Gone are the shelves of specialty cheeses, imported crackers, fresh seafood, pricey meats, and farm-fresh local produce. In its place are Middle Eastern specialties that are pitch-perfect.
When San Francisco’s Che Fico restaurant opened a sister location, Che Fico Parco Menlo, in the Springline development in Menlo Park last year, it also debuted a nearby gourmet market, Il Mercato di Che Fico.
Trouble was that surrounding residents never became regular shoppers there. So, about a month ago, the market was jettisoned for Bubbelah instead.
A Yiddish term of endearment, this fast-casual restaurant leans into Chef-Owner David Nayfeld’s Jewish-Italian heritage.
Chef Chris Timm who oversaw the mercato now runs the cafe. He also runs the company’s catering arm, which has been especially busy fulfilling corporate gigs in San Francisco, providing everything from Italian to Mexican to Southeast Asian spreads.
The aisles of shelves have been removed to make way for chairs and tables draped with sunflower tablecloths. A few outdoor tables also will be set up on the sidewalk outside in the weeks to come.
Last week, I was invited in as a guest to try the new offerings.
Order at the tablet kiosk at the front, then take a seat to wait for your order to be ready.
Although canned beverages are available from the wall fridges, Bubbelah also makes its own spritzes. The blackberry-coriander made with seltzer is none too sweet, but fruity-tangy like a shrub.
The mezze plate ($16) is composed of smoky baba ganoush; a sweet pepper-laced muhammara that gets big flavor from pomegranate molasses; thick labneh seasoned with sumac, zatar, and toasted sesame seeds; tomato and red pepper matbucha; and spicy, zippy shredded carrot salad with shallots and almonds. The dips tend to run together, but that’s okay, because you know you’ll end up smearing some of each on the accompanying pita. The pocket bread is not house-made, but it’s plenty fluffy.
The khachapuri ($16) is not traditional, but it is absolutely divine. Made with Che Fico’s pizza dough, the boat-shaped bread has deep developed flavor all on its own. But add in a center of feta cheese, mozzarella, spring onions, and poppy seeds, and it’s even better. Melted garlic butter is drizzled over it all just before serving making it taste like your dream garlic bread come true.
Bubbbelah may just have my new favorite version of matzo ball soup. Aptly called “Meaty Matzo Ball Soup” ($12), it lives up to its name with more chicken than broth. When you spy all the shredded chicken in the bowl, it will make you think there’s practically half a bird in it. What’s more, even the fluffy matzo ball contains ground chicken in it, too. The result is a bowl with bountiful poultry taste along with the liveliness of dill. I would come back just for this soup alone.
Grilled proteins are available as a plate, pita or lavash wrap. The beef shish kebab plate ($21) features kofta that gets added moistness and richness from beef tallow and water. It makes for a lighter, fluffier texture yet with deeper flavor. It’s served with fluffy yellow rice, sumac-scented red onions, Middle Eastern chopped salad of cucumbers and red peppers, yellow pickled peppers that have a real kick of heat; and smooth-as-can-be hummus.
The white fish kebab plate ($27) showcases mild ling cod, along with the same accompaniments.
For dessert, just walk out the door to the ever-popular gelato window, a holdover from the mercato. A single-scoop cup of the gianduja made with imported Italian hazelnut paste will run you $6 — and leave you feeling pure joy.
