The Arc of Michelin-Starred Press

The fantastic pretzel with caviar at Press.
The fantastic pretzel with caviar at Press.

Six years ago, when Philip Tessier was hired as executive chef-partner at Press in St. Helena, his mission was to rework the then-15-year-old restaurant that had grown into a high-end steakhouse with a fabulously deep, award-winning wine cellar.

After all, whom better to accomplish that then the first American chef to ascend the podium at the internationally renowned Bocuse d’Or, winning silver, and before that made his mark rising through the ranks at Michelin three-starred Le Bernardin in New York and The French Laundry in Yountville?

That impressive wine cellar is still there, offering the largest collection of Napa Valley wines in the world. But now, so is a Michelin star, which the restaurant received in 2022 and has held ever since.

Last winter, Press took yet another step in its transformation — completely overhauling its kitchen. Most everything now is custom. There is an Argentinian-style grill, as well as a bespoke Bonnet suite from France.

At the entrance.
At the entrance.
Michelin-starred since 2002.
Michelin-starred since 2002.
The brand-new kitchen.
The brand-new kitchen.

With the gleaming new kitchen in place, Press rolled out a new four-course prix-fixe ($150 per person; $275 with wine pairing included; or $450 with reserve pairing included) to go along with its seven-course chef’s tasting menu ($195 per person; $350 with wine pairing included, and $695 with reserve pairing included). The cuisine is now more expansive and contemporary, rooted in new American fare through a Napa Valley lens.

Last week, I dined there in the soaring, white-washed barn-like restaurant with soaring ceilings, and opted for the seven-course menu. Even mid-week, the dining room was filled with elegantly dressed patrons.

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Something Fishy — In The Best of Ways

So much flavor for so little effort. That's what this delicious swordfish dish is all about.
So much flavor for so little effort. That’s what this delicious swordfish dish is all about.

At first thought, you might think fish and fruit an odd couple.

But tomatoes, which are a classic partner, are actually fruit. Olives, too.

So, grapes not only make sense, but make magic together in this particular dish.

“Swordfish with Roasted Grapes & Green Olive Salsa” is from “Opa!” (Smith Street Books, 2025), of which I received a review copy.

It was written by Helena and Vikki Moursellas, identical twins raised in Australia who grew up with a love for Greek cuisine from their Greek grandmother.

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Savoie Has the Savoir Faire Down Pat

Savoie puts its own spin on a classic caviar service.
Savoie puts its own spin on a classic caviar service.

Tahoe City, CA — In this outdoorsy, unincorporated lakeside town of roughly 3,000 residents, where traffic lights are few, you might be surprised to learn that one restaurant — just one — actually features big-city valet parking. And it’s complimentary, no less.

But at Savoie, it’s a necessity, given that since its opening in July, diners have been clamoring for reservations as far as six weeks in advance. When the doors open on any given night, there’s usually a queue of 40 walk-ins hoping to snag a seat, too. Even before it opened, Food & Wine magazine had already dubbed it one of “the most anticipated openings of the summer.”

In fact, when I was invited in as a guest of this fine-dining restaurant last week, a camera crew from Chef’s Warehouse was in the house, filming a documentary, as part of the restaurant supply company’s inaugural behind-the-scenes series on restaurants.

The attention and accolades are no surprise, not when you realize the French-California restaurant was opened by celebrated veteran Michelin-starred chef Mark Sullivan and his wife, pastry chef Allison Sullivan.

Chef-Owners Mark and Allison Sullivan.
Chef-Owners Mark and Allison Sullivan.

The two met at the Village Pub in Woodside, which Mark opened in 2001 with the Bacchus Management Group, of which he is still a partner. He helped steer the Village Pub, and subsequent restaurants, Spruce in San Francisco, and Selby’s in Atherton, to Michelin-star fame. After leaving the Village Pub, Allison went on to work at Michelin two-starred restaurants in San Francisco: the Fifth Floor, helmed by Laurent Gras; and Masa’s in San Francisco, under the tutelage of Ron Siegel. Later, she apprenticed at Pierre Herme in Paris.

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Calling All Cauliflower Fanatics

Crispy, tender, garlicky, cheesy, lemony, and peppery.
Crispy, tender, garlicky, cheesy, lemony, and peppery.

There are few savory things that can’t be improved with the trifecta of garlic, lemon, and Parmesan.

Take cauliflower, for instance.

I’ve roasted the florets many a time with Parmesan and olive oil. But oh, that little dash of garlic powder, sprinkle of lemon zest, and squeeze of lemon juice really makes all the difference.

Try it for yourself with “Spicy Lemon Parm Cauliflower Bites.”

The recipe is from “Dig In!” (Simon Element), of which I received a review copy.

The cookbook is by Erin O’Brien, a popular digital content creator based in Los Angeles, who grew up cooking with her mom and grandmother.

It includes more than 100 recipes that take simple approaches to put food on the table that’s straightforward, comforting, and so delicious that you’ll want to cook them on the repeat.

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Shiso Fine

Grill up some skirt steak with delectable Korean flavors.
Grill up some skirt steak with delectable Korean flavors.

Admittedly, I am not the world’s greatest gardener. So, when something manages not only to survive, but thrive — and year after year — I am practically giddy.

Yup, that’s how I feel about my home-grown shiso.

When spring comes, I’m always thrilled when its green leaves start popping up anew despite me doing nothing to it all winter long.

Also known as perilla, it never ceases to charm me with its refreshing whoosh of minty-citrusy flavor that I love so much that I sometimes just plop an entire leaf into my mouth from the garden.

My backyard shiso.
My backyard shiso.

Still, I managed to restrain myself to gather enough leaves to make this delicious “Skirt Steak with Shiso-Shallot Butter.” It’s a recipe by Chef Tyler Florence that appeared in the July 2025 issue of Food & Wine magazine.

It’s a perfect dish to grill during these last days of summer or early ones of fall.

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