Category Archives: Chocolate

Chocolates From New Orleans

Candy cane white chocolate truffles

When it comes to New Orleans, it’s easy to think of gumbo, crawfish, oysters, pralines, and red beans & rice.

Chocolate might not be the first thing that comes to mind, but it might be after you taste Sucre chocolates, which are handmade in small batches, often with local, homegrown ingredients.

Joel Dondis, who worked with the Brennan family at Mr. B’s and was a sous chef at Emeril’s, is the founder. Tariq Hanna, a native of Nigeria who opened his first pastry shop at age 24 in Detroit, is the executive pastry chef.

Their cafe on Magazine Street turns out pastries, specialty cakes, French macarons, gelato and assorted chocolates.

Recently, I had the chance to try a sample of Sucre’s holiday “Sugar & Spice” collection of bonbons.

I’ll use my patented scale of 1 to 10 lip-smackers, with 1 being the “Bleh, save your money” far end of the spectrum; 5 being the “I’m not sure I’d buy it, but if it was just there, I might nibble some” middle-of-the-road response; and 10 being the “My gawd, I could die now and never be happier, because this is the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth” supreme ranking.

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Cocoa-Marzipan Pound Cake For the Ages

Cocoa-marzipan pound cake to wind down the year with.

I’m not ready for Christmas nor for the end of 2009.

But I’m ready for cake.

Is it me or has this year just raced by at hyperspeed?

It feels like it should be May or July at the very latest, not December, for gosh sakes.

I remember how when I was little, summer dragged on forever — but in a good way, of course. Now, hours and days zoom by, and before I know it, I’m planted squarely on a new calendar page, wondering how I got there and how the dates have already filled up so fast when I’ve barely taken a breath.

It may be a cliche that “Time flies when you get older.” But I’m feeling the years when I think 2009 is almost over — day by day disappearing, just like that, with nothing I can do about it.

That’s why I need cake.

The recipe makes enough to share.

To be sure, cake is always welcome. At least in my world.

With one forkful, it recalls the past with candles, frosting, party hats and chirpy, sing-song wishes. And it beckons the future with its sweet promises of good tidings to come.

Cake makes time stand still, at least for a moment, as we sink our teeth into something airy, festive and special that makes everything else around us disappear.

I can’t stop 2009 from coming to a close all too soon.

But I can give you cake that will make time slow to a welcome crawl long enough for you enjoy a nice, thick slice.

”Cocoa-Marzipan Pound Cake” is such a cake. It’s by esteemed pastry chef and blogger, David Lebovitz, and it’s from his book, “The Great Book of Chocolate” (Ten Speed Press).

It contains one of my all-time favorite baking ingredients: almond paste, which gives it a lightness and delicacy not found in most denser pound cakes.

Look at the color of this cocoa powder.

It also contains one of my new favorite ingredients: E. Guittard Cocoa Rouge. You can use any unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder in this cake. But when I spied this so-called rare red cocoa powder at Sur La Table, I just had to fork over $8 for the 8-ounce can to take it home to play around with.

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Orange Krispys and Winners of Food Gal Contest Announced

Find crunchy, airy honeycomb candy inside.

A new See’s Candies confection has rolled into town just in time for autumn.

Orange Krispys can be found online or at any See’s store. An 8-ounce box of individually wrapped chocolates is $7.80

I’ll use my patented scale of 1 to 10 lip-smackers, with 1 being the “Bleh, save your money” far end of the spectrum; 5 being the “I’m not sure I’d buy it, but if it was just there, I might nibble some” middle-of-the-road response; and 10 being the “My gawd, I could die now and never be happier, because this is the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth” supreme ranking.

New Orange Krispys.

See’s Orange Krispys: Squares of airy, crisp honeycombs flavored with orange are enrobed in dark chocolate, then wrapped up in shiny orange foil bags. They’re a fun little treat for fall or even Halloween. The bright citrus flavor is lollipop-sweet. I wish it had a little bit more orange rind flavor to lend a slightly more bitter edge. Five pieces equal 190 calories. Rating: 6 lip-smackers.

Speaking of chocolate, there sure are a lot of you who can’t get enough of the stuff. Nearly 40 of you entered the Food Gal milk chocolate contest with the Amano Artisan Chocolate prize of two milk chocolate bars and one dark chocolate one.

So many of you had such wonderful responses to the statement, “Milk chocolate is…,” that it was hard to pick just one winner. So hard, in fact, that I’m adding two prizes. First place still gets the Amano chocolates. But I’ve added second-place and third-place winners, who will each receive a cookbook from my vast collection.

Without further adieu, here are the winners:

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Magical Masa’s

California caviar with blini perfection.

For more than a quarter century, Masa’s in San Francisco has not only survived, but thrived at the top echelon of fine-dining in the Bay Area.

