Next year marks the 50th anniversary of the Davis farmers market, one of the first certified farmers markets in California.
Against the burgeoning social activism of the 1960s and 1970s, the farmers market started in 1976 with only three farmers, growing steadily to what it is today — a year-round market with 100 vendors, most of whom are farmers who come from no more than an hour away. You’ll find everything from the freshest in-season fruit, just-picked veggies, artisan bread, local honey, farmstead cheeses, tacos made to order, gourmet sandwiches, and so much more.
Located in the city’s oldest park, Central Park, the year-round farmers market is the only one in the state that boasts its own covered pavilion, ATM machines, and even a permanent information booth.
“We call it the Taj Mahal of markets,” says Randii MacNear, its executive director.
California, which has 840 farmers markets, is the only state that has certified farmers markets, which means that farmers have to grow what they sell, she added.
The Saturday morning market is the main one that sports the largest selection of vendors. There’s also a smaller Wednesday evening one, if you want to pick up a few items after work.
At this time of year, ears of fresh corn sure do beckon. Fortunately, when I visited the market, MacNear gifted me a copy of “The Davis Farmers Market Cookbook” (Elderflower Press, 2016), a collection of recipes that make the most of seasonal produce.
The book was written by Ann E. Evans, a former mayor of Davis and Ethel Brennan, a San Francisco food writer and stylist. The photographs were taken by my friend and colleague, Craig Lee.
The recipes are arranged by the season, from spring’s “Asparagus with Fresh Green Salsa” to summer’s “Barbecued Short Ribs with Dark Sauce” and from fall’s “Cowgirl Chili” to winter’s “California Lime Pie.”
“Sweet Corn and Fresh Oregano Fritters” is one of those dishes versatile enough to serve for brunch, lunch or dinner.
Cut the kernels off four ears of corn; mix with grated onion, flour, baking power, fresh oregano, and an egg. One look at the contents of my bowl, though, made me realize that one egg was never going to provide enough binder to hold all that corn and flour together. So, I added a second egg, which did the trick, creating an almost cookie-dough thick batter. If I were to make this again, I also might add a couple tablespoons of milk to loosen up the dough just a little more. I included those changes in the recipe below.
The recipe said to drop the dough by teaspoonfuls into a frying pan. I thought that size too small, so I opted to drop them by the heaping tablespoonful instead. Once in the pan, you’ll want to flatten each ball with a spatula. The dough may stick a bit to the spatula, so just use a butter knife to loosen it.
Fry the fritters on one side for about 2 to 3 minutes, flip to the other side, and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes until browned.
When one batch is done, remove them to a paper towel-lined sheet pan, as you continue to fry the rest.
Serve with a dollop of creme fraiche. Or use what I did, which was plain Greek yogurt, since I had it on hand already.
The fritters are quite crispy, with a soft, slightly chewy center. They have that naturally sweet corn taste we all love that plays well with the peppery oregano accent.
When you’re in the area, do check out the Davis farmers market. And don’t forget to pick up a copy of the cookbook there that salutes all the work that went into creating this pioneering market.
Sweet Corn and Fresh Oregano Fritters
(Makes about 12 to 16 fritters, enough for 4 to 6 servings)
4 ears white or yellow corn, husks and silk removed
1/4 yellow onion
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
Coarse sea or kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
2 eggs, lightly beaten
3 to 4 tablespoons milk (optional; if you want a slightly looser, lighter batter)
Extra-virgin olive oil for frying
Creme fraiche or plain Greek yogurt, for serving (optional)
Hold one ear of corn, tip down, in a large wide bowl and, using a sharp knife, cut straight down between the kernels and the cob, cutting as close to the cob as possible without including the fibrous base of the kernels and rotating the ear about a quarter turn after each cut. Repeat with the remaining ears.
Using the coarse holes of a box grater, grate the onion. Using your hand, squeeze the onion as dry as you can and then add it to the corn. Sprinkle the flour, baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, the pepper, and 2 tablespoons of the oregano over the corn and onion mixture and mix well. Add the eggs, and milk, if using, and again mix well.
Pour the olive oil to a depth of a scant 1/4 inch into a frying pan and heat over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, form each fritter by dropping the corn mixture by the heaping teaspoonful or tablespoonful into the hot oil, spacing them about 1 inch apart. Press down gently with the back of a spatula and fry until golden brown on the first side, about 2 to 3 minutes.
Turn and fry the second side, about 1 to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spatula or slotted spoon, transfer the fritters to paper towels to drain. Cook the remaining fritters the same way, adding more oil if needed and reducing the heat if necessary to avoid scorching.
Arrange the fritters on a warmed platter and sprinkle with salt and the remaining 1 tablespoon oregano. Top each fritter with a small dollop of creme fraiche or Greek yogurt, if desired. Serve immediately.
Adapted from “The Davis Farmers Market Cookbook” by Ann M. Evans
More Corn Recipes to Enjoy: Creamy Corn Bucatini (or Spaghetti) Bowl
And: Philadelphia Blueberry-Corn Tart by Georgeanne Brennan
And: Miao Pork with Corn and Chiles
And: Corn, Tomato and Scallion Salad
And: Wedge Salad with Charred Corn, Tomatoes, and Herby Ranch Dressing
And: Pan-Roasted Salmon with Seared Corn Sauce
And: Corn with Basil, Leeks, and Cumin
