Category Archives: Restaurants

The Arc of Michelin-Starred Press

The fantastic pretzel with caviar at Press.
The fantastic pretzel with caviar at Press.

Six years ago, when Philip Tessier was hired as executive chef-partner at Press in St. Helena, his mission was to rework the then-15-year-old restaurant that had grown into a high-end steakhouse with a fabulously deep, award-winning wine cellar.

After all, whom better to accomplish that then the first American chef to ascend the podium at the internationally renowned Bocuse d’Or, winning silver, and before that made his mark rising through the ranks at Michelin three-starred Le Bernardin in New York and The French Laundry in Yountville?

That impressive wine cellar is still there, offering the largest collection of Napa Valley wines in the world. But now, so is a Michelin star, which the restaurant received in 2022 and has held ever since.

Last winter, Press took yet another step in its transformation — completely overhauling its kitchen. Most everything now is custom. There is an Argentinian-style grill, as well as a bespoke Bonnet suite from France.

At the entrance.
At the entrance.
Michelin-starred since 2002.
Michelin-starred since 2002.
The brand-new kitchen.
The brand-new kitchen.

With the gleaming new kitchen in place, Press rolled out a new four-course prix-fixe ($150 per person; $275 with wine pairing included; or $450 with reserve pairing included) to go along with its seven-course chef’s tasting menu ($195 per person; $350 with wine pairing included, and $695 with reserve pairing included). The cuisine is now more expansive and contemporary, rooted in new American fare through a Napa Valley lens.

Last week, I dined there in the soaring, white-washed barn-like restaurant with soaring ceilings, and opted for the seven-course menu. Even mid-week, the dining room was filled with elegantly dressed patrons.

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Savoie Has the Savoir Faire Down Pat

Savoie puts its own spin on a classic caviar service.
Savoie puts its own spin on a classic caviar service.

Tahoe City, CA — In this outdoorsy, unincorporated lakeside town of roughly 3,000 residents, where traffic lights are few, you might be surprised to learn that one restaurant — just one — actually features big-city valet parking. And it’s complimentary, no less.

But at Savoie, it’s a necessity, given that since its opening in July, diners have been clamoring for reservations as far as six weeks in advance. When the doors open on any given night, there’s usually a queue of 40 walk-ins hoping to snag a seat, too. Even before it opened, Food & Wine magazine had already dubbed it one of “the most anticipated openings of the summer.”

In fact, when I was invited in as a guest of this fine-dining restaurant last week, a camera crew from Chef’s Warehouse was in the house, filming a documentary, as part of the restaurant supply company’s inaugural behind-the-scenes series on restaurants.

The attention and accolades are no surprise, not when you realize the French-California restaurant was opened by celebrated veteran Michelin-starred chef Mark Sullivan and his wife, pastry chef Allison Sullivan.

Chef-Owners Mark and Allison Sullivan.
Chef-Owners Mark and Allison Sullivan.

The two met at the Village Pub in Woodside, which Mark opened in 2001 with the Bacchus Management Group, of which he is still a partner. He helped steer the Village Pub, and subsequent restaurants, Spruce in San Francisco, and Selby’s in Atherton, to Michelin-star fame. After leaving the Village Pub, Allison went on to work at Michelin two-starred restaurants in San Francisco: the Fifth Floor, helmed by Laurent Gras; and Masa’s in San Francisco, under the tutelage of Ron Siegel. Later, she apprenticed at Pierre Herme in Paris.

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Maria Isabel Hits It Right Out of the Gate

Duck carnitas enmolada with four different moles at Maria Isabel.
Duck carnitas enmolada with four different moles at Maria Isabel.

Husband-and-wife chefs, Sayat and Laura Ozyilmaz, may have opened their first restaurant, Dalida in San Francisco’s Presidio, three years ago, but you’d never know it from how tough it remains to land a table there.

So, it’s no surprise that this spring when the couple opened their follow-up, Maria Isabel, it immediately became one of the most sought-after reservations around.

Naturally, it also garnered widespread praise, including landing last month on Bon Appetit’s list of “Best New Restaurants” of 2026.

To say that San Francisco has been hungering for a restaurant like this is an understatement.

The city has no shortage of burrito joints, taco trucks, and homey mom-and-pop Mexican restaurants. It even boasts the only Michelin three-starred Mexican restaurant in the world: Californios.

The entrance.
The entrance.
The mural across from the host stand.
The mural across from the host stand.

But what was in short supply was a Mexican restaurant that was more upscale than those family-owned neighborhood stalwarts, yet more dressed-down than the ultra glam, highly finessed, special-occasion Californios.

Enter Maria Isabel, named for Laura’s sister, Maria, and her mother, Isabel.

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Yutori Brings A Certain Specific and Beloved Taste of Japan

Aburi don bento from Yutori in Palo Alto.
Aburi don bento from Yutori in Palo Alto.

If you’ve ever traveled to Japan, then you know full well the much-deserved affection for konbini culture.

Be it 7-Eleven, FamilyMart or Lawson, Japanese convenience stores seem stocked with most anything and everything needed in life, including an astonishing array of snacks and prepared foods that are not only fresh and delicious, but jaw-droppingly cheap. Talk to anyone who’s ever shopped at them and you’ll get an earful of wistful longing for those cushiony egg salad sandos, seaweed-wrapped rice balls, wasabi potato chips, assorted bentos, and so much more.

Yutori, which opened in Palo Alto this spring, brings a modern taste of that to the Bay Area.

Named for the Japanese word for “spaciousness” or “room to breathe,” this 5,000-square-foot space comprises a coffee bar, small marketplace selling Japanese home goods, and a takeout deli. Before the year ends, it will also add a sit-down restaurant.

Located on El Camino Real.
Located on El Camino Real.

I paid a visit a few days ago, specifically to check out the konbini-like offerings in the refrigerator cases. The array of bentos, onigiri, and sandos will definitely remind you of Japan.

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Sponsored Post: Santana Row’s “Taste the Row” Lunch Specials Coming in September

Crispy skin salmon cooked on the plancha -- part of the special "Taste the Row'' prix-fixe lunch at Augustine in September.
Crispy skin salmon cooked on the plancha — part of the special “Taste the Row” prix-fixe lunch at Augustine in September.

If there ever was a great excuse to take time for a proper lunch, it’s “Taste the Row” at San Jose’s Santana Row.

Monday through Friday through the month of September, 16 participating restaurants will offer special $25 prix-fixe lunches. Best yet, a portion of proceeds will benefit World Central Kitchen, the nonprofit humanitarian organization founded by celebrated Chef Jose Andres that provides nourishing meals across the globe to communities in crisis. So, treat yourself to lunch – and do some good in the process.

Augustine Restaurant at Santana Row.
Augustine Restaurant at Santana Row.
The bar at Augustine.
The bar at Augustine.

I enjoyed a sneak taste of the menu at Augustine Restaurant, where the two-course lunch starts off with a choice between a vibrant Gem lettuce salad with sweet Sungold tomatoes and haricot verts or a creamy cucumber gazpacho poured tableside over husk cherries and levain croutons for that special touch.

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