Lunching at Michelin Two-Starred Harbor House Inn

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An exquisite bay nut tart with creme fraiche at the Harbor House Inn.
An exquisite bay nut tart with creme fraiche at the Harbor House Inn.

Elk, CA — I have never aspired to be one of those ladies who lunch.

Somehow, so many hours squandered in the afternoon just provokes too much guilt in me.

Yet after spending a leisurely weekday afternoon partaking of a 5-course lunch at the Michelin two-starred Harbor House Inn on the rugged Mendocino coast, I could definitely be persuaded to be one now.

That’s even on a stormy day that drenched me before I made it through the front door and prevented me from taking any outdoor photos.

Six years ago, I had the pleasure of dining for the first time at this 1916 property after Chef Matthew Kammerer came on board to transform the restaurant from a wayside stop to a must-stop. That time, it was for dinner, and before it officially opened to the public (because I helped write some of their original marketing materials).

The double-sided fireplace that definitely warms on a rainy afternoon.
The double-sided fireplace that definitely warms on a rainy afternoon.
The sitting room where you can relax before being escorted to your table.
The sitting room where you can relax before being escorted to your table.

So much has changed since Kammerer took over. Most notably, the former executive sous chef at San Francisco’s Saison when it held three Michelin stars, gained his own two Michelin stars, launching this Craftsman-style inn three hours north of San Francisco in the tiny town of Elk into the stratosphere.

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Clarissa Wei’s Taiwanese Steamed Preserved Greens and Pork

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A dish that reminds me of childhood favorites my mom used to make.
A dish that reminds me of childhood favorites my mom used to make.

For many people, their idea of pure comfort food involves sinking their teeth into a juicy grilled meat patty.

Not me.

Instead, I find the ultimate contentment in a tender meat patty that’s steamed.

The kind that emerges from a bamboo steamer in its own deep pool of delectable juices and flavorings all beautifully co-mingled, and just begging to be spooned over a bowl of steamed white rice.

“Steamed Preserved Greens and Pork” is that kind of dish. It’s from “Made In Taiwan” (Simon Element, 2023) of which I received a review copy.

This beautiful, acclaimed book is the work of Clarissa Wei, a Taipei-based food journalist who has been writing about the cuisines and cultures of Taiwan and China for more than 10 years.

While Taiwanese cooking has often been lumped under the all-encompassing umbrella of “Chinese food,” Wei takes pains to give this fiercely independent island nation of 23.5 million people its culinary due. When she describes Taiwan as being shaped “like a sweet potato — curvy and fat in the middle, gently tapered off at the ends,” you know you are in for a mouthwatering time, as well as a captivating read.

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Mendocino Coast, Part II: The Little River Inn

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The new lobster mac on the menu at the Little River Inn should not be missed.
The new lobster mac on the menu at the Little River Inn should not be missed.

Mendocino, CA — In this day and age that values change and progress at the speed of light, it’s amazing to think that the Little River Inn has been owned by five generations of the same family who have welcomed legions of guests for the past 85 years.

The original house was built in 1857 by Silas Coombs. His descendent, Ole Coombs, turned the property into an inn in 1939, which is now run by his grand-daughter Cally Dym.

Although I’d driven past the inn over the years, it was only when I was invited to stay as a guest last month that I realized just how surprisingly sprawling it is.

The Little River Inn sits on a sweeping 225 acres overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Not only are there 65 rooms, a spa, and a bar and restaurant, but two tennis courts and a nine-hole golf course with pro shop.

The Little River Inn on the Mendocino Coast.
The Little River Inn on the Mendocino Coast.
The "pianist'' in the main building.
The “pianist” in the main building.

Moreover, there are another five cottages just a half mile down the road, which is where my husband and I stayed in the Coombs Cottage, which was larger than many apartments I’ve lived in.

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Mendocino Coast, Part I: Brewery Gulch Inn & Spa

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The wine hour at Brewery Gulch includes not only wine but the makings for a complete meal.
The wine hour at Brewery Gulch includes not only wine but the makings for a complete meal.

Mendocino Coast, CA — Many hotels have complimentary wine hours. But few — if any — have one on the scale of that at Brewery Gulch Inn & Spa.

Along with four local wines to sip, there is plenty of food to enjoy, too. Forget bento boxes; these are proudly nicknamed “Mendo boxes.”

They hold what’s described as “appetizers” but is in actuality enough to quality as a moderate-sized supper. That means, there’s no need to get in your car to find dinner afterward, if all you want to do is chill on the premises. At least that’s what I found when I was invited to stay as a guest recently.

The great room.
The great room.

Local woodworker John Meyers crafted heavy-weight covered trays made of the same eco-salvaged redwood used in the construction of the 10-room inn, a rustic, tranquil retreat that borders 48,000 acres of meadows and redwoods of the Jackson Demonstration State Forest.

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Dipping Into New Hodo Dips

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New Hodo Zesty Lemon Dip that I slathered on an Everything bagel.
New Hodo Zesty Lemon Dip that I slathered on an everything bagel.

Dip into new organic, plant-based, dairy-free, gluten-free, and nut-free dips made by everyone’s favorite organic tofu maker, Oakland’s Hodo.

Yup, no surprise, the new dips are made of soybeans and soy milk, plus flavorings. If you’ve ever whizzed soft or silken tofu in a blender to make salad dressings or your own dips, you get the drift.

I had a chance to try samples of the three new dips: Zesty Lemon Dip, Chili Crisp Dip, and Sambal Sweet Chili Dip.

Store the dips in your refrigerator.
Store the dips in your refrigerator.

The dips look a little like hummus, with a slightly thick, semi-smooth texture.

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