Author Archives: foodgal

A New Texture in Chocolate Bars

Taza Chocolate of Somerville, Mass. offers a different taste sensation in chocolate bars. Using certified organic chocolate grown on small farms in Costa Rica, Mexico, and the Dominican Republic, the bars have a distinctive texture from traditional Mexican stone grinding that’s quite different than any other chocolate bars on the market. The result is a bar that’s very minimally processed.

A 3-ounce bar is about $6 and available on the company’s web site, as well as at Mollie Stone’s in San Francisco, Rainbow Grocery in San Francisco, and Yali’s Cafe in Berkeley.

I’ll use my patented scale of 1 to 10 lip-smackers, with 1 being the “Bleh, save your money” far end of the spectrum; 5 being the “I’m not sure I’d buy it, but if it was just there, I might nibble some” middle-of-the-road response; and 10 being the “My gawd, I could die now and never be happier, because this is the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth” supreme ranking.

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New Thomas Keller and Hiro Sone Books

Thomas Keller's new book due to be released this fall

Molecular gastronomy fans will be glad to know that Thomas Keller’s long-awaited new cookbook on sous vide cooking will be published by Artisan in November. It will feature an introduction by San Francisco author and noted food scientist, Harold McGee.

“Under Pressure,” though geared for the professional cook, no doubt will provide a fascinating look at this technique that’s now widely used by top restaurants around the world. In sous vide, food is vaccum-sealed in a bag, then cooked in water at a precise temperature below simmering to seal in flavors and juices.

Thomas KellerAlthough Keller of French Laundry fame had hoped to market a vaccum-seal system for the home, he now says that’s unlikely because the device would be too large and cumbersome for most home kitchens. Instead, he may market an immersion circulation system that would allow for more precise sous vide cooking at home.

Fellow chef Hiro Sone, of Terra in St. Helena and Ame in San Francisco, also is hard at work on a new cookbook with his wife and trained pastry chef, Lissa Doumani. His last book, “Terra: Cooking from the Heart Of Napa Valley,” was published seven years ago. Read more

Top Chefs Teach Top Classes

He's backkkk -- Marcel from Season 2

“Top Chef” fans lucky enough to be living in New York or visiting there soon will be happy to know some of their favorite contestants will be teaching demonstration classes at the Culinary Institute of America at Astor Center in Manhattan’s East Village.

Marcel Vigneron, whom fans loved to jeer and nickname “Wolverine” because of his ‘do, will be teaching Aug. 4. He’s followed by Tre Wilcox on Aug. 18; Dale Talde on Aug. 25; Stephanie Izard, this season’s winner, on Sept. 8; and Richard Blais on Sept. 15.

Each class is limited to 36 participants. Price is $195 per person.

Is he making another foam?

The 100th Anniversary of Umami

Chef Kunio Tokuoka of Kyoto Kitcho in Japan serves a candle-lit, show-stopping appetizer featuring umami-rich ingredients such as kombu simmered beef, spiny lobster with bonito, and savory egg yolk custard with somked chicken mousse/Parmigiano-Reggiano

You know sweet, sour, salty and bitter. But do you know umami?

You do if you’ve enjoyed tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, anchovies, mushrooms, cured ham, aged beef, and miso soup.

Those are just some of the ingredients or dishes that are high in umami, otherwise known as the “fifth flavor.” Often described as tasting “savory”  or “delicious,” umami was discovered 100 years ago by Japanese scientist Dr. Kikunae Ikeda who studied the taste of kombu dashi (kelp soup stock).

Last week, chefs and scientists gathered in San Francisco for a one-day seminar on umami, followed by a four-course lunch spotlighting that savory flavor. The event was organized by the non-profit Umami Information Center (which is funded by various food companies) to mark the centennial anniversary of umami’s discovery.

Hiro Sone's umami-rich ginger-poached shrimp and watermelon salad with lemongrass vinaigrette made with a touch of Asian fish sauce

Glutamate (glutamic acid), the most common amino acid we consume, is what produces umami. Although we tend to blanch when we hear the words “monosodium glutamate” (glutamate with salt), glutamate is a naturally occurring substance in many foods. “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome” (a supposed reaction to eating too much MSG-laced food) has been largely debunked, says Gary Beauchamp, director of the Monell Chemical Senses Center.

“The idea that glutamate could be poison is ludicrous,” he says. Indeed, human milk is much higher in glutamate than cow’s milk.

What glutamate does is make many things taste so much better by adding more complexity and mouth fullness.

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Nursing Home Food That’s Fit For Foodies

Would you choose chicken Marsala #1?

During more than a decade of food writing, I’ve had the pleasure of judging a number of notable food contests, including the Gilroy Garlic Cook-Off, the Castroville Artichoke Festival Cook-Off, the short-lived “Food Fight” TV show competition, and of course, the Pillsbury Bake-Off.

So when I told my friends that I had been asked recently to judge a cook-off at a San Jose nursing home, I got more than a few odd looks.

But I have a soft spot for the work nursing homes do, as my late Mom spent her last weeks in one. I’m familiar with the challenges these facilities face, given the dietary and budgetary constraints they must work with.

Or would you choose chicken Marsala #2?

So I was intrigued when Cindy Dahl, a registered dietitian with Plum Healthcare Group and a former San Diego restaurateur, asked me to be on the judging panel for the “Top Plum Chef” competition. Cooks from Plum Healthcare Group’s 16 California facilities would battle by cooking a specific dish. The winners advance to the next round, where they cook another specific dish. The two finalists then will square off in a cook-off in San Diego for a chance to win $500, a set of knives, a plaque, and bragging rights.

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