Category Archives: Restaurants

Take Five with Chef Jennie Lorenzo, On Cooking with Bad Boy Chefs and Life After the Fifth Floor

One of the best meals I’ve had this year can’t be experienced again.

Not in all its totality.

It was on Sept. 4 at San Francisco’s tony Fifth Floor restaurant, on what was the last night that Executive Chef Jennie Lorenzo was in the kitchen.

Although, I had eaten at the Fifth Floor a few times over the past few years under the reign of other top toques, I had yet to make it in there to try Lorenzo’s cooking. I had planned on doing so some day. But some day came all too unexpectedly when Lorenzo emailed me that week, inviting me to come in as her guest, as she was about to depart the restaurant after cooking there on and off for five and a half years.

My husband, who is happy enough with a burger and gets jaded after one too many fancy tasting menus, sat back in his chair that night, looked me square in the eyes, and said emphatically after only the second course, “I am SO glad we came. This is really good.”

How good? Even our server, who had worked with Lorenzo for the past few years, came in to dine on his day off a few days before because he wanted to experience Chef Lorenzo’s dazzling cooking one last time before she left.

You might be scratching your head right now, thinking how it’s possible you’ve never heard of this talented, 35-year-old Filipino-American, who has worked for some of the most legendary chefs in the United States, Europe and Japan. It’s not your fault. For whatever reason, Lorenzo never garnered the buzz she should have. She took over right after the restaurant was remodeled — its wild, flashy animal prints toned down to a sleeker, simpler contemporary look.  But the public seemed confused about what the restaurant had become. Some thought it still fine-dining; others turned their back, thinking it had morphed into a bistro of all things.

The pity of that.

Especially  because Lorenzo decided to leave the restaurant to take a much needed break. Although the restaurant will continue, it’s unclear yet who will be named as her replacement.

Read more

An Evening With a Masterful Food Photographer

Who wouldn’t want to be able to photograph food as lovely and luminous as those images above?

I know I sure would.

The pics of Point Reyes glorious cheeses and scenery were  taken by Eric Wolfinger, who has regularly chronicled the San Francisco food scene at such restaurants as Tartine, Slanted Door and Delfina. In fact, you can see his work in the upcoming “Tartine Bread” (Chronicle Books).

Sept. 20, you can meet him in person and pepper him with photography questions when he hosts a special dinner at Outerlands in San Francisco.

The dinner will both celebrate his new exhibition at the nearby Carville Annex, which runs through Oct. 6, and benefit Marimed, an organization working to bring health care and medical care to post-quake Haiti.

Read more

Brunch That’s Epic

Dungeness crab cake Benedict at Epic Roasthouse. (Photo by Mark Leet)

Oh sure, folks go on and on about the burger at Epic Roasthouse in San Francisco, a half-pound behemoth ($20) made from the trimmings of all that primo Prime grade beef on the menu.

But one cannot live by burgers alone. Well, not all the time, anyway.

To that end, there’s also brunch. The restaurant, a short hop from the Harbor Court Hotel, offers brunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.

Take a seat inside or outside this restaurant, which is right on the Embarcadero and boasts picturesque views of the Bay.

A $40 prix-fixe option offers your choice of mimosa or Bloody Mary plus an organic yogurt parfait or cup of creamy corn soup, then a choice of entrees such as an open-face Meyer lemon shrimp sandwich on brioche or New York steak and poached eggs, plus beignets.

Read more

Spice Kit — A Sandwich Shop with Quite the Pedigree

Eat one pork belly bun at Spice Kit, and you're sure to want another.

Spice Kit in San Francisco’s South of Market neighborhood is not your average sandwich joint.

Not with its state-of-the-art sous vide equipment in the kitchen.

And not with a founder, who used to work at the French Laundry in Yountville, and a chef, who hails from the celebrated Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in San Francisco.

The duo, which opened Spice Kit two months ago, near the Hotel Vitale, is elevating the bold, irresistible flavors of Korean, Chinese and Vietnamese street food to a higher level with organic tofu, organic greens and high-quality meats. They even make their own paté in-house for the banh mi sammies.

Fred Tang, right, and Will Pacio, left, of Spice Kit.

Chef Fred Tang and Founder Will Pacio, who not only cooked at the French Laundry, but also Thomas Keller’s outpost in New York, Per Se, invited me in recently to try their offerings. (Full disclosure: Will is the brother of one of my former San Jose Mercury News colleagues, fashion writer Nerissa Pacio, who now does the stylish blog, NerissasNotebook.)

How could I refuse? Especially when French Laundry chef de cuisine alums, Corey Lee of the new, nearby Benu restaurant in San Francisco, and Ron Siegel of the Dining Room, have already been in for their fill? In fact, here’s a pic of Siegel placing his order at the counter.

The fast-casual spot offers salads, banh mi and ssams (Korean wraps) with your choice of five-spice chicken, beef short ribs, roasted pork or tofu. The prices are higher than your typical Mom-and-Pop Vietnamese cafe, but the most expensive item is only $7.95. And the caliber of ingredients and cooking really shines through.

Read more

« Older Entries Recent Entries »