As my knife and fork slid into the lofty, fluffy omelet to reveal a mountain of fried rice inside, I immediately felt like I was back in Japan.
Omurice or omelet rice is one of the many delicious mainstay dishes that I fell in love with while traveling through that country. So, when I read that there was a new place in downtown Palo Alto serving it, I was all over it.
Demi is the recently opened namesake restaurant of Chef Demi Ebara, who hails from Kyoto. She is also the owner of Demiya, which has five locations in the Bay Area.
Both concepts specialize in yoshoku food or Japanese-style versions of Western dishes that are homey and comforting. It’s the type of food that you can find served in Japan not only in mom-and-pop places but on upscale tasting menus, too.
Demiya is more of a fast-casual restaurant with an emphasis on Japanese curry dishes, while Demi is a kicked-up, sit-down restaurant.
Honestly, I was expecting a rather bare-bones decor when my husband and I decided to give Demi a try last week for dinner. The surprise was how lovely it was, done up with curved-back, butterscotch chairs; a modern chandelier that’s like a hanging bunch of grapes; and striking, geometric artwork.
It is also tiny. So teeny that the host stand and waiting area (such as it is with one bench) are outside. More seating is expected in the backyard in the coming weeks. Meantime, it’s probably worth making a reservation ahead of time like I did if you want to be sure of getting in.
A beer and wine license is expected to be approved in the future, too. Until then, you’ll have to content yourself with non-alcoholic beverage options. The imported ume soda ($6) is a good choice for something fizzy and festive, not too sweet, and invigorating with tangy Japanese plum.
You won’t regret ordering the Japanese milk bread ($12). It’s a whole small loaf, crisp and toasty on the outside, and squishy soft within. Slather it with the whipped miso butter that adds a little salty hit of umami, and it’s guaranteed you’ll finish the loaf before you know it.
The Osaka-style takoyaki ($12) is some of the best I’ve ever had, and that includes even in Japan. These small balls made with a pancake-like batter enfolded with pieces of octopus can sometimes border on being too soft or mushy inside. These, however, are crispy on the outside and custardy within without being pasty. They’re finished with Japanese mayonnaise, sweet-savory takoyaki sauce, and plenty of bonito flakes that “dance” in the air and provide a deep umami taste.
The Japanese beef & potato croquette ($14) is one large, deep-fried patty that’s super crunchy on the outside with a filling of mashed potato and beef. It’s finished with a savory demi glace-like sauce and sweet potato mash, and garnished with chilled pieces of eggplant, green beans, purple cauliflower, and barely pickled okra. My husband said it reminded him of the croquettes his mom used to make.
The Japanese hamburger steak ($39) is hand-kneaded and hand-formed to ensure it stays light and juicy, and not overly compacted. With gravy over the top, it is very beefy tasting, as well as tender as can be. Vegetables like those with the croquette also accompany this dish.
Now, it was on to my main reason for coming: the omurice. Tall and domed, it is a sight to behold. This one doesn’t possess the theatrics of some in Japan, where the top of the omelet is sliced open at the table, sending its creamy, just-barely cooked interior cascading over the sides like a volcano erupting. Nope, this one is more sedate yet delicious nevertheless.
You slice into it, yourself (video). The creamy, soft omelet on the outside gives way to lots of fried rice with bits of pork hiding in the grains. A puddle of savory brown demi glace-like gravy with enoki mushrooms pools at the bottom of the plate. It is a dish that’s as cozy as it gets.
Of the three desserts, the monaka matcha ice cream sandwich ($12) is perfect for sharing, as it comes in two pieces. Amusingly, they sort of resemble mini takeout burger boxes. Crisp, thin, and delicate monaka wafers (made from glutinous rice flour) that taste like a much airier version of a sugar cone sandwich a brick of good-quality matcha ice cream enrobed in dark chocolate. It makes for a satisfying sweet that’s not too sweet, either — the ultimate Asian dessert compliment.
Craving a singular, heartwarming taste of Japan? That’s exactly what you’ll find at Demi.