Memories of Mulligatawny Soup
During summers in high school, I’d work in my dad’s department at Greyhound in San Francisco, where he was a bookkeeper.
It was tedious work to be sure, filing papers and ticket receipts by hand, hour after hour, (yes, before dawn of the digital age).
The highlight of the day was always lunch, when my dad and I would walk a few yards outside to go to a cafe that catered to the in-a-rush office crowd.
It was cafeteria-style, where you took your tray down the line until you got to the station from which you wanted to order. I always held out to the end, where the roster of rotating homemade soups could be found hidden under stainless steel lids. It proved my introduction to the wide, wide world of soups. There was the familiar minestrone and clam chowder, of course, but also Mexican wedding soup, Greek Avogolemo soup, and Indian mulligatawny, all of which were new to me and dazzled with their distinctive, warm flavors.
That’s why one spoonful of this golden “Mulligatawny Soup” prompted a flood of wonderful memories of sitting at a cafe table with my dad, discussing the food we were enjoying as he’d ask “How’s things?”
The recipe is from the new “My Indian Kitchen” (Figure 1), of which I received a review copy, by Vikram Vij, the celebrated chef and restaurateur behind the groundbreaking Vij’s, which opened in 1994 and introduced Vancouver, BC to contemporary, innovative Indian cuisine. It was written with Jennifer Muttoo, a hospitality and marketing expert.
This collection of 80 recipes is designed for the home-cook of any level to bring a little Indian flair into their own kitchen. Savor everything from “Indian French Onion Soup,” “Naan Pizza,” and “Gunpowder Prawns” to “Duck Vindaloo” and “Chocolate Samosas with Spiced Ganache.”
For this mulligatawny, chicken stock gets transformed with garlic, fresh ginger, curry powder, cumin, coriander, turmeric, red chili powder, onion, carrot, and a whole chopped apple. Red lentils get stirred in. As they cook, they will plump up, then break down like dal, thickening the soup.
Coconut milk is added to create a velvety, creamy texture. Cooked, shredded chicken makes it more substantial.
Ladle into bowls, garnish with cilantro, and serve alongside rice, naan or your favorite flatbread.
Like a hug in a bowl, this soup has a coziness about it with its earthy curry taste. The bits of apple here and there add a surprise burst of juicy, wine-y sweetness that’s irresistible.
This soup is also the perfect vehicle for any leftover Thanksgiving turkey in the fridge or freezer. Swap it in for the chicken and you’re sure to start a new after-holiday tradition.
As for me, every time I make this flavorful soup, I’ll always think of my dad and those shared summers long ago.
Mulligatawny Soup
(Serves 6)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon grated ginger
1 carrot, chopped
1 apple, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon red chili powder
1 cup red lentils, rinsed
4 cups chicken stock
2 cups cooked shredded chicken
1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk
Salt and pepper, to taste
Chopped cilantro, for garnish
Rice or naan, to serve
Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onions, garlic and ginger and saute for 5 to 7 minutes, until onions are translucent.
Stir in carrots and apples and saute for 3 to 5 minutes, until they start to soften. Stir in curry powder, cumin, coriander, turmeric and chili powder. Cook for another minute, until fragrant.
Stir in lentils, coating them in the spices. Pour in stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, until lentils are tender.
Add chicken and coconut milk and stir well to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer for another 10 minutes to allow flavors to meld.
To serve, ladle soup into bowls, Garnish with cilantro and serve hot with rice or naan.
From “My New Indian Kitchen” by Vikram Vij
Enjoy More Recipes From Another Figure 1 Imprint — My “East Bay Cooks”: Braised Lamb Shanks with Sweet-and-Sour Kumquats
And: Short Ribs with Citrus-Olive Herb Salad
