Category Archives: Restaurants

Mozzarella Mania

Hand-pulled mozzarella. Made fresh three times a day.

Got your attention? Get a taste of that at Poggio in Sausalito, Sept. 9-13. Executive Chef Peter McNee serves freshly made burrata year-round, but he only makes hand-pulled mozzarella during the peak of summer. With heirloom tomatoes at their best, he believes it’s the greatest time to pair them with his dreamy-creamy mozzarella.

He explains: “Fresh mozzarella has a sweeter flavor and a more delicate texture than what you can find in any store,” and by making the mozzarella three times a day, “we are able to keep the cheese at room temperature so that it is always soft, supple, and sweet.”

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Eggs and Toast — The Glam Way

Take a seat for a decadent treat. Photo by Heather Wiley, Drew Altizer Photography.

That’s the only way to describe the luxe “Eggs and Toast” package at the Redwood Room Bar in the Clift Hotel in San Francisco.

Forget over-easy. Think Tsar Nicoulai California Estate Osetra Caviar (from sustainable farmed sturgeon). This is no time for whole-wheat, either. Think crispy potato chips instead. And coffee has given way to premium Champagne.

Ahh, that’s the kind of eggs and toast I’m talking about. It’s all part of the Redwood Room’s 75th anniversary celebration.

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Fried To A Crisp Until I Can’t Resist

The best donut -- period.

For a long time, I tried my hardest to avoid fried foods. It’s not that I don’t like fried foods. It’s just that fried foods have a way of sticking around.

On the hips. On the waist. On every inch of my body.

But then, I married Meat Boy. Yes, with a nickname like that, he made me realize just how many big hunks of meat are naturally accompanied by something crisp, golden, and irresistibly fried. And well, faced with that onslaught, you succumb. You can’t help it.

So I do indulge now and then. But I make sure it’s worth it. In no particular order, here’s my personal list of Top 10 fried foods worth every dang calorie. If there are any other fried temptresses out there that can’t be denied, do let me know.

1. Glazed donut at Stan’s Donut Shop in Santa Clara. The puffiest, yeastiest, most pillowy donuts ever. Even people who have sworn off donuts make an exception for a glazed one here. Because the shop sells so many of them that the supply constantly needs to be replenished, the donuts almost always can be snagged warm, just out of the fryer. These donuts have been an institution since the shop opened in 1959. Seventy cents will buy you one donut and a whole lotta happiness.

2. Calamari with romesco sauce ($11) at Bocadillos in San Francisco. There is fried calamari. And then there is fried calamari. It’s the latter you’ll find at this lively, small-plates, Basque restaurant by renowned Chef Gerald Hirigoyen. With the lightest, crispest coating imaginable, the bite-size tentacles and ring pieces arrive at the table at once tender, crunchy, and ethereal. It will spoil you for any other fried calamari ever again.

3. Sweet potato fries at Taylor’s Automatic Refresher in St. Helena, Napa, and San Francisco ($3.99). Thin and crispy, it’s everything you want in a fry, and then some. The dusting of chili powder adds a nice contrast to the subtle sweetness of the fries. I order these every time I go to Taylor’s. You can’t eat just one. And you simply can’t not order them.

Korean fried chicken

4. Regular or “spicy sauce” fried chicken at 99 Chicken in Santa Clara. This is fried chicken, Korean-style, served in a barest of bare-bones establishments in a strip mall off bustling El Camino Real. It’s fried to order, and arrives almost too hot to handle, in a gossamer breading. Purists will go for the traditional, unadorned chicken. Those who like heat can opt for the spicy sauce version _ the same fried chicken, but coated with a neon-red spicy-sweet, sticky sauce that is unabashedly finger-licking-good. Waitresses provide you with pop-up sponges to clean your hands afterwards. Help yourself to all the pickled daikon, and iceberg-lettuce salad fixings you want. Five pieces of chicken are $6.99 for the regular; $7.99 for the spicy.

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Duck, Duck, and No Goose

Chef Josiah Slone putting on the finishing touchesPlenty of duck will be on the menu on Aug. 28 at Sent Sovi in Saratoga when Executive Chef Josiah Slone and Jim Reichardt, founder of Liberty Ducks farm in Sonoma County, team up to host their annual “Duck Man Dinner.”

The four-course menu with paired wines will spotlight Liberty ducks, a variety of Pekin duck that was developed in Denmark. The Sonoma County farm raises them without antibiotics or hormones, and on a diet of mostly corn and other grains.

Price of the dinner is $125. If you can’t make the Aug. 28 dinner when Reichardt is the special guest, you’ll still have an opportunity to enjoy duck when Sent Sovi replaces its regular tasting menu with the duck one, Aug. 29-Aug. 31.

Learn to Pair Wine With Asian Dishes

This book is your gift with the class.

Riesling? Gewurztraminer? Australian Shiraz? When to serve each of those wines with what Asian dishes?

You’ll learn exactly what wines go with what flavor profiles in Indian, Chinese, Vietnamese and other Asian fare in the 1:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. Oct. 11 class, “Master Food and Wine Pairing” at Le Colonial restaurant in San Francisco. Yours truly has been helping to put together that class that is part of the three-day weekend “Asian Culinary Forum,” a series of classes, tours, workshops and discussions celebrating the vibrant changes in Asian cuisines around the globe.
Edwin Soon Join Edwin Soon, enologist and wine columnist for Time Out Singapore, as he leads you through pairings of varietals with tastes of various classic Asian dishes. Everyone goes home with a copy of his book, “Wine With Asian Food, New Frontiers in Taste” (Tide-Mark Press), which he co-authored with wine teacher Patricia Guy. The class is $85.

To whet your appetite, enjoy this recipe, along with wine pairing recommendations, from the book:

Imperial-Style Grilled Spareribs

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