Courage Beyond Belief
That’s what Chef Grant Achatz exhibted as he fought an unbelievable battle with tongue cancer.
The celebrated chef-proprieter of Alinea in Chicago and one of the true pioneers in this country of molecular gastronomy, Achatz not only fought for his life, but faced the devastating prospect of losing his ability to taste.
Achatz is nothing but a fighter. After all, as a young man, he so desperately wanted to work at the French Laundry in Yountville under the revered Thomas Keller that he sent Keller his resume — for 24 days straight — until Keller hired him. He ended up rising to sous chef, before leaving for Chicago to strike out on his own.
I’ve had the honor of interviewing him a couple times over the years, and there are few chefs as intelligent, articulate, and thought-provoking.
In this month’s New Yorker magazine, D.T. Max profiles Achatz, and tells how the rare cancer remained undiagnosed for more than a year until it grew so massive that Achatz could barely eat; how doctors told him his only option was to have his tongue cut out, a course of action Achatz refused; and how Achatz, the father of two young boys (one named Keller after his mentor), never stopped working through any of this.
It’s a lengthy story, but I promise you’ll read every word of it.
