like pasta. I can’t stand the “squeak” of an undercooked green bean, but Rachael (Jeremy’s wife) loves that. (Edit from Rachael to include that “his mentioning of this is moot because they have to be soft for this dish. Don’t yuck my yum, Fox.”)
To prepare the beans, wash and then trim the ends. Make sure to leave them long so that they mimic a long noodle.
To blanch, fill a large pot with salted water and bring to a boil. When I say salted water, I mean salty like the sea. Don’t be stingy with the salt. Unless bland is your thing. Add the long beans, but not enough so the water drops below a boil for more than a few seconds. If you must do this in batches, so be it. Blanch until tender, about 4 minutes.
If you’re preparing ahead or working in batches, shock in ice water until fully chilled, then spread out on paper or kitchen towels to dry. You can even twist them into portions like you would actual pasta.
To serve: If serving right away, drain off the long beans and add directly to the sauce.
Once you’re pleased with your sauce, turn off the heat and add the butter, tossing very well but gently so as not to break up the beans. Transfer to a large platter or individual dishes and finish with grated cheese (and extra crispy guanciale, if you like me, can’t get enough).
Adapted from “On Meat” by Jeremy Fox
Another Jeremy Fox Recipe to Enjoy: Jeremy Fox’s Yellow Eye Soup
Plus: Dining at Birdie G’s