Category Archives: Chefs

Panettone Scones for the Holidays

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These scones are so buttery, flaky and fluffy, plus redolent of candied citrus and layers of almond paste.
These scones are so buttery, flaky and fluffy, plus redolent of candied citrus and layers of almond paste.

Imagine waking up on Christmas morning to the aroma of buttery, almond-scented, candied citrus-studded scones turning lusciously golden in the oven.

“Panettone Scones” were made for leisurely enjoyment alongside a cup of coffee or tea on a lazy, holiday morning with loved ones gathered around.

This festive recipe is from “Baking for the Holidays: 50+ Treats for a Festive Season”‘ (Chronicle Books), of which I received a review copy.

The new book is by Sarah Kieffer, creator of The Vanilla Bean Blog, and originator of the the pan-banging method for baking cookies that’s detailed in her previous cookbook, “100 Cookies: The Baking Book for Every Kitchen, with Classic Cookies, Novel Treats, Brownies, Bars, and More” (Chronicle Books, 2020).

As the name implies, her newest book features more than 50 baked treats perfect for celebrations, including “Nutella Star Bread,” “Coffee-Cardamom Monkey Bread,” “Bittersweet Chocolate Tart with Irish Cream,” and “Coconut-Cardamom Cupcakes.”

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Dining Outside at La Toque

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Roasted John Dory with foamed apple broth at La Toque.
Roasted John Dory with foamed apple broth at La Toque.

La Toque boasts a couple of notable distinctions.

First, it’s one of only two restaurants in the town of Napa that holds a Michelin star. (Kenzo being the other one).

Second, it’s one of only two restaurants in that city to require proof of vaccination for all patrons entering the restaurant, no matter where they are seated. (The other is Morimoto Napa.)

Third, its entire staff is vaccinated.

If you’re at all skittish about dining at a restaurant these days, then La Toque may be a reassuring option for you.

That’s what I found when my husband and I dined there earlier this month. We actually sat at a table on the outside terrace. As Chef Ken Frank explained, though, some diners may not consider this “outside” enough, because the heated terrace with a roaring fireplace has a tight awning overhead, plus tall, slatted windows that for the most part are closed during chilly winter evenings. Because the tables are well spaced apart, and the staff approaches the tables masked, plus patrons are asked to don masks if they get up from their seats, it feels as safe as it can in these still rather precarious times.

Chef Ken Frank with white truffle in hand.
Chef Ken Frank with white truffle in hand.

Hot towels are brought to the table after you’re seated. There’s also a bottle of hand sanitizer on each table. Both are thoughtful touches.

Choose from the a la carte menu, a chef’s vegetable tasting menu ($98), or a chef’s tasting menu ($175) with wine pairings ($95). The latter is what we went with.

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Christina Tosi’s Take on Ted Lasso Biscuits

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Pastry Chef Christina Tosi's version of the "Ted Lasso'' biscuits are even better than the original.
Pastry Chef Christina Tosi’s version of the “Ted Lasso” biscuits are even better than the original.

If you’re experiencing “Ted Lasso” withdrawal like me, there’s only one thing that can assuage it.

And that’s baking a batch of buttery biscuits, otherwise known in the States as shortbread cookies.

You’ll remember I tried my hand at the official “Ted Lasso Biscuit Recipe,” which were wonderful and super easy to make.

But what tops it is Pastry Chef Christina Tosi’s version.

The founder of the sugary phenomenon known as Milk Bar, Tosi is a Lasso fan, and recounts hilariously in this Bloomberg story how she would rewind episodes to meticulously study just how everyone’s favorite soccer coach made his biscuits.

The recipe she came up with takes a couple of liberties that definitely enhance the original. Don’t get me wrong; the original recipe turns out shortbread that’s crisp on the edges, tender within, and incredibly melt-in-your-mouth buttery delicious. They are good, basic, and classic.

But hers go beyond that, keeping everything you love about shortbread, but refining it to make it utterly exceptional.

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That’s A Spicy Chicken & ‘Nduja Meatballs

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The surprise of 'nduja in these chicken meatballs gives them a sweet-spicy taste.
The surprise of ‘nduja in these chicken meatballs gives them a sweet-spicy taste.

Mama Mia, that’s a spicy meatball!

But don’t fear, these are not throat-throttling fiery. Instead, they are just hot enough, with peppery warmth and a kiss of sweetness, thanks to ‘nduja, the Italian spreadable salami seasoned with roasted Calabrian chili peppers.

“Chicken & ‘Nduja Meatballs” is from the new cookbook, “Italian American: Red Sauce Classics and New Essentials” (Clarkson Potter), of which I received a review copy.

The book, written in conjunction with food writer Jamie Feldmar, is by Angie Rito and Scott Tacinelli, the married chefs behind Michelin-starred Don Angie in New York City.

Indeed, these are not rigidly Italian recipes that haven’t changed in centuries, but ones that reflect the comforting home-style fare that Italians made their own after immigrating to this country. At Don Angie, those lusty, flavorful red sauce-dishes get even more playfully and vibrantly updated.

You’re sure to find yourself licking your chops over recipes for “Sicilian Pizza Rolls,” “Polenta Gnocchi with Rosemary, Honey & Toasted Sesame,” “Eggplant Parm Pinwheel Lasagna,” and “Tre Latte Olive Oil Cake.”

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Chewy Ginger Spice Cookies with Ras El Hanout

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Chewy ginger cookies with the depth of ras el hanout.
Chewy ginger cookies with the depth of ras el hanout.

After seasoning a lamb dish spectacularly, my leftover ras el hanout had been languishing forlornly in my pantry.

Remnants of this aromatic and punchy Moroccan spice blend were badly in need of a purpose and home.

Thankfully, the ideal one arrived in the form of “Chewy Ginger Spice Cookies with Ras El Hanout.”

Ras El Hanout is Arabic for “top shelf.” Like liquor at a bar, it connotes the best a mixologist or spice shop owner has to offer.

It’s a blend that can consist of more than a dozen spices, including cardamom, cumin, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, ginger, coriander, peppercorns, paprika, fenugreek, turmeric, fennel seeds, aniseed, and galangal.

I’ve always associated it with savory cooking. But this clever cookie recipe demonstrates just how well it takes to sweet preparations, as well.

The recipe is from the new cookbook, “Flavors of the Sun: The Sahadi’s Guide to Understanding, Buying, and Using Middle Eastern Ingredients” (Chronicle Books), of which I received a review copy.

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