Category Archives: Restaurants

Fried Chicken Nights at Ad Hoc Now Every Week

Watercress and radish salad

When diners time their reservations specifically for when fried chicken makes an appearance on the menu, and when lines snake out the door midweek as late as 9 p.m. in sleepy Yountville just for a taste of it, you know that’s got to be some darn good bird.

Since Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc opened a year and a half ago, the storied fried chicken has been a hands-down favorite. After all, who can resist chicken brined for 10 hours in honey, salt and lemon, then dipped in buttermilk, flour, and cornmeal, before being fried crisp and golden? The fried chicken used to be available only every other Monday night at the casual restaurant, where there is only one set menu each day and everything is served family-style. Now, due to overwhelming demand, Ad Hoc has declared every other Monday and every other Wednesday, of alternating weeks, to be fried chicken nights. If that’s a bit confusing, bear with us: It means fried chicken is on the menu this coming Wednesday night, and then the following week on Monday night, April 21. Then it reappears on the menu again on Wednesday, April 30. Whew, got that?

For fans of the melt-in-your-mouth short ribs (cooked “sous vide” or in a sealed pouch in a temperature controlled water bath, for 48 hours), you’ll still have to take your chances on when those beauties pop up on the menu because it all depends on when the meat is available.

As you can tell, none of these photos are of fried chicken, alas. My hubby, aka Meat Boy, and I missed fried chicken by mere hours. You see, we went to Ad Hoc, 6476 Washington Ave., to try its new Sunday brunch. Like dinner ($48 for four courses), brunch also is one set menu each Sunday (three courses for $38). And fried chicken and sourdough waffles (oh my, oh my!) were supposed to be that Sunday brunch’s main attraction. That is, until the restaurant decided to go with fried chicken only at night. Sigh.

Even so, we had a marvelous brunch. It started out with the lovely salad you see above with watercress, and Easter egg, watermelon, and black and white radishes, all tossed in a light lemon chive vinaigrette with toasted pine nuts. The stellar veggies were picked from the “farm” across the street from the French Laundry. Alongside the dish were lady-like cucumber mint finger-sandwiches.

Steak 'n' Eggs

Next came “steak ‘n’ eggs,” beef sirloin tips alongside Clark Farm’s hen eggs cooked like an omelet and then cut into pappardelle-like ribbons. Alongside was a colorful, flavorful medley of fava beans, roasted red peppers, and super crispy and creamy Yukon Gold potato hash.

The finale was D’Anjou pears poached in white wine and dolloped with vanilla whipped cream; and served with buttery shortbread cookies.

We enjoyed brunch on one of those really perfect, sunny days in Yountville, where locals and tourists were strolling about. And where a chef or two could be spotted, including a sporty Richard Reddington of Redd, the one-Michelin-star restaurant just up the block. Reddington cruised by on his bicycle, stopping briefly to check his pulse rate just outside of Ad Hoc.

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Take Five With Chef Christopher Kostow of the Restaurant at Meadowood

Chef Christopher Kostow at the burners at the Restaurant at Meadowood

You can’t blame Christopher Kostow, 31, for feeling giddy like a kid in a candy store. In his two years as head chef at Chez TJ in Mountain View, he steered the small, venerable restaurant from zero to one to two Michelin stars.

 Now, having left that establishment in February, he’s landed on a much showier stage as head of the already two-Michelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood, the bucolic and breathtaking 250-acre resort in St. Helena.

Every morning, spring onions, baby carrots, fuschia-hued radishes, and other fresh-as-can-be veggies are plucked from the resort’s 50-yard by 30-yard garden for that evening’s elegant dishes. You’ll spot them in such creative fare as lobster with sweetbread ravioli garnished with hedgehog mushrooms, turnips, and slivers of black truffle.

Assisted by a polished waitstaff and a resident Master Sommelier, Kostow’s cooking is more refined than at Chez TJ, with flavors that really pop and linger. Some of his loyal customers from Chez TJ have driven up and back in one day just to get their fix. And so have big-name celebrities from the music and sports worlds.

I sat down with Kostow to find out how life has changed for the former philosophy major, who grew up outside of Chicago, and went on to work with Michelin-starred chefs in France and to be sous chef at Campton Place in San Francisco.

Q: How is it different cooking here?

A: The kitchen here is four times the size of the one at Chez TJ. It’s twice as many cooks (eight) doing the same amount of covers — about 50 a night. I brought with me five staff members from Chez TJ, which made things monumentally easier.

There are a lot more inherent challenges, too. The diners here are more sophisticated, and not necessarily going to order the chef’s tasting menu. But that has a lot to do with the economy now, too.

