The Comfort of Tomatoes and Eggs

A homespun dish of eggs and tomatoes that reminds me of my dad.
A homespun dish of eggs and tomatoes that reminds me of my dad.

When I was a kid, my dad had a Sunday morning ritual of whipping up omelets for the family.

He’d pour beaten eggs into a hot pan and add canned stewed tomatoes, sometimes with a splash of soy sauce or oyster sauce, to make omelet after omelet for everyone.

Except that is, for me.

At the time, I turned up my nose at that combination, preferring my omelet instead filled with cheese. And loads of it.

Little did I realize until much later in life that my idea of an inferior omelet was actually a far superior one.

Tomatoes boast tons of umami. So, do eggs. And any Chinese condiment such as oyster sauce is a major source of that irresistible deep savory fifth taste we all crave, as well.

“Tomato Egg with Spring Onion” exemplifies that.

This dead-simple recipe is from “Jerremy Pang’s Hong Kong Kitchen” (Octopus, 2025), of which I received a review copy.

The cookbook was written by British-Chinese chef Jeremy Pang, founder of London’s School of Wok culinary school, who has appeared regularly on BBC television and radio culinary shows.

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The Arc of Michelin-Starred Press

The fantastic pretzel with caviar at Press.
The fantastic pretzel with caviar at Press.

Six years ago, when Philip Tessier was hired as executive chef-partner at Press in St. Helena, his mission was to rework the then-15-year-old restaurant that had grown into a high-end steakhouse with a fabulously deep, award-winning wine cellar.

After all, whom better to accomplish that then the first American chef to ascend the podium at the internationally renowned Bocuse d’Or, winning silver, and before that made his mark rising through the ranks at Michelin three-starred Le Bernardin in New York and The French Laundry in Yountville?

That impressive wine cellar is still there, offering the largest collection of Napa Valley wines in the world. But now, so is a Michelin star, which the restaurant received in 2022 and has held ever since.

Last winter, Press took yet another step in its transformation — completely overhauling its kitchen. Most everything now is custom. There is an Argentinian-style grill, as well as a bespoke Bonnet suite from France.

At the entrance.
At the entrance.
Michelin-starred since 2002.
Michelin-starred since 2002.
The brand-new kitchen.
The brand-new kitchen.

With the gleaming new kitchen in place, Press rolled out a new four-course prix-fixe ($150 per person; $275 with wine pairing included; or $450 with reserve pairing included) to go along with its seven-course chef’s tasting menu ($195 per person; $350 with wine pairing included, and $695 with reserve pairing included). The cuisine is now more expansive and contemporary, rooted in new American fare through a Napa Valley lens.

Last week, I dined there in the soaring, white-washed barn-like restaurant with soaring ceilings, and opted for the seven-course menu. Even mid-week, the dining room was filled with elegantly dressed patrons.

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Something Fishy — In The Best of Ways

So much flavor for so little effort. That's what this delicious swordfish dish is all about.
So much flavor for so little effort. That’s what this delicious swordfish dish is all about.

At first thought, you might think fish and fruit an odd couple.

But tomatoes, which are a classic partner, are actually fruit. Olives, too.

So, grapes not only make sense, but make magic together in this particular dish.

“Swordfish with Roasted Grapes & Green Olive Salsa” is from “Opa!” (Smith Street Books, 2025), of which I received a review copy.

It was written by Helena and Vikki Moursellas, identical twins raised in Australia who grew up with a love for Greek cuisine from their Greek grandmother.

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Savoie Has the Savoir Faire Down Pat

Savoie puts its own spin on a classic caviar service.
Savoie puts its own spin on a classic caviar service.

Tahoe City, CA — In this outdoorsy, unincorporated lakeside town of roughly 3,000 residents, where traffic lights are few, you might be surprised to learn that one restaurant — just one — actually features big-city valet parking. And it’s complimentary, no less.

But at Savoie, it’s a necessity, given that since its opening in July, diners have been clamoring for reservations as far as six weeks in advance. When the doors open on any given night, there’s usually a queue of 40 walk-ins hoping to snag a seat, too. Even before it opened, Food & Wine magazine had already dubbed it one of “the most anticipated openings of the summer.”

In fact, when I was invited in as a guest of this fine-dining restaurant last week, a camera crew from Chef’s Warehouse was in the house, filming a documentary, as part of the restaurant supply company’s inaugural behind-the-scenes series on restaurants.

The attention and accolades are no surprise, not when you realize the French-California restaurant was opened by celebrated veteran Michelin-starred chef Mark Sullivan and his wife, pastry chef Allison Sullivan.

Chef-Owners Mark and Allison Sullivan.
Chef-Owners Mark and Allison Sullivan.

The two met at the Village Pub in Woodside, which Mark opened in 2001 with the Bacchus Management Group, of which he is still a partner. He helped steer the Village Pub, and subsequent restaurants, Spruce in San Francisco, and Selby’s in Atherton, to Michelin-star fame. After leaving the Village Pub, Allison went on to work at Michelin two-starred restaurants in San Francisco: the Fifth Floor, helmed by Laurent Gras; and Masa’s in San Francisco, under the tutelage of Ron Siegel. Later, she apprenticed at Pierre Herme in Paris.

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Calling All Cauliflower Fanatics

Crispy, tender, garlicky, cheesy, lemony, and peppery.
Crispy, tender, garlicky, cheesy, lemony, and peppery.

There are few savory things that can’t be improved with the trifecta of garlic, lemon, and Parmesan.

Take cauliflower, for instance.

I’ve roasted the florets many a time with Parmesan and olive oil. But oh, that little dash of garlic powder, sprinkle of lemon zest, and squeeze of lemon juice really makes all the difference.

Try it for yourself with “Spicy Lemon Parm Cauliflower Bites.”

The recipe is from “Dig In!” (Simon Element), of which I received a review copy.

The cookbook is by Erin O’Brien, a popular digital content creator based in Los Angeles, who grew up cooking with her mom and grandmother.

It includes more than 100 recipes that take simple approaches to put food on the table that’s straightforward, comforting, and so delicious that you’ll want to cook them on the repeat.

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