Each year as spring comes around, I start to contemplate what tomato seedlings to plant in my backyard planters.
All four of them.
Yup, that’s it. That’s all I have room for in my tiny yard.
Three of my four planters call for some mulling. But with the last one, there is never a doubt. That one is reserved for Sungolds, the bright orange cherry tomatoes that pop with as much sweetness as candy.
Many of them actually go straight into my mouth, plucked from the branches one by one while I’m still pitter-pattering in the yard. (Don’t tell my husband.) But some do make it into my kitchen, where they’re destined for green salads, grain salads, pasta dishes, and ricotta toast.
Thanks to New York’s Rachel Gurjar, a Mumbai-born chef, recipe developer, and food writer who attended the Culinary Institute of America, though, I now have another showcase for these itty-bitty tomatoes with the outsized flavor.
Her “Paneer with Sungold Tomatoes and Basil” is like an Indian riff on the classic Italian Caprese salad. It not only subs in the fresh Indian cheese known as paneer for the mozzarella, but adds a pinch of cumin seeds for earthy savoriness. It’s not served cold or at room temp, either, but cozy warm, too.
This inspired recipe is from her debut cookbook, “East to East” (Chronicle Books), of which I received a review copy
Although she grew up middle-class in India, her family faced challenging times after her father lost his job and became a door-to-door shirts salesman. Yet with her mother’s ability to stretch ingredients into delicious and satisfying meals, the family never went hungry.
After bouncing between jobs in public relations, competing in an Indian reality TV show (she came in second), and working as a backup dancer in Bollywood, Gurjar finally found her creative calling in cooking. Thanks to her mother selling some of her jewelry, Gurjar managed to afford and graduate from New York’s premier culinary school.
Her story is chronicled in her lavishly photographed cookbook, which she calls a tribute to all immigrants who persevere to make their home in a new country. Her journey is told through her recipes, which have a foundation in her mother’s Indian cooking, but which have been shaped and reshaped by her experiences in this country.
Enjoy creative temptations such as “Roasted Grapes with Tamarind Glaze and Burrata,” “Crispy Lemon Miso Brussels Sprouts,” “Lamb Keema Taco Bowls with Mango Salsa,” “Charred Masala Butter Oysters,” and “Ghee Loaf Cake with Macerated Strawberries and Cream.”
This cherry tomato dish is the epitome of fast and summery. Simply sear cubes or triangles of paneer in a pan, then transfer to a serving plate.
In the same pan, cook cumin seeds, sliced onions, and sliced garlic. Once they’re softened, add in the cherry tomatoes, smashing a few of them with a spoon so they exude their sweet juices. Cook for another couple of minutes before adding fresh basil leaves. Once they’re wilted, pour everything over the paneer, and sprinkle with chili flakes, if you like. Serve as is as a side dish, or with rice or grilled bread.
The paneer makes this dish so fun with its squeaky, springy, cheese curd-like texture. It sports such a lovely milky taste, too. The warm tomatoes are soft and jammy, with the heat bringing out their natural sweetness even more, coating everything so deliciously in the dish. The cumin provides an unexpected seasoning. It is pretty mild, though. In fact, next time around, I would probably add a touch more cumin than the 1/2 teaspoon originally called for — a suggestion I added to the recipe below.
From here on out, I vow to refrain from scarfing down all my home-grown Sungolds in secret, and to save more of them to enjoy again in this fabulous dish.
Paneer with Sungold Tomatoes and Basil
(Serves 2)
8 ounces paneer, cut into 1-inch cubes or small triangles
1 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more for seasoning
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon to 1 teaspoon cumin seeds (depending on how much you like cumin)
4 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
1 small yellow or white onion (7 ounces), thinly sliced
12 ounces Sungold tomatoes
1 small bunch basil (about 3 ounces), leaves
Red chili flakes, for garnish
Toasted bread or steamed rice, for serving (optional)
Season the paneer cubes with salt.
In a medium nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Arrange the paneer in a single layer and cook until it turns golden brown on both sides, about 1 minute on each side. If it sticks, be patient; it just needs a little more time to develop a crust and will lift off easily once it does. Using a slotted spoon or fish spatula, transfer the paneer to a serving plate.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil, the cumin seeds, garlic, and onion to the skillet, cover, and cook until the cumin is fragrant and the onion is translucent ans softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Lift the lid occasionally and stir to ensure the onion isn’t burning. Add the tomatoes and salt and increase the heat to medium-high. Gently smash and break open some of the tomatoes with the back of a wooden spoon to release their juices. simmer until the tomato juices thicken slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. The sauce should be light and brothy. Add the basil leaves and allow them to wilt, 1 minute. Remove from the heat and pour the sauce over the paneer. Garnish with chili flakes.
Serve immediately with toasted bread or rice, if desired, or as a side with other main dishes. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Adapted from “East to East” by Rachel Gurjar
Another Cherry Tomato Recipe to Enjoy: Smoked Linguine with Clams, Cherry Tomatoes, and Basil Pesto” from SPQR
And: Smoked Barley with Blistered Tomatoes & Burrata
And: Summer Wedge Salad with Charred Corn, Tomatoes, and Herby Ranch Dressing
And: Quick Pickled Grape Tomatoes on Ricotta Toast
And: Stir-Fried Chicken with Tomatoes
