Folgasa, Douro Valley, PORTUGAL — There are few better ways to spend a sunny Sunday afternoon in this UNESCO World Heritage historic wine region than by enjoying a masterful lunch at Michelin-recommended DOC Restaurante.
Apparently, I’m not alone in that thinking, because when I dined there recently, the restaurant was so packed with patrons, most of them Portuguese-speaking, that it was turning away those who didn’t already have a reservation.
Directly perched over the banks of the Douro River, the restaurant beckons with its serene setting. Its polished caramel wood walls and floors, plus floor-to-ceiling windows that open up completely in summer, create a transportive feeling, as if you’re leisurely aboard a sleek super yacht.
Chef Rui Paula named his restaurant DOC for “Degustar, Ousar, Comunicar,” which is Portuguese for “Taste, Dare, Communicate.” It exemplifies his contemporary approach to cooking that’s marked by dishes full of finesse, beautiful presentations, maximum flavor, and nothing superfluous.
Put it this way: I tried only a handful of dishes. But even now, nearly two weeks later, I still remember each and every one vividly and longingly.
Choose from a 6-, 11- or 14-course tasting menu. Or opt to go a la carte, as we did. Even if you choose the latter, the restaurant will add a few extra flourishes that lengthen the experience and make it feel even more special.
At lunch, I forwent the wine for a non-alcoholic Koala Sunset (11 euros) instead. The color of a sunrise, it was a tall sip of orange, pineapple, passion fruit and eucalyptus. Tropical fruit-forward, and on the sweeter side, it would have been right at home on the beaches of Hawaii.
Bread service is included, and what a service it is. Each diner receives a wooden tray bearing slices of warm grilled sourdough, along with orange-scented butter, and a pour of Portuguese extra-virgin olive oil. What’s more, there are two “olives.” You are instructed to eat each in one bite because these modernist-technique trompe l’oeil olives actually gush olive juice and olive oil (the green one), and blood orange and olive oil (the black one).
The masterful bread program continues if you order a starter of acorn-fed 5J ham (50 grams for 29 euros) from 100 percent purebred, free-range Spanish Iberico pigs. The plate of thinly sliced, richly porcine, intensely nutting tasting jamon with its melt-in-your-mouth fat arrives with a warm loaf of crusty bread. It’s so warm that a gloved server tears it into pieces for you before presenting it. Place a slice of the ham atop a piece of the bread, and its warmth immediately softens the glistening fat on the meat, making for the perfect yielding bite.
It’s a sizeable loaf and will be pretty filling if you eat every piece of it. But honestly, it’s so delicious with its thin yet crispy crust and soft, chewy crumb that you’ll be hard pressed to exercise any willpower at all.
Smoked eel (29 euros) pieces arrive in a wreath-shape arrangement with tiny, tangy apple balls, slivers of smoky ham, and peppery galangal. The pieces of eel are silky and smoky, with the apples providing the perfect juxtaposition of fruity freshness.
For entrees, the veal loin tournedos (45 euros) couldn’t have been more tender or juicy. Two hefty ones share space with both crispy broccoli and broccoli puree, along with an earthy black bean sauce.
The suckling pig belly can be found on the tasting menu. But the restaurant also allows for ordering it a la carte. Don’t hesitate; just order it because this was quite possibly the best suckling pig I’ve ever had. It’s almost like pressed duck but in pork form. The flesh is pure succulence. The skin? So crisp, with all the fat underneath miraculously rendered, that I could tap a fork on it and beat out a tune if I wanted to do so.
Alongside was a tiny potato cake with bacon stacked within its layers. It was far less rich and heavy than expected. There was a separate dish of green bean salad that you could help yourself to. But it wasn’t weren’t prepared in the typical fashion. Instead, the crisp beans had been finely julienned, and served chilled in a tangy rice wine vinegar dressing, very much like a Japanese-style seaweed salad. This was genius, providing a clean, fresh recalibration for the palate against the sinful richness of the suckling pig. Every part of this dish was so thoughtful in letting the pork remain the overriding star.
When the entrees were finished, a beautiful platter decorated with fresh white blooms was set before us. At its center were two frozen white chocolate shells that held a racy raspberry filling and the surprise of Pop Rocks that danced in the mouth. Yes, Pop Rocks may be so yesterday, but they didn’t seem necessarily ostentatious here, as they were subtle, taking a backseat to the explosion of tangy raspberry flavor.
I don’t normally get dessert at lunch time. But when the rest of the meal is this good, how can I not? I’m so glad that I did, too, because the crispy creme brulee crepe (20 euros) was as memorable as everything else that preceded it.
It arrives looking almost like a triangular slice of French toast. It’s thin and crackingly crisp on the outside, a lot like a sheet of phyllo. The inside will completely win you over, as it oozes heavenly warm vanilla custard. Think molten pastel de nata filling, and you get why I couldn’t get enough of this. It’s finished with diced mango, mango ice cream, and a mango espuma that has the merest hint of chili. It’s hot with cold, sweet with spicy. And it is wow, just wow.
Even on the a la carte menu, there are mignardises presented at the end. A large DOC-embossed wooden box is placed at the center of the table, then twisted to reveal compartments holding tiny honey-almond treats along with mint chocolates possessing a big whoosh of exhilaration.
If ever I am fortunate enough to return to Portugal, I’d make a beeline back to the Douro Valley — not for the romantic scenery or the fine wines, but for this restaurant alone.
How much did I love DOC? That much.
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