Category Archives: Chefs

Revved Up for Ramen, Part II: Kisetsu Ramen Pop-Up at Cyrus

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Pork shoyu ramen at the pop-up at Michelin-starred Cyrus.
Pork shoyu ramen at the pop-up at Michelin-starred Cyrus.

Ramen originated as a humble, working-class dish meant to be cheap and eaten in a hurry.

But when a Michelin-starred Wine Country restaurant debuts a ramen pop-up in its sleek, glass and concrete building with a view of vineyards, you know it will be anything but that.

That is definitely the case at this winter kisetsu ramen pop-up at Cyrus in Geyserville, which I happened to catch on its inaugural night last Thursday.

The pop-up, available Thursday through Saturday evenings, accommodates 12 diners max in the front portion of the lounge. The rest of the lounge remains the starting point for diners indulging in the full tasting-menu progressive experience at $325 per person, which takes about 3 hours.

In contrast, the ramen menu is $75 for three courses, which my husband and I finished in about 75 minutes.

The entrance.
The entrance.
Quite the setting for a bowl of ramen.
Quite the setting for a bowl of ramen.
The ramen menu.
The ramen menu.

The pop-up will last at least through winter. If it proves popular, it may stick around longer.

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Revved Up For Ramen, Part I: HiroNori

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Shoyu ramen with added broccolini at HiroNori.
Shoyu ramen with added broccolini at HiroNori.

I’m sure I’m not the only one cranking up the heat in the early morning, bundling up in warm sweaters all day, and craving mightily a big bowl of steamy ramen as the sun sets.

So, it’s no wonder that I found my way recently to HiroNori.

Named for friends Hiro Igarashi and Nori Akaska, they opened their first location in Los Angeles in 2017. Two years later, it was even mentioned in the Michelin Guide. It now boasts 16 locations throughout California, including three in Silicon Valley: Cupertino, San Mateo, and Santa Clara.

It was the latter location that I visited on an early weeknight, where a steady stream of folks getting off work, as well as delivery drivers, were picking up to-go orders.

It’s no-cash payment with a 20 percent service charge is automatically added to your tab.

HiroNori was founded by two friends.
HiroNori was founded by two friends.
The Santa Clara location.
The Santa Clara location.

Don’t let the tarps on the walls deter you, as the place is getting a new interior paint job in the coming days. The dining room may be pretty bare bones, but it’s done up in stylish, wooden slat stools at blond wood tables.

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Tuck Into Tagliatelle — With Korean-Style Ragu

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Italian tagliatelle with a tomato-less ragu that gets a Korean twist.
Italian tagliatelle with a tomato-less ragu that gets a Korean twist.

You may know gochujang, the fiery red fermented Korean chili paste.

But perhaps lesser known are its compatriots: doenjang, fermented soybean paste; and ganjang, a thin, dark soy sauce.

These three fermented pastes and sauces are essential building blocks in Korean cooking, according to Mingoo Kang.

The Seoul-born Kang should know. He’s chef-owner of Mingles in Seoul, which not only holds two Michelin stars, but was named one of Asia’s “50 Best Restaurants.”

In his cookbook, “Jang” (Artisan, 2024), of which I received a review copy, he explores how these three ingredients are integral to his heritage and his cooking.

The book was written with assistance from Joshua David Stein, a New York City cookbook author and Nadia Cho, who has been a liaison for chefs and journalists to Korean food and culture.

“Jang,” which rhymes with “song,” showcases more than 60 recipes, some traditional and others more unconventional. They run the gamut from “Ganjang Granola Yogurt” and ‘Ssamjang Cacio e Pepe” to “Yangnyeom Chicken (Korean Fried Chicken)” and “Doenjang Vanilla Creme Brulee.”

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Where’s the Cumin?

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Fragrant and irresistible lamb pizza, made even better with cumin.
Fragrant and irresistible lamb pizza, made even better with cumin.

When I spied this recipe for “Xi’an Famous Pizza” that was inspired by the mouth-watering Chinese food served at the family-owned New York institution, Xi’an Famous Foods, one thought came to mind immediately:

Where’s the cumin?

This pizza was originally a collaboration between Paulie Gee’s pizzeria in Brooklyn, which created this popular lamb-topped pizza with Xi’an Famous Foods’ spicy, umami bomb chili crisp drizzled over the top.

But anyone like myself who’s ever dined at one of the locations of this casual, no-frills Chinese restaurant surely can’t forget the deep earthy warmth of the cumin-scented lamb that adorns its hand-ripped noodles or gets stuffed burger-style into tender flatbread.

So, when I made this pizza, there was no way I was going to leave out the cumin.

The recipe is from “Pizza From the Heart” (Union Square & Co.), of which I received a review copy. It was written by Paulie Gee and Mary Ann Giannone, founder’s of Paulie Gee’s, which now boasts locations in Chicago, Baltimore and Ohio, too. It was written with assistance from food writer, Sarah Zorn.

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A Taste of Eastern Europe at Dacha

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Lamb chops with eggplant, pita, and spicy chile condiment at Dacha.
Lamb chops with eggplant, pita, and spicy chile condiment at Dacha.

Even if you didn’t know that Dacha is an Eastern European term for a second house that’s all about gathering and relaxing, you would feel those sentiments the moment you walk in the doors of this San Francisco restaurant.

Co-founded by married couple, Katya Skye and Suki Skye, and friend Tanya Ivanovich, the Lower Nob Hill restaurant just celebrated its second anniversary in November.

Proudly queer-owned and female-empowered, it boasts a decidedly warm, welcoming, and feminine vibe, as I found when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant last week.

The inviting dining room.
The inviting dining room.
The back of the dining room.
The back of the dining room.

It’s all in the little touches: The bud vases and candles on each table. The faux fireplace that creates a cozy feel. The homey bookcase with shelves filled with plants, books, and framed photos. And the floral wallpaper, free feminine products, hand lotion, and sweetly etched mirrors in the bathrooms.

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