Category Archives: Cool Cooking Techniques

Lighten the Load, Part II: Black Garlic Butter Branzino

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It tastes like a restaurant-worthy dish -- but takes only one pan and about 10 minutes to make.
It tastes like a restaurant-worthy dish — but takes only one pan and about 10 minutes to make.

When it comes to Italian cooking, Chef Joe Sasto doesn’t like to adhere rigidly to tradition.

Thus, the title of his new cookbook, “Breaking the Rules” (Simon Element), of which I received a review copy.

It was written by San Francisco-native and “Top Chef” alum Sasto, who graduated from the University of California at Davis before going to work for three years at Michelin three-starred Quince in San Francisco, where he was in charge of the hand-made pasta program. From there, he went on to become executive sous chef at Michelin two-starred Lazy Bear in San Francisco.

The book, written with assistance from cook and recipe developer Thea Baumann, is a collection of recipes that Sasto makes at home.

From the first page, his flair for bending or breaking so-called rules in on display.

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Lighten the Load, Part I: Neapolitan Fish Stew

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Fish fillets simmer gently with tomatoes, olives, and capers for a super easy supper.
Fish fillets simmer gently with tomatoes, olives, and capers for a super easy supper.

At the start of a new year, most of us want to feel a little lighter.

That could mean actually losing a few pounds. Or simply resetting the palate after one holiday after another holiday of rich, heavy foods. Or reverting back to effortless cooking after preparing one too many complicated holiday specialties. Or simply stressing less about everything in general.

Whether the desire is physical or emotional, “Neapolitan Fish Stew” will take a load off.

That’s because it’s a no-brainer to prepare, and its simple, clear yet satisfying flavors provide the verve to energize any new beginning.

This simple and healthful recipe is from “A Kitchen In Italy” (Clarkson Potter), of which I received a review copy. It’s by Mimi Thorisson, a food writer and cookbook author of Chinese and French heritages who lives in Turin, Italy. The book is lavishly photographed by her husband Oddur Thorisson, an Icelandic photographer.

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Whipped Spam — Whip It Good

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Spam -- that you don't want to delete.
Spam — that you don’t want to delete.

It’s as guilty a pleasure as there ever was one.

Spam is both beloved and maligned. But as anyone who grew up like me with the canned lunch meat will attest, there’s just a comforting nostalgia that tugs whenever we spot the familiar blue and yellow can on a supermarket shelf.

It’s mandatory for Hawaiian musubi, handy for noodle stir-fries on the spur of the moment, and a right of passage with eggs of any sort in the morning.

Now, get ready to enjoy it in “Whipped Spam with Toast Points,” in which it takes on an airy, chopped liver or dip-like consistency when whipped with cream cheese and herbs.

This intriguing recipe is from “Padma’s All American: A Cookbook” (Alfred A. Knopf), of which I received a review copy.

It’s by Padma Lakshmi, the former host and executive producer of Bravo’s “Top Chef” for 19 years. The cookbook draws from her travels and experiences from her Hulu series, “Taste the Nation with Padma Lakshmi.” If you haven’t yet watched the two seasons, I highly recommend them not only for the salivating food that’s highlighted, but for the deep illuminating cultural insights.

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Tea Time with Hojicha Shortbread

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Buttery, crisp shortbread flavored with roasted Japanese green tea.
Buttery, crisp shortbread flavored with roasted Japanese green tea.

Move over, matcha.

The new “It” Japanese tea in town is hojicha.

With its rather homely, dirt color, it may lack the splashy, attention-grabbing vivid green hue of matcha. But like a brooding, slightly mysterious friend, it can take a little time to reveal just how appealing and intriguing it can be.

This low caffeine, Japanese green tea is pan-roasted over charcoal to create its characteristic smoky, toasty and nutty quality that has hints of coffee and caramel.

It stars magnificently in “Hojicha Shortbread,” which bakes up with an unusual top.

The recipes is from the new cookbook, “Baking & the Meaning of Life” (Abrams), of which I received a review copy.

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