Lighten the Load, Part I: Neapolitan Fish Stew

At the start of a new year, most of us want to feel a little lighter.
That could mean actually losing a few pounds. Or simply resetting the palate after one holiday after another holiday of rich, heavy foods. Or reverting back to effortless cooking after preparing one too many complicated holiday specialties. Or simply stressing less about everything in general.
Whether the desire is physical or emotional, “Neapolitan Fish Stew” will take a load off.
That’s because it’s a no-brainer to prepare, and its simple, clear yet satisfying flavors provide the verve to energize any new beginning.

This simple and healthful recipe is from “A Kitchen In Italy” (Clarkson Potter), of which I received a review copy. It’s by Mimi Thorisson, a food writer and cookbook author of Chinese and French heritages who lives in Turin, Italy. The book is lavishly photographed by her husband Oddur Thorisson, an Icelandic photographer.
The 100 recipes included are ones she makes for her family since discovering them during her more than six years in Italy. They are arranged by the seasons, from “Thick Sicilian Fava Bean Soup” in spring, and “Escarole-Stuffed Pizza” in summer to “Agnolotti Piemontese” in autumn, and “White Chocolate Pistachio Cookies” in winter.
Though this fish stew is included in the autumn chapter, it can easily be made year-round. That’s because it makes use of canned tomatoes and cooking on the stovetop, so you needn’t worry about using tasteless tomatoes or heating up the house too much.

The recipe calls for monkfish or any firm-fleshed fish fillets, so they don’t fall apart when cooking. I used ling cod, which worked like a dream.
Simply saute garlic in olive oil in a large saucepan or medium-sized Dutch oven. Add canned, chopped tomatoes and simmer. Finally, gently arrange fish fillets on top of the tomatoes with olives and capers. The recipe didn’t direct to cover the pot. However, I did, thinking that the resulting steam would help cook the fish more evenly, which I think it did. So, I added that instruction to the recipe below.
When the fish is cooked through, garnish with parsley, and serve.
How easy is that?
The dish has very Mediterranean flavors with the sweet, tangy tomatoes coupled with the briny capers and buttery olives. Thorisson compares it to pasta puttanesca — without the pasta. And that is spot-on.
The fish cooks up flaky and very moist. You’ll want to serve it with toasted or grilled bread to dunk into the delicious tomato sauce.
Even then, this dish eats light, and leaves you ready to take on a whole new year with vigor.

Neapolitan Fish Stew (Cassuola Napoletana)
(Serves 4)
2 1/4 pounds (1 kilogram) monkfish or any firm-fleshed fish fillets
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
1 1/3 pounds (600 grams) canned peeled tomatoes, chopped
16 black olives, pitted
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
A bunch of fresh parsley, chopped
Gently wash the fish fillets, pat them dry, and set aside on a plate.
In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute until golden, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook, undisturbed, until softened, about 15 minutes.
Reduce the heat to low. Add the monkfish, olives, and capers. Cover the pot and cook until fish is fully cooked, about 20 minutes. Do not overcook or the fish will fall apart. Taste and season with salt and pepper if necessary.
Top with parsley and serve.
Note: If you like it spicy, you can add crushed red pepper flakes or chopped chile pepper along with the garlic.
Adapted from “A Kitchen in Italy” by Mimi Thorisson

Another Mimi Thorisson Recipe to Enjoy: Sage and Walnut Tagliatelle

Plus: Lighten the Load, Part II: Black Garlic Butter Branzino