Q: Do you feel a lot of pressure coming in as a two-star Michelin chef to take over a restaurant that already had two stars under its previous chef?

A: I am looking at it aggressively. I keep telling myself, ‘Get two stars! Get two stars’

We have great service here, and a great wine guy. All the pieces are in place. It’s just up to me to make it happen.

Q: After you received two stars at Chez TJ, did the offers pour in?

A: There were other offers, including some big ones in the City (San Francisco). But it needed to be a step up, with more exposure. When I looked at the management team here, it was a no-brainer to accept this one.

Q: Do you think you’v become a better chef here?

A: I think my cooking has gotten more refined, more focused. Chez TJ was my first head chef job. I have a repertoire now. It’s not like when you’re still a young chef and every new dish is a mountain to climb.

Q: Is there a dish on the current menu that you’re particularly proud of?

A: The toro with Osetra caviar, creme fraiche, and spring onions. It’s a complicated dish that looks simple. It’s a luxurious dish that doesn’t beat you over the head with technique. We cold-smoke the toro, freeze it, then cut it very thinly with a slicer. It thaws the moment it hits the plate.

Crispy confit of suckling pig

Q: The crispy confit of suckling pig is just astounding with its melt-in-your-mouth flesh and cracklingly crisp skin. I could have easily eaten five orders of it, and never been happier.

A: Everyone loves that dish. We get whole pigs in. We cure the legs and shoulders — confit-style. We take the meat off, we take the skin off and clean it. We press it so the natural gelatin holds it together. It’s a Campton Place dish.

Q: So life is treating you well here?

A: I’ve cooked for more chefs, vintners, and celebrities in two months here than in two years at my other restaurant. Read more

Viva La French Food

Kobe beef tartare with Dijon mustard and capers. Grilled lamb chops with ratatouille. Grilled New York steak with sauce Bearnaise, and crispy frites.

Oooh la la!

Indulge in that and a whole lot more at the new Chez Papa Resto, 414 Jessie St. in San Francisco’s Mint Plaza. It’s the newest venture from the Maktub Group, which also owns Chez Maman, Couleur Café and Chez Papa Bistrot.

The executive chef is David Bazirgan, formerly of the now-shuttered Elizabeth Daniel in San Francisco, as well as Baraka in San Francisco.

The Provencal bistro seats 60, and features a chef’s table made of stunning antique glass.

Travel to Spain Via Jose Andres’ Culinary Show

A disciple of molecular gastronomy pioneer Ferran Adria, Jose Andres is a culinary innovator with loads of charm and a bigger-than-life personality. And he uses those skills to great effect in his new public television show, “Made In Spain.”

On each episode, the Spanish chef, who owns four restaurants in the Washington, DC area, takes you on a tour of a different region of Spain, highlighting specific wines, cheeses, produce or other integral ingredients. Then in his own U.S. kitchen, he shows how to make simple dishes using those products to bring a taste of Spain into your own home. It can be as straightforward as taking jarred piquillo peppers, stuffing them with triangles of Spanish cheese, sauteeing them until just browned, then drizzling on a sherry vinegar-olive oil-shallot dressing.

It’ll leave you hungry for the food and for visiting Spain.

Tune in next at 2 p.m. April 5 on KQED-TV, when Andres explores the wonders of hard cider, hearty bean stew with sausages, and his mother’s favorite blue cheese known as Cabrales.

Meet for Meat in Palo Alto

Carnivores will be in heaven when Pampas opens its doors later this month in downtown Palo Alto at 529 Alma St. at Hamilton Ave. I know my hubby is sure to be one of the first in line. After all, those of you who have followed my food stories in the pages of my former employer, the Mercury News, know all too well his nickname: Meat Boy.

Picture 18 different meats on skewers, everything from lamb to duck to filet mignon. With churrasco-style dining, you eat and eat until you wave the red flag. There will be plenty of vegetarian options; and lighter eaters can opt to order a la carte, too. A side bar also will tempt with an array of salads, cheeses, and charcuterie.

The 8,300-square-foot tri-level space will feature mohair sofas and Acacia wood stools. The executive chef is John Karbowski, formerly sous chef at Mill Valley’s El Paseo. General manager is Saeed Amini, formerly at Kokkari in San Francisco, Evvia in Palo Alto, and Cetrella in Half Moon Bay.

Consulting sommelier is Mark Bright, formerly at Michael Mina in San Francisco and currently managing partner at Local Kitchen and Wine Merchant. And consulting pastry chef is a familiar name: Marisa Churchill, currently the pastry chef at Yoshi’s San Francisco and a former contestant on Bravo TV’s “Top Chef.”

Find more information at www.pampaspaloalto.com after the site goes live.

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