Category Archives: Enticing Events

Titillating Tomatoes

German pink tomatoes. Photograph by Victor Schrager.

When I leaf through the pages of the glorious looking new book, “The Heirloom Tomato, From Garden to Table” (Bloomsbury), I fairly blush.

I’m just going to come out and say it: This is tomato porn.

Rippling, curvy, plump, and with bodacious glistening seed sacks, tomatoes have never looked so utterly sensual as they do in this book written by gardener, seed savor and heirloom produce advocate, Amy Goldman, and photographed by the incomparable Victor Schrager, whose works have graced the Museum of Modern Art in New York.Â

Talk about tomato on tomato action; wait until you see these photos of half a dozen beefsteak tomatoes piled pyramid-style on top of one another, with each a different glorious color and size. It’s tomato as high art. It’s tomato as sex object. It’s tomato beauty you can’t stop staring at.

Thankfully, though, you don’t have to hide this book under your bed or pull it out only when nobody’s looking. This can proudly grace your coffee-table. And anybody who grows tomatoes _ even I, who can barely keep my plants alive half the time _ will lust after the beauties in this book.

Goldman produces hundreds of tomato varieties on her farm in New York’s Hudson Valley. She offers growing advice, as well as information on dozens of varieties, including what shape and color fruit they produce, what the flavor is like, what the texture is like, and what its origins are. Fifty-five recipes are included in the book, as well as more than 200 of those luscious photographs.

Cherry tomato focaccia. Photo by Victor Schrager. Recipe follows.Â

Yearning for more tomatoes? Head to Sutro’s at the Cliff House in San Francisco on Aug. 13 for a very special tomato dinner. Guest Chef Ron Siegel of the Ritz-Carlton Dining Room in San Francisco, and his pastry chef, Alexander Espiritu, will be on hand to create a four-course dinner that will showcase the organic, heirloom tomatoes grown by Cliff House General Manager Ralph Burgin on his family’s Sonoma farm. Think grilled skirt steak with tomato compote, and tomato tart tatin with yogurt mint sorbet.

The dinner is $55 a person ($80 with wine pairings). A portion of proceeds will benefit the non-profit Community Alliance with Family Farmers, which fosters family-scale agriculture.

Sutro’s Chef de Cuisine Brian O’Connor also will be featuring heirloom tomatoes in dishes on the daily summer menu in an “Ultomato” celebration.

At PlumpJack Cafe in San Francisco, Executive Chef Rick Edge gets into the tomato spirit, too, with a four-course tasting menu featuring lovely heirlooms. The tasting menu, $45 per person ($21 more with wine pairings), will run through the end of September or when the tomatoes run out. Dishes include seared day boat scallops with golden tomato vinaigrette, and tomato-braised Kurobuta pork shoulder.

Additionally, more than 52 San Francisco restaurants will be participating in “Heirloom Tomato Week” (which is actually longer than a week since it goes from Aug. 14-24). The restaurants will feature heirloom tomatoes in a la carte dishes or in tasting menus. Its their way of trying to help farmers who were impacted during the recent salmonella scare that mistakenly identified tomatoes as the culprit.

Every diner who pays with a Visa card also will receive a commemorative book with tomato recipes from the participating restaurants, which include Coi, Piperade, and Poleng Restaurant & Lounge. View a complete list here. Reservations are available on OpenTable.com.
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Top Chefs Teach Top Classes

He's backkkk -- Marcel from Season 2

“Top Chef” fans lucky enough to be living in New York or visiting there soon will be happy to know some of their favorite contestants will be teaching demonstration classes at the Culinary Institute of America at Astor Center in Manhattan’s East Village.

Marcel Vigneron, whom fans loved to jeer and nickname “Wolverine” because of his ‘do, will be teaching Aug. 4. He’s followed by Tre Wilcox on Aug. 18; Dale Talde on Aug. 25; Stephanie Izard, this season’s winner, on Sept. 8; and Richard Blais on Sept. 15.

