Apple pie, pumpkin pie, pecan pie, and pear tart may be the classics that typically cap off the holiday feast.
But for me, a chiffon cake enveloped in swirls of whipped cream frosting holds a dear place, as well.
As a Chinese American with extended family that includes Japanese American relatives, an airy, fluffy cake like those commonly found at Asian bakeries always hits the spot at the end of a heavy, bountiful meal when we want just a little something sweet but not too much.
Sometimes the cake would include a layer of fruit such as sliced fresh strawberries or drained, canned mandarin slices. Aunties always offered slices to take home afterward, too, carefully arranged on sturdy paper plates with a toothpick or two poking out of the top of the cake to prevent the plastic wrap cover from marring its whipped cream surface.
Even though that cake of my childhood was always vanilla, this “Chocolate Chiffon Cake” couldn’t but help bring back a rush of sweet memories.
While it’s slightly more indulgent, thanks to the melted chocolate in both the batter and the whipped cream frosting, at its heart it still eats light compared to so many traditional holiday desserts.
This marvelous recipe is from “Chocolate Lover” (Chronicle Books, 2024), of which I received a review copy.
The book is by Michelle Song, a San Diego-based pastry chef, food photographer, and creator of the blog, Studio Baked. After forgoing a career in finance and digital marketing, she graduated from the pastry arts program at the San Francisco Cooking School, and externed at Los Gatos’ Manresa Bread.
With appealing recipes and stunning full-page photos, this is the perfect book for any chocoholic. Prepare to indulge in everything from “Strawberry Matcha White Chocolate Bark,” “Cocoa-Tahini Marble Cookies,” and “Miso Peanut Butter Blondies” to “Chewy Mochi Brownies,” “Chocolate Malt Cream Pie,” and “Black Sesame Cocoa Milk Bread.”
For the chiffon cake batter, hot coffee gets poured over chopped dark chocolate to melt it. The earthy, bitter notes of the coffee also accentuate the taste of the chocolate. Dutch-process cocoa powder also gets stirred into the batter to deepen the chocolate taste even more.
The cake gets its loftiness from the addition of seven eggs, with the yolks incorporated first, then the whites beaten to stiff peaks separately before being gently folded in.
Pour the batter into an ungreased angel food cake-tube pan, and bake. When done, its top will look a little like a chocolate crinkle cookie. Invert the pan upside down on a rack and let cool for an hour before unmolding onto a cake stand.
The chocolate whipped cream couldn’t be easier. Just bring heavy cream to a simmer, then pour over chopped chocolate, and whisk until smooth and the color of a mug of hot chocolate. Refrigerate for a couple hours to thicken. Then, add a little confectioners’ sugar, and whip to soft peaks. Frost the cake, then refrigerate to firm up for at least 30 minutes, before serving. And don’t feel guilty about licking the bowl clean because the whipped cream frosting is just that good.
You could sprinkle a little gold dust powder on top of the cake to jazz it up for the holidays like I did. Or dot the top with some fresh raspberries, sliced almonds or pomegranate arils. Or enjoy it completely on its own.
The cake is very moist, super chocolatey, and wonderfully satisfying, but not weighty and over-the-top rich like a devil’s food cake. Unlike buttercream, which is often so cloying from the large amount of confectioners sugar in it, this chocolate whipped cream frosting is rather reminiscent of a more ethereal chocolate mousse.
Indeed, this cake is none too sweet, which in many Asian cultures is the ultimate compliment when it comes to dessert.
Just be sure to remember the toothpick trick if you send guests home with a slice.
Chocolate Chiffon Cake
(Makes one 9-inch cake)
For chocolate chiffon cake:
7 eggs
3/4 cup (180g) hot coffee
1/2 cup (45g) Dutch-process cocoa powder
3 ounces (85g) dark chocolate, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups (190g) cake flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 3/4 cups (350g) granulated sugar, divided
1/2 cup (115g) neutral oil
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
For chocolate whipped cream:
5 ounces (140g) 60% dark chocolate, chopped
1 3/4 cups (420g) heavy cream
1/4 cup (30g) confectioners’ sugar, sifted
For the chocolate chiffon cake: Separate the egg yolks and egg whites into two small bowls, and let come to room temperature for about 30 minutes. (Room-temperature egg whites will be airier and more voluminous when whipped, so don’t skip this step.)
Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). You will need an ungreased 9-inch (16-cup capacity) tube pan. (The ungreased tube pan will allow the cake to “climb” up the sides as it bakes.)
In a small bowl or glass measuring cup, pour the coffee over the cocoa powder and add in the chopped chocolate. Stir until the chocolate is completely melted. Set aside and allow to cool slightly.
In medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Set aside.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and 1 cup (200g) of the granulated sugar until combined. Add the oil and vanilla and mix until well combined, about 1 minute. Next, add in the melted chocolate mixture and mix until well combined.
Add the sifted flour mixture to the yolk mixture and stir just until combined, scraping down the bowl as needed.
In a separate large bowl using a hand mixer or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar on medium speed. Once the egg whites start to get foamy, gradually stream in the remaining 3/4 cup (150g) of the granulated sugar and beat just until stiff, glossy peaks form. Take care not to overbeat. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in one third of the egg whites into the batter, then continue with the remaining batter. Fold just until blended and no streaks remain, taking care not to deflate the eggs.
Pour the batter into the ungreased tube pan and run a butter knife or chopstick through the batter to remove any bubbles. Smooth the top with an offset spatula and bake for 55 to 60 minutes or until the center springs back and a wooden skewer comes out clean. Immediately invert the tube pan onto a wire rack and let cool completely upside down, about 1 hour.
To remove the cake from the pan, run a knife around the inside of the tube pan and the center core to help loosen. Invert onto a cake stand or turntable and remove the pan.
For the chocolate whipped cream: Add the chopped chocolate to a heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring the heavy cream to a boil. Pour the chopped chocolate and whisk until homogeneous. Cover and chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or overnight. Add the confectioners’ sugar and whip the chocolate cream with a hand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment until light and soft peaks form.
Spread the whipped cream over the top, sides, and inside of the chiffon cake using an offset spatula. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes prior to serving. Store any leftover cake, covered, in the fridge for up to 3 days.
From “Chocolate Lover” by Michele Song
More Holiday Desserts to Enjoy: Frozen Maple Mousse Pie with Candied Cranberries
And: Cranberry-Pomegranate Mousse Pie
And: Sally Schmitt’s Cranberry and Apple Kuchen with Hot Cream Sauce
And: Festive Cranberry & Pear Tart
And: Apple Snacking Cake by Joanne Chang
And: Zingerman’s Gingerbread Coffee Cake
And: Apple Custard Tart
And: Pumpkin Swirl Ice-Cream Pie with Chocolate-Almond Bark and Toffee Sauce