Imagine jam that tastes as if peak ripe fruit were picked off the tree, then immediately cooked down before a luscious spoonful made it into your mouth a mere moment after cooling.

I think that’s the highest compliment I can give San Francisco’s Saba Jam, which tastes so clear and vivid, and comes in such inspired flavors as Blueberry Verjus, Bosenberry Beet, and Persian Lime Juniper Berry.

They’re the handiwork of Saba Parsa, an Iranian American who is a former chemical engineer-turned extraordinary jam maker.

She scours local farmers markets for the best fruit in season to make her small-batch jams using a minimum of sugar. She drops new ones only four times per year. They’re so highly regarded that they’ve racked up multiple Good Food Awards.

I had an opportunity to try samples of two of her jams: Nectarine Ginger, and Fig Ume Plum (8-ounce jars for $19.95 each).

The former is slightly chunky with bits of candied ginger, adding a subtle warmth. It tastes very much like a nectarine crumble. It would be wonderful on so many breakfast staples — be it oatmeal, plain yogurt, toast, scone or bagel. Or even drizzled over roasted squash.

The latter just floored me. It’s like plums on steroids. You get the floral, Newton-ish taste of the figs to be sure, but even more of the plums. This jam is ever so tangy but also with a wine-y, caramel-like note. It would make the ultimate plum sauce for Chinese roast duck or a wonderful glaze for roast pork. I simply can’t get enough of it.

That’s why I couldn’t resist showcasing the Fig Ume Plum Jam in these easy “Jam Jam Bars.”

The recipe is from the cookbook, “Sweet Tooth” (Clarkson Potter, 2024), by New York’s Sarah Fennel, creator of the blog, Broma Bakery.

These bar cookies couldn’t be easier to make. In a mixer, whip up the dough, sweetened with brown and granulated sugars. Two-thirds of it gets pressed into a square baking pan. Then, slather on your choice of jam. Finally, take the remaining dough and crumble it into pieces to scatter over the top. As it bakes, the dough pieces on top will spread out a little, but still leave some gaps to let the pretty color of the jam peek through.

These cookies are plenty buttery and tender, and put the fruity taste of the jam in the spotlight. While some jam cookies tend to soften too much the next day, these don’t. They stay sturdy enough to still pick up with your fingers to enjoy.

These bar cookies are the perfect canvas for any favorite jam. Of course, you already know which one mine is.

Pick up a jar or two or three of Saba Jams at the Heath Ceramics Make Good Market, 2900 18th St. in San Francisco on Dec. 6, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; and Dec. 7, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Or order on the Saba Jam website. Just note that Dec. 12 is the last day for online holiday orders.

Jam Jam Bars

(Makes 12 rectangular bars)

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

1 large egg, at room temperature

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup fruit jam or preserves of your choice

Confectioners’ sugar, for topping (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line an 8-by-8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper on all sides.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add the butter, granulated sugar, and brown sugar and beat on low speed until combined. Gradually increase the speed to medium-high and beat until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Use a silicone spatula to scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, then add the egg and vanilla extract. Beat on medium-high speed until the mixture is smooth and combined, about 30 seconds.

Add the flour, baking soda, and salt. Mix on low speed until combined and no streaks of flour remain. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl as needed.

Using your fingers, press about two-thirds of the dough into the bottom of the prepared pan. Spoon the jam on top of the dough, spreading it to the edges. Use your hands to squeeze the remaining dough into your palms, then break it apart into big and small clusters, sprinkling them all over the jam layer like a fruit crisp (some pockets of exposed jam are okay!). Bake until the top crumbles of the bar are light golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes.

Place the pan on a cooling rack to allow the bars to cool completely in the pan. Use the parchment paper to lift the bars from the pan, then transfer the bars to a cutting board, Cut the bars in half, then cut each half into sixths, creating 12 rectangular bars. Dust the top with confectioners’ sugar (if using), and serve.

From “Sweet Tooth” by Sarah Fennel

Another Sarah Fennel Recipe to Enjoy: Red Wine Brownies