Each class is limited to 36 participants. Price is $195 per person.

Is he making another foam?

The 100th Anniversary of Umami

Chef Kunio Tokuoka of Kyoto Kitcho in Japan serves a candle-lit, show-stopping appetizer featuring umami-rich ingredients such as kombu simmered beef, spiny lobster with bonito, and savory egg yolk custard with somked chicken mousse/Parmigiano-Reggiano

You know sweet, sour, salty and bitter. But do you know umami?

You do if you’ve enjoyed tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, anchovies, mushrooms, cured ham, aged beef, and miso soup.

Those are just some of the ingredients or dishes that are high in umami, otherwise known as the “fifth flavor.” Often described as tasting “savory”  or “delicious,” umami was discovered 100 years ago by Japanese scientist Dr. Kikunae Ikeda who studied the taste of kombu dashi (kelp soup stock).

Last week, chefs and scientists gathered in San Francisco for a one-day seminar on umami, followed by a four-course lunch spotlighting that savory flavor. The event was organized by the non-profit Umami Information Center (which is funded by various food companies) to mark the centennial anniversary of umami’s discovery.

Hiro Sone's umami-rich ginger-poached shrimp and watermelon salad with lemongrass vinaigrette made with a touch of Asian fish sauce

Glutamate (glutamic acid), the most common amino acid we consume, is what produces umami. Although we tend to blanch when we hear the words “monosodium glutamate” (glutamate with salt), glutamate is a naturally occurring substance in many foods. “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome” (a supposed reaction to eating too much MSG-laced food) has been largely debunked, says Gary Beauchamp, director of the Monell Chemical Senses Center.

“The idea that glutamate could be poison is ludicrous,” he says. Indeed, human milk is much higher in glutamate than cow’s milk.

What glutamate does is make many things taste so much better by adding more complexity and mouth fullness.

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How We Eat

That’s the apt title of the new thought-provoking speaker series, July 31 through August, hosted by the non-profit, public affairs forum, the Commonwealth Club of California. From Alice Waters of Chez Panisse in Berkeley to Jesse Ziff Cool of Menlo Park’s Flea Street Cafe to Ryan Scott of “Top Chef” fame and the new Mission Bay Cafe in San Francisco, there’s a program sure to entice.

Here’s the lineup:

*July 31, Thurs., 5:30 p.m. check-in, 6 p.m. program (Fairmont Hotel)
Speakers: Alice Waters, Owner and Executive Chef of Chez Panisse, Author, Sustainable Food Advocate; Eric Schlosser, Investigative Reporter, Writer, Author of Fast Food Nation

Title:  The Joys and Pleasure of Eating Well.

Cost: $15 members, $30 non-members; Premium $55 members, $75 non-membersÂ

*Aug. 4, Mon., 5:30 p.m. program (Boardroom)

Book Discussion: Michael Pollan’s In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto

Title:  Navigating Nutritional Minefields.

Monthly book discussion, author not present

Cost: FREEÂ

*Aug. 4, Mon., 6:30 p.m. check-in, 7 p.m. program, 8 p.m. book signing
(Cubberley Community Center Theatre)

Speaker: Jesse Ziff Cool, Restaurateur, Author of “Simply Organic: A Cookbook for Sustainable, Seasonable, and Local Ingredients”

Title: Simply Organic

Cost: $12 members, $18 non-membersÂ

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Farmed Seafood That Gets the Thumbs-Up

Farm-raised Loch Duart salmon

We’ve been conditioned to stay away from most farmed seafood — and for good reason.

But there are some types that have won over critics. Read my primer that I wrote for the Slow Food Nation blog.

Slow Food Nation is a mega-event that takes place Aug. 29 to Sept. 1 in San Francisco. It will feature a marketplace, speakers’ forum, panel discussions, and dinners — all revolving around the celebration and continued fostering of sustainable food around the world.

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