Category Archives: Wine

Dining At One Fish

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Reel in the warm cornbread with cultured cream and smoked trout roe at One Fish.
Reel in the warm cornbread with cultured cream and smoked trout roe at One Fish.

Last week, I went fishing — and got One Fish.

Plus a superlative meal.

One Fish Raw Bar opened in 2021 in downtown Campbell next-door to Manresa Bread, and what a find it is. Chef-Owner Trent Lidgey opened his small, fine-dining raw bar after stints as sous chef at San Francisco’s Atelier Crenn, chef de cuisine at The Lexington House in Los Gatos, and most notably, sous chef at Uni Restaurant, a modern izakaya in Boston where he oversaw the sashimi program.

In downtown Campbell.
In downtown Campbell.

The vibe is relaxed and the food meant to be shared tapas-style. There’s a small patio in front with outdoor dining available, as well as seating inside at tables and high-counter seats. There are also seats right at the chef’s counter, reserved for guests partaking of the $185-per-person 11-course sashimi tasting menu. A final option is the 5-course family-style meal ($95-per-person for the standard; $135-per-person for the premium).

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Sip, Sip, Hooray: Part 3

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The Swedish brand packages European-made wine in cans that are decorated by artists from around the world.
The Swedish brand packages European-made wine in cans that are decorated by artists from around the world.

Djuce

Wine in cans is sure having a moment. And these from Djuce are as dramatic as they get.

Founded in Stockholm, Sweden, this sustainable-wine company just expanded into the United States in Los Angeles and San Diego, and soon to arrive in San Francisco. The cans are decorated with striking, contemporary artwork from artists around the world, and filled with wine from European producers.

Cans were chosen not only because they are lighter and easier to transport, but according to the company, also because they are 28 percent more efficient to recycle and their use cuts CO2 emissions by 79 percent compared to glass.

Currently, Djuce offers 11 wines from seven regions in Europe, all sustainably farmed, certified organic, vegan, and low in sulfites.

The 2021 Meinklang Kontext, a natural orange wine.
The 2021 Meinklang Kontext, a natural orange wine.

I had a chance to sample three of them. Each can is 250ml or roughly 1 cup, which makes for a generous portion for one person or a modest pour for two people to share.

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Lyon-Style Chicken with Rosé Vinegar Sauce

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A whole cup of vinegar stars in this Lyon classic dish.
A whole cup of vinegar stars in this classic Lyon dish.

If you were to peek inside my pantry, you’d spy upwards of 10 different vinegars at all times.

That may seem excessive, but each has its purpose and distinct flavor profile. And there’s nothing like vinegar to perk up and round out a dressing, soup, stew, marinade, sauce, and even cocktails.

So, when I was asked if I wanted to be one of the first to sample the new Ponti Rose’ Wine Vinegar, I jumped at the chance.

This ninth-generation, family-owned Italian company selects local rose wine that meets its standards, then turns it into vinegar.

Ponti's new Rose’ Wine Vinegar.
Ponti’s new Rose’ Wine Vinegar.

The result is a luminous pink vinegar that’s quite sharp yet wonderfully floral, and with a pointed strawberry note.

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Hawaii Eats: NatuRe Waikiki, Oahu

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Executive Chef Nae Ogawa at the chef's counter at natuRe Waikiki.
Executive Chef Nae Ogawa at the chef’s counter at natuRe Waikiki.

Honolulu, Oahu, HI — For a truly special experience, snag a seat at the chef’s counter at natuRe Waikiki — if you can.

The two-story restaurant opened in 2022 with plenty of outdoor seating on the first floor with an a la carte menu. But the best spot in the restaurant is definitely at the 10-seat chef’s counter, where Chef Nae Ogawa and her young team hold court in the open kitchen.

I had many wonderful meals on my trip to Hawaii last week. But by far, one of the most outstanding was the tasting menu at this gem that Honolulu Magazine named “Best New Restaurant” in 2022.

To be honest, natuRe (pronounced the French way, “nah-tur) was not even on my radar. On a sun-and-sand, sandals-and-shorts kind of vacation, I wasn’t necessarily even contemplating an upscale, fine-dining dinner.

A Kumamoto oyster is one of two supplements available to the tasting menu.
A Kumamoto oyster is one of two supplements available to the tasting menu.

But friend Sarah Burchard deserves special thanks for steering me to it. The former chef at San Francisco’s Barbacco, Burchard moved to Honolulu more than six years ago to become a successful food writer. In fact, anyone planning a trip to Hawaii should check out her online site for tips on must-visit places. When she’s not writing or volunteering her time for all manner of community eco projects, she is a server at natuRe. So, when she recommended the chef’s counter there, I knew she wouldn’t steer me wrong.

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Sip, Sip, Hooray: Part 2

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Made from Monterey grapes, the 2020 Tribute Pinot Noir.
Made from Monterey grapes, the 2020 Tribute Pinot Noir.

2020 Tribute Pinot Noir

You know the Benziger name, of course, as the Sonoma winery that has been growing grapes biodynamically and organically for more than 40 years for its roster of award-winning wines.

In 2021, Chris Benziger, the youngest of the family’s seven children, embarked on his own brand, Tribute, meant to honor his iconic family and to build on his own roots.

Recently, I had a chance to sample one of its newest releases, the 2020 Tribute Pinot Noir from Monterey County. A juicy tasting wine, it exudes big notes of cherry, blackberries and strawberries with hints of leather and clove. It’s a medium body wine that is velvety on the palate.

This wine is ideal with summer salmon on the grill or pretty much any kind of pork dish, whether it be a juicy chop, kebabs or meatloaf.

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