This Season’s Asparagus and Spring Allium Strata

Posted on by Leave a comment
Cheesy asparagus strata with a bevy of spring onions and spring garlic.
Cheesy asparagus strata with a bevy of spring onions and spring garlic.

“Asparagus and Spring Allium Strata” combines my three most favorite spring ingredients:

Green garlic or young garlic with their Fabio-like, long, flowing green tops, no papery skins, and a fresher, sweeter flavor.

Spring onions or immature onions with their small, compact, and tender bulbs that boast a milder flavor.

And of course, asparagus. When I can find them, I always go for the thick stalks because they cook up more tender with a more robust taste, too.

If you’re new to stratas, just think of them as a savory bread pudding — perfect for brunch, lunch or dinner. It’s just toasted or day-old bread saturated with an eggy custard mixture much like making French toast, then layered in a baking dish with vegetables, cheese and other ingredients.

This delicious version is from “The Vegetable Eater” (Workman Publishing), of which I received a review copy. It was written by Cara Mangini, a San Francisco chef and creator of Little Eater, a produce-inspired company that offers catering and weekly meal-service delivery, and opened a number of locally sourced restaurants in Columbus, OH. She was named one of the top 50 plant-forward chefs in the world by the Culinary Institute of America and the EAT foundation.

Read more

Dining At Table Culture Provisions

Posted on by 3 comments
"From the Turf'' at Table Culture Provisions
“From the Turf” at Table Culture Provisions.

Feel how you may about Elon Musk, but there’s no denying that Tesla stock has proved a boon for many.

That was certainly true for chefs Stéphane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas. During the height of Covid, the two made the daring decision to invest their Small Business Loans pandemic stimulus checks in Tesla stock, which turned out to be a brilliant move. It took all of five months for their $2,400 investment to balloon into a $17,000 windfall.

That provided the seed money not only to kick-start a successful fried chicken pop-up during the pandemic, but allowed them to generate enough funds to open their first restaurant, Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma in November 2020.

The restaurant, which has garnered glowing reviews, sports a teeny dining room and an equally tiny outdoor dining patio.

So, it comes as no surprise that Table Culture Provisions would soon find itself needing more space. As such, it will be moving to a much larger location around the corner later this summer that will feature prix fixe and a la carte menus. Its current location will remain open, as a laboratory of sorts for more forward-pushing tasting menus.

That’s what I gleaned when I dined recently at the spare and elegant little space done up with denim-colored walls.

A view of the chefs from the dining room.
A view of the chefs from the dining room.

The chefs in the kitchen are visible behind a row of windows that look onto the dining room. Given the space limitations, it’s rather remarkable the elegant, elevated food that comes out to the table.

Read more

Kenwood Part II: Dining at Golden Bear Station

Posted on by Leave a comment
Don't miss the hot honey pizza at Golden Bear Station.
Don’t miss the hot honey pizza at Golden Bear Station.

Kenwood, CA — With soaring white rafters, furry throws on the bar seats, and a menu of specialties that skew Asian and Italian by way of Wine Country, Golden Bear Station not surprisingly attracts a packed house of locals and visitors.

Even on a Wednesday night, which is when I decided to dine there recently for the first time.

But when you have a husband-and-wife team at the helm whose reputation precedes them, that’s to be expected.

Chef Joshua Smookler and Heidy He opened Golden Bear Station, which takes its name from the original gas station that once stood on the spot, in late 2023, right around the same time they decided to close their critically acclaimed, more upscale Animo in Sonoma.

Golden Bear Station.
Golden Bear Station.
Counter seats with furry throws.
Counter seats with furry throws.

Smookler, who was born in Korea and adopted by a Jewish family in New York, worked previously at Per Se and Bouley in New York City. The couple then ran their well-regarded Mu Ramen in New York City (the New York Times heralded it as the best ramen in the city), before closing it during the pandemic to move with their young daughters to Sonoma County.

Read more

Kenwood Part I: The Kenwood Inn

Posted on by Leave a comment
Cooked-to-order banana pancakes with blueberry compote is part of the breakfast included in your stay at the Kenwood Inn & Spa.
Cooked-to-order banana pancakes with blueberry compote is part of the breakfast included in your stay at the Kenwood Inn & Spa.

Kenwood, CA — A couple years ago, my husband and I happened to stay at a Four Sisters Collection inn. Since then, when we’ve traveled on our own, we’ve often chosen to stay at its properties in both Northern and Southern California.

So, when its Kenwood Inn & Spa publicists reached out to me recently to extend an overnight stay to check out its renovation of the two-and-a-half acre, 26-room Mediterranean-style property, I gladly accepted.

What makes Four Sisters lodging so appealing? The room rates are relatively reasonable, especially in comparison to other hotels in the upscale touristy areas they are located such as Santa Monica, Carmel, Healdsburg, and Yountville.

Chocolate chip and oatmeal cookies to enjoy during your stay.
Chocolate chip and oatmeal cookies to enjoy during your stay.

Your stay at any property also includes a lot of complimentary extras, including fresh-baked cookies, a wine hour with cheese and charcuterie, and a full breakfast. When I’ve stayed on my own dime at its Healdsburg Inn, in particular, the main cook there is a delight, often going the extra mile to bake fresh apple cake or cranberry bread for guests. You can feel his pride, too, when guests dig in heartily with big smiles.

The Kenwood Inn entrance.
The Kenwood Inn entrance.
Overlooking the interior courtyard.
Overlooking the interior courtyard.

It’s that more personal touch that I think sets these properties apart from a bigger corporate chain establishment.

Having stayed at the Kenwood Inn once before — 12 years ago — it was interesting to see the changes under the new ownership. The property previously had its own ambitious restaurant, headed by a former Gordon Ramsay-trained chef, that was open to guests and the public. Now, that has been jettisoned for a cafe that provides breakfast to guests only.

Read more

Craveble — A New Food Delivery Service

Posted on by Leave a comment
Lobster roll from Oakland's Sea Breeze on the Dock delivered to my door via Craveble.
Lobster roll from Oakland’s Sea Breeze on the Dock delivered to my door via Craveble.

If you’re a regular user of food delivery services, you’ll be glad to know that there’s a new one in town: Craveble.

It actually launched 2 1/2 years ago in Sacramento to deliver premade restaurant dishes to consumers. But slowly but surely, it has expanded its geographic reach to now include six other Western states besides California. They are: Arizona, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon, Utah, and Washington.

It was established by Darren McAdams, who also founded past food delivery concepts Foodjets and FoodToYou.

My delivery box.
My delivery box