Get Ready for A Good Time at Horsefeather

It’s been so long since I’ve seen a new restaurant sport a menu with entrees mostly in the twenty-something-dollar range that at first I thought I was looking at a mirage at the new Horsefeather in Palo Alto.
But nope, the newest edition to the Town & Country Village has debuted with a price point that’s relatively comfortable in these economically challenged times.
Opened last month, it’s a sister restaurant to the one in San Francisco’s Nopa neighborhood, and it’s already packing in eager diners, as I found when I dined as a guest of the restaurant last week.

Think mid-century modern “That ’70s Show,” as the interior features plenty of warm walnut wood, brass track lighting, and smoked glass dividers.
Horsefeather is known for its cocktails created by its San Francisco general manager, Dzu Nguyen. They’ll run you $18 each, but they’re definitely memorable for their creative spark. The “Lowrider,” a smoky and tangy libation of cucumber, agave, and fresh lime that gets its dazzling pink color from hibiscus mezcal. The gin-based “Morning Glory” arrives with a creamy top thanks to oat orgeat and boasts a gentle maple syrup taste from the unexpected addition of candy cap mushrooms.

Executive Chef Johanna Fregoso Ruiz, formerly of San Francisco’s Aziza, oversees the menu that melds Asian, Italian, and Mexican influences.
As mentioned, the most expensive items are the cream sherry braised pot roast ($36), and the fried chicken & three ($30). We didn’t order the latter, but saw it served at a table nearby, and it’s a huge plate of food with three pieces of chicken, plus corn esquites, mac & cheese, and cilantro coleslaw.


Who can ever pass up duck fat fries ($11)? Definitely not us. Here, the thin, crisp fries arrive showered with umami seasoning and duck fat snow, along with slightly spicy curried ketchup for dunking.
Deviled eggs ($13) go Korean with kimchi pureed into the creamy, whipped yolk filling for a hit of moderate spice and a subtle fermented tang. They get adorned with frizzled crispy leeks, tobiko, and chives for a highbrow look.

For more Korean flair, enjoy the Korean crispy wings ($20). They are plenty crunchy, as well as glazed in honey, sesame oil, and gochujang. If you need to douse the heat, there is house-made ranch on the side.
No surprise, my husband opted for the double cheeseburger ($22), which was juicy with a delicious char flavor. The chuck and brisket patties are topped with American cheese, onions, lettuce, and a creamy special sauce, all on a brioche bun. A small side salad tossed in Dijon vinaigrette rounds out the plate.

On the lighter side but just as satisfying is the seared tuna ($26), which picks up extra color from being brushed with beet ponzu. The slices are arranged atop jasmine rice beside large rice crackers speckled with sesame seeds and a small salad dressed with a sesame oil-based Asian vinaigrette.
For dessert, there’s a refreshing yuzu custard ($12). With a creamy, pudding-like texture, it’s bright with lively citrus taste and topped with seasonal fresh berries.

Horsefeathers may be a charmingly old-fashioned term for “nonsense.” But this Horsefeather definitely makes sense for the times.