Category Archives: Recipes (Savory)

Make Room For Smoked Meat Loaf

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Getting ready to smoke the meatloaf with plenty of hickory.

Sure, you’ve baked many a meat loaf. But have you ever smoked one — over hickory chips no less?

It may spoil you for any other version.

A beguiling smoky, woodsy flavor permeates this very moist “Slow-Smoked Barbecued Meat Loaf” from “Cooking My Way Back Home” (Ten Speed Press) cookbook, of which I received a review copy late last year. The cookbook is by Mitchell Rosenthal, co-owner and executive chef of three San Francisco restaurants: Town Hall, Salt House, and Anchor and Hope. The book features more than 100 hearty, Southern-inspired dishes from those restaurants.

This is one flavorful meatloaf, as the mixture of ground beef, pork and veal is suffused with your favorite barbecue sauce, Dijon mustard, grated Parmesan and a spice mixture that includes cayenne, paprika, cumin, coriander, oregano, celery salt and dry mustard.

Meat loaf that's as good as it gets.

The meat loaf can be cooked either inside a loaf pan or on top of a sheet pan. The latter will expose it to more of that lovely smoke, so that’s the method I chose.

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Blathering about Bouillabaisse Balls

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Fish is the main ingredient in these meatballs. But where, oh where, is the sauce?

This is a case of: Do as I say; don’t do as I do.

What I mean by that is if you make this recipe for “Bouillabaisse Balls” found in “The Meatball Shop Cookbook” (Ballantine Books) exactly as printed — as I did — you may find it lacking. Just as I did.

First, it looks nothing like the photo in the book by Daniel Holzman and Michael Chernow, founders of New York City’s The Meatball Shop, of which I received a review copy. The photo in the book shows a frying pan filled to the brim with meatballs bobbing in a thick tomato sauce. Only problem? The meatballs in the recipe are cooked in a rectangular baking dish, not a frying pan. And there’s no sauce anywhere to be found in the recipe. Uh, hello?

OK, fine, I thought. I’ll just try making the recipe as is, thinking the fish balls, seasoned to mimic the famous Provencal seafood stew, will be flavorful enough all on their own.

Not quite.

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Taming the Bitter

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Roasting makes endive downright sweet.

I love radicchio and Belgian endive for their color and crunch.

But I know quite a few folks who are turned off by their bitterness.

In a world of candy, sodas and high-fructose corn syrup lurking in most everything processed, the flavor of bitter does become a difficult pill to swallow for some palates.

But here’s a way to have your sweet and eat your endive, too.

The secret is high-heat roasting, which caramelizes this variety of chicory until it’s tender and mellows the bitterness until it’s barely there, leaving a natural sweetness behind.

The recipe is from the new “All About Roasting” (W.W. Norton & Company) by one of my favorite cookbook authors, Molly Stevens. Her “All About Braising” book (W.W. Norton & Company) is one I reach for all the time in fall and winter.

Her newest cookbook, of which I received a review copy, includes more than 150 recipes showcasing high-, low- and moderate-heat roasting techniques on everything from veggies, fruit, shellfish and meat.

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Chef Mourad Lahlou’s Prawn-Kumquat Skewers

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How pretty are these shrimp-kumquat skewers? And they taste even better than they look.

If ever food on a stick could be drop-dead glam, this would be it.

I practically felt like lighting candles and artfully arranging silk pillows all over the floor to set the proper mood to enjoy them with.

“Prawn-Kumquat Skewers” will do that to you.

The irony is they couldn’t be easier to make, yet they look as if some fancy restaurant made them for a fortune.

The recipe is from the new cookbook, “Mourad: New Moroccan” Artisan) by Mourad Lahlou, chef-proprietor of the magical Aziza in San Francisco, the only Moroccan restaurant in North America to boast a Michelin star.

Born in Marrakesh, Lahlou left his native land at age 17 to study economics at my old alma mater, San Francisco State University. But the flavors of his homeland beckoned him into the kitchen and it wasn’t long before he was running his own restaurant, Aziza.

Over the years, the food there has morphed from traditional to astoundingly progressive, with flavors that are hauntingly true and clear.

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Sweet Potato Soup for Your Sweetie

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Dig in. You know you want to.

This soup is comfort in a bowl, yet elegant enough for company.

It’s velvety smooth, yet has surprising hits of added texture from feta cheese crumbles and chopped sun-dried tomatoes.

“Sweet Potato and Cumin Soup with Feta Yogurt” is from the new cookbook, “Soup, Glorious Soup” (Kyle Books” by food writer Annie Bell, of which I recently received a review copy.

It’s filled with more than 100 soup recipes — from rustic to refined.

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