With its soaring ceiling and floor-to-ceiling windows, Quattro at the Four Seasons Silicon Valley in East Palo Alto has always been an elegant establishment, the type with tables spaced far enough apart that you can actually converse easily with dining companions.

After undergoing a recent refresh, its look is even more inviting with all that natural light complemented by an earth-tone decor with plenty of potted palms, caramel leather chairs, and slender brass lights on each marble table. The eye-catching artwork, “Walking on the Street,” that’s been a fixture since the restaurant opened remains there with its four figures that represent each season that appear to pivot as you do.

Along with a new look comes a new menu from Executive Chef Jacques Swart, who was appointed in January, and has refocused the Italian-Californian food to lean even more into the Italian side.

I had a chance to try the new dishes recently when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant.

Shortly after sitting down, an amuse arrived — bruschetta with a slab of Parmigiano and finely chopped tomatoes that were rather lackluster in taste, which was surprising considering that it’s peak local tomato season now.

Far better was the house-made olive focaccia, warm squares that were crispy on the outside and airy-chewy within.

Knowing I was a Pinot Noir fan, our server poured me a sample of the wonderful 2023 DuMol Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley, redolent of black cherries and black berries with a deep earthiness and a lingering finish. Quattro is one of the few restaurants in California, I’m told, that carry this wine regularly. In fact, you can experience it and more at a special DuMol wine dinner Aug. 28 at Quattro.

Strawberry Bellini ($32) may sound like a cocktail, but it’s actually an appetizer with roasted beets, strawberries, arugula, and tomatoes finished with peach vinaigrette and finely chopped pistachios, all built around a ball of burrata dusted with freeze-dried strawberry powder. The taste is tangy, fruity, and fresh overall. There is also a fruity sweetness to it, which some diners might prefer at lunch instead of dinner. Fortunately, you can order it then, too.

Pollo croccante ($28) is a pretty rendition of boneless fried chicken that comes dotted with fresh flowers in a contemporary earthenware bowl. The chicken is moist but not crackling crisp. It more resembles breaded chicken possibly because the weight of the truffle emulsion and shower of Parmesan on top turns it soft. Dig to the bottom of the bowl and there are peppery arugula leaves underneath it all.

You can add Wagyu short rib to the house-made tagliatelle with mushrooms ($32) for an additional $15. Saucy like stroganoff, the pasta is full of mushrooms and tender slivers of short rib. It’s a lusty dish full of earthiness and umami.

The grilled branzino ($55) hardly ever leaves the menu, though, it’s accompaniments change with the seasons. It’s easy to see why. The branzino fillets are cooked masterfully — with crisp skin and moist flesh. It’s cooked simply, and arrayed atop beluga lentils, cherry tomatoes, and pine nuts. It is the Mediterranean personified.

Gamberoni ($45) are grilled jumbo shrimp arrayed like tiles atop black rice that’s cooked sous vide to ensure the grains are tender through and through. With a lobster-like texture, the shrimp are done up in a subtly spicy Arrabbiata tomato sauce.

Roasted baby zucchini and eggplant ($38) can be a light vegetarian entree or in this case a nice side to the fish and shrimp. Custardy soft in texture, the eggplant boasts a nice smokiness, too. The veggies are arranged over creamy, thick yogurt, seasoned with mint, garlic and citrus.

For dessert, there is the opportunity to go healthy with a fruit bowl ($14), done up with blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, and orange segments finished with pomegranate arils and pine nuts.

Or indulge a little more with the strawberry cloud ($15), which sports whipped honey-ricotta mousse, amaretto-orange ice cream, and macerated strawberries all arranged atop a crunchy, round almond biscotti. True to its name, it’s light tasting and none too sweet.

Or go all out with the playfully named Tirami-Choux ($16). Pastry Sous Chef Courtney Persichitte first created this riff on tiramisu for Women’s History Month in March. It proved so popular that it’s still on the menu. No wonder, as it’s an airy cream puff filled with whipped Irish cream ganache and coffee-soaked ladyfingers, then topped with fluffy Irish cream mascarpone mousse. It’s very coffee forward, making for the perfect evening pick-me-up.

The last bites are cocoa-dusted truffles, which were some of the best I’ve had in a while, thanks to the very smooth texture and high quality of the chocolate.

Now, that’s the way you want to end a meal.