Take Five with Chef Douglas Keane of Michelin-Starred Cyrus, On His Revealing New Memoir “Culinary Leverage”

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Chef-Owner Douglas Keane in the kitchen at Cyrus in Geyserville. (Photo by Cynthia Glassell)
Chef-Owner Douglas Keane in the kitchen at Cyrus in Geyserville. (Photo by Cynthia Glassell)

You may know Chef Douglas Keane as a victor of “Top Chef Masters,” and the owner of Michelin-starred Cyrus in Geyserville. You may even know the brutal ups and downs he faced when the original Cyrus closed in Healdsburg in 2012 following a landlord dispute and his ensuing 10-year struggle over five different properties to reopen the restaurant in a new location.

Despite all of that, Keane, his 20-year business partner Nick Peyton, and longtime chef Drew Glassell, managed to bring that vision to fruition to open the new Cyrus in 2022 in a modern glass, steel, and concrete building among vineyards on the grounds of what was once the home of a Sunsweet prune packing plant.

Through that whole ordeal, he was also busy writing a memoir, “Culinary Leverage’‘ (Koehler Books), which debuts Feb. 25.

It is at points illuminating, frank, brave, jarring, and hilarious. And yes, there are even a handful of recipes included at the end. I had a chance to chat with Keane about his reasons for writing the book, and on revealing so much about himself and the restaurant industry.

Q: What made you want to write this book?

A: At first, I just thought I had some interesting stories to tell, that a lot of weird shit had happened to me that I should just put down. But everyone’s story is unique, so that’s not what this became about. I wrote the book to make changes in the industry, to illuminate why I got to the dark, weird places.

Q: There are definitely some very dark and intense moments in this book, especially at the start of it, which will surprise people. Did you think twice about including those?

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Pedro’s 2.0 in Los Gatos

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The fun and delicious popcorn flan at Pedro's in Los Gatos.
The fun and delicious popcorn flan at Pedro’s in Los Gatos.

What happens when a Mexican restaurant that’s more than half a century old undergoes a 9-month overhaul?

Wonderful things, as in the case of Pedro’s in downtown Los Gatos.

Not only did it get a slightly fancier name, Pedro’s Cocina & Cocktails, but also a new stylish interior, as well as a former fine-dining chef in the form of Julio Aguilera, who hails from San Francisco’s Michelin two-starred Saison.

The Saison connection makes absolute sense when you realize that both that restaurant, along with Pedro’s in Los Gatos and Pedro’s in Santa Clara, are co-owned by Silicon Valley entrepreneur Jag Kapoor.

But don’t worry that your neighborhood Mexican restaurant has gone all chi chi. The Los Gatos restaurant may have gotten a revamp late last year, but it remains a comfortable, casual place serving many of its classic favorites along with some more updated fare.

The focal point bar at Pedro's Los Gatos.
The focal point bar at Pedro’s Los Gatos.

Diners seem to be embracing the new look and menu, as evidenced by the steady stream coming through the door on a rainy and windy Thursday night when I dined. Although my husband and I paid our tab, the chef sent out a couple dishes on the house for us to try.

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A Sweet Pairing For Valentine’s Day

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These cookies are two treats in one.
These cookies are two treats in one.

Newman and Woodward.

Travis and Taylor.

Kermit and Miss Piggy.

What’s your ideal sweet pair?

For me, it’s got to be peanut butter and dark chocolate.

If you know someone with a similar predilection, then bake them a batch of “Peanut Butter Cup Cookies” this Valentine’s Day. You’re sure to win their heart with these treats that are like Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups — but in cookie form.

Best yet, this recipe makes a reasonable six treats — just enough to satisfy, but not too many to feel as if you’re going overboard.

This nostalgic yet timeless treat is from “Small Batch Cookies” (Kyle Books, 2024), of which I received a review copy.

It’s by Edd Kimber, the London baker and food writer who was the inaugural winner of “The Great British Bake Off.”

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A Visit to Chef Bruno Chemel’s Le Parc Bistrobar in Downtown San Francisco

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Tarte tatin a l'oignon at Le Parc Bistrobar.
Tarte tatin a l’oignon at Le Parc Bistrobar.

When Chef Bruno Chemel shuttered his Bistronomie by Baume in Palo Alto in August 2023 after less than a year, he thought about retiring.

Who could blame him? After all, before transforming that California Avenue space into a more casual establishment, he had spent the previous 13 years overseeing it in its original incarnation as the cutting-edge, fine-dining Baume restaurant known for its eye-popping molecular gastronomy.

It garnered him one Michelin star for three years before it was elevated to two stars, a distinction it held for a long nine years even in its later stage when it was only Chemel and his wife Christie running the entire restaurant alone.

If anyone deserved a rest after all of that, surely he did.

Chef Bruno Chemel.
Chef Bruno Chemel.

Of course, that lasted all of a heartbeat. Only a month later, he was scouring locations for a new restaurant.

Last summer, he opened Le Parc Bistrobar in the Galleria Park Hotel with his wife by his side, designing the cocktails and running the dining room. This time, though, they do have the help of other employees.

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Locale to Your Door

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Locale's Miso wild salmon bowl.
Locale’s Miso wild salmon bowl.

These days, there are many ways to get prepared food delivered right to your door, be it from restaurants or meal kit services.

Bay Area-based Locale offers yet another option, one with some interesting advantages.

It was co-founded in 2020 by Chris Clark, who worked for a time in investment banking and venture capital. Like so many of us, he struggled to maintain a healthful diet while working long hours. So, he came up with Locale, a prepared meal service with dishes that are high in protein, fiber, and organic produce, and contain no processed ingredients.

Each meal is packed not in a plastic takeout container, but in a large reusable glass jar. The food needs only be reheated in the microwave or on the stovetop to enjoy. The jars can be left for pickup with your next order or simply reused or recycled on your own.

Six Locale meals delivered to my door in an insulated tote bag.
Six Locale meals delivered to my door in an insulated tote bag.

Locale makes deliveries each Monday to as far north as Marin, as east as Sacramento and as south as Carmel. The meals arrive in insulated totes, and are designed to be consumed within that week.

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