That’s quite the achievement when you consider that the restaurant has weathered the loss of its founding chef, Masataki Kobayashi, whose slaying still remains unsolved; the departure of successor Chef Julian Serrano to Picasso in Las Vegas; and the loss of Chef Ron Siegel to the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in San Francisco.

Since 2004, though, the venerable restaurant has been in good hands with Executive Chef Gregory Short, a former sous chef at the French Laundry in Yountville.

In this dire economy, with diners leery of splurging too often — if at all — Masa’s has not been immune from a drop in clientele. But as it has always done, it’s managed to roll with the times.

A new, less expensive three-course prix fixe was added this year for $65 to go along with the regular $95 five-course and $155 nine-course options. And if the recent Tuesday night when I was invited to dine with a group of other food writers is any indication, business is definitely on the upswing. On this weeknight, the dining room was almost full. And the experience was as divine as always.

No matter how much you spend, Masa’s always delivers a special experience from the moment you walk into the striking dining room with its dark brown walls, deep red drum lights, and stark white tables. You can’t help but feel ensconced in stylish, warm elegance.

Spot prawn bisque and grilled spot prawn to whet the appetite.

Short sent out two amuses: A creamy, buttery spot prawn bisque alongside a crisp, smoky grilled spot prawn. Next came a quenelle of California white sturgeon caviar with Marchall Farms creme fraiche and the lightest, tenderest tiny blini ever.

We were allowed to choose five courses from any of the menus. I started with “A Composition of Summer Figs,” which were grilled, marinated, and made into marmalade. A sliver of crisp, dehydrated fennel, and a dollop of creamy, salty Roquefort completed this edible still life.

Figs three ways.

Next, I enjoyed sweet basil agnolotti, enriched with white corn polenta with creamy mascarpone, and tossed with delicate, peeled orbs of toybox tomatoes that made me wish summer was still here.

Plump agnolotti with mascarpone and peeled toybox tomatoes.

Beeler’s Ranch Duroc pork rib-eye was meaty, dense, and rich tasting. Poached Pippin apples lent an aromatic autumn touch.

Heritage pork rib-eye.

Pastry Chef John McKee, former co-owner of La Seine Bakery in San Francisco and former executive pastry chef of Noe Valley Bread and Baking Company in San Francisco, has a most creative touch.

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Zanotto’s Monthly Wine Dinners — A Deal If There Ever Was One

Chicken with sage, figs, and pancetta -- served at a supermarket.

Imagine a six-course dinner with six wine pairings — for all of $35 per person.

You don’t have to don fancy duds to enjoy it, either. But you do have to make reservations early, as it sells out faster than you can uncork a bottle of Chardonnay.

Zanotto’s Family Market in San Jose’s Rose Garden neighborhood may very well have the best wine tasting deal around.

The family-run supermarket, which has been in business since 1967, offers the wine dinner every last Wednesday of each month. Tickets go on sale three weeks before, and usually sell out within the first week. Indeed, since the store started hosting these dinners 30 months ago, 29 have sold out.

“We just wanted to create a casual learning experience with great food and wine,” says store Manager Fred Zanotto.

Wednesday was always the store’s slowest day, Fred Zanotto explains. So, he decided to start holding wine tastings to try to entice more shoppers into the store. They proved so successful that he decided to add dinner to it, too.

It's almost a sell-out crowd.

Picture a neighborhood block party held inside a grocery store. That’s what this fun, lively dinner is like, where so many folks are regulars, attending each and every one.

Tables are set up inside and out (except for the winter) to hold 237 people (129 in winter). Folks, who have purchased tickets ahead of time at the store or over the phone, start lining up early by the ice cream freezers to get the best pick of seats, which are first-come, first-serve. Reserved seats are only available if you have a party of six or more.

The tables are draped with floral cloths that can be purchased in the store. The food, served family-style, is arrayed on pretty, rustic platters, which also can be purchased at the store. Fred Zanotto’s two sisters-in-law, who normally man the store’s deli, create the food to pair with the wines. Many of the ingredients — you guessed it — can be purchased at the store.

Cutlery and plates are of the plastic variety. And you get only one wine glass. But that just adds to the informal charm of the event.

DeRose Vineyards was featured at the September wine dinner.

The wineries featured each month are from all over the world. But six months of the year are dedicated to spotlighting local wineries.

The wine dinner I attended in September featured DeRose Vineyards of Hollister. The winery has 100 acres of vines, including 40 acres that are dry-farmed. Those vines, which get no water, produce intensely fruity wines, says winemaker Pat DeRose.

The wines poured that evening included the Parrone 2007 Sparkling, DeRose Chardonnay 2006, Continental Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, Nick DeRose Sr. Zinfandel 2006, and the Negrette 2006. The latter, made from 115-year-old vines, is such a rarity these days that even in its native France, there are less than 100 acres grown there today. DeRose grows 10 acres that are dry-farmed. The result is a wine bursting with jammy plum and berry flavors, and gentle tannins.

Zanotto’s also provides recipes to take home from each event. Dinner that night was as follows:

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