Category Archives: Wine

Mendocino Coast, Part I: Brewery Gulch Inn & Spa

The wine hour at Brewery Gulch includes not only wine but the makings for a complete meal.
The wine hour at Brewery Gulch includes not only wine but the makings for a complete meal.

Mendocino Coast, CA — Many hotels have complimentary wine hours. But few — if any — have one on the scale of that at Brewery Gulch Inn & Spa.

Along with four local wines to sip, there is plenty of food to enjoy, too. Forget bento boxes; these are proudly nicknamed “Mendo boxes.”

They hold what’s described as “appetizers” but is in actuality enough to quality as a moderate-sized supper. That means, there’s no need to get in your car to find dinner afterward, if all you want to do is chill on the premises. At least that’s what I found when I was invited to stay as a guest recently.

The great room.
The great room.

Local woodworker John Meyers crafted heavy-weight covered trays made of the same eco-salvaged redwood used in the construction of the 10-room inn, a rustic, tranquil retreat that borders 48,000 acres of meadows and redwoods of the Jackson Demonstration State Forest.

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Kenwood Part I: The Kenwood Inn

Cooked-to-order banana pancakes with blueberry compote is part of the breakfast included in your stay at the Kenwood Inn & Spa.
Cooked-to-order banana pancakes with blueberry compote is part of the breakfast included in your stay at the Kenwood Inn & Spa.

Kenwood, CA — A couple years ago, my husband and I happened to stay at a Four Sisters Collection inn. Since then, when we’ve traveled on our own, we’ve often chosen to stay at its properties in both Northern and Southern California.

So, when its Kenwood Inn & Spa publicists reached out to me recently to extend an overnight stay to check out its renovation of the two-and-a-half acre, 26-room Mediterranean-style property, I gladly accepted.

What makes Four Sisters lodging so appealing? The room rates are relatively reasonable, especially in comparison to other hotels in the upscale touristy areas they are located such as Santa Monica, Carmel, Healdsburg, and Yountville.

Chocolate chip and oatmeal cookies to enjoy during your stay.
Chocolate chip and oatmeal cookies to enjoy during your stay.

Your stay at any property also includes a lot of complimentary extras, including fresh-baked cookies, a wine hour with cheese and charcuterie, and a full breakfast. When I’ve stayed on my own dime at its Healdsburg Inn, in particular, the main cook there is a delight, often going the extra mile to bake fresh apple cake or cranberry bread for guests. You can feel his pride, too, when guests dig in heartily with big smiles.

The Kenwood Inn entrance.
The Kenwood Inn entrance.
Overlooking the interior courtyard.
Overlooking the interior courtyard.

It’s that more personal touch that I think sets these properties apart from a bigger corporate chain establishment.

Having stayed at the Kenwood Inn once before — 12 years ago — it was interesting to see the changes under the new ownership. The property previously had its own ambitious restaurant, headed by a former Gordon Ramsay-trained chef, that was open to guests and the public. Now, that has been jettisoned for a cafe that provides breakfast to guests only.

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Sensational Sips, Part I

A pretty-in-pink gin.
A pretty-in-pink gin.

Malfy Gin Rosa

Have you ever spied a pink gin before? Me, either. At least not before receiving a sample bottle of Malfy Gin Rosa, an Italian gin that’s tinged a very pale pink from grapefruit.

Inspired by the Amalfi Coast, this gin gets a subtle citrus and bitter pith edge from Sicilian pink grapefruit, along with lemon. Juniper berries add characteristic pine and almost anise-like notes without veering into medicinal-tasting territory.

Just know, though, that because the color is so light, it won’t be visible once you add any kind of mixer.

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Dining at Nightbird

A riff on takoyaki, capped with uni and truffles, at Nightbird.
A riff on takoyaki, capped with uni and truffles, at Nightbird.

It’s elegant yet whimsical, with a name inspired by the chef-owner’s fondness for owls.

Kim Alter’s Nightbird celebrates eight years this year in San Francisco with an exciting development. Alter took over a space next door in late November, allowing the restaurant to expand its footprint. The new space will be used for private dinners, as well as occasional pop-ups by Nightbird’s pastry chef, vintage boutiques, and potentially even members of La Cocina’s food incubator.

It joins the restaurant’s other adjoining business, the Linden Room, a swank cocktail bar perfect for a pre- or post-dinner libation.

Last Saturday, my husband and I enjoyed the $195 tasting menu and $130 optional wine pairing. Alter added a few extra morsels on the house. The restaurant does include an automatic service charge, which is an increasingly common practice at many fine-dining restaurants. What’s out of the norm, though, is that it’s only 16 percent.

General Manager Ron Boyd and Chef Kim Alter.
General Manager Ron Boyd and Chef Kim Alter.

The minimalist, graceful dining room is compact and intimate. There’s a good number of staff, overseen by General Manager and Director of Hospitality Ron Boyd, that delivers an attentive yet unobtrusive service experience.

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Frances Mayes’ Tagliatelle with Duck Confit and Chestnuts

Would you believe this pasta dish came together in less than half an hour?
Would you believe this pasta dish came together in less than half an hour?

In Italy, some folks eat pasta not merely every day, but twice a day.

In Tuscany, construction workers will even stop work at lunch to cook up a bowl of plain spaghetti on-site with olive oil and Parmigiano.

So writes Frances Mayes in the introduction to her new cookbook, “Pasta Veloce” (Abrams, 2023), of which I received a review copy.

Those are my kind of people. Because I love pasta — not just for its comforting taste, but its ease and versatility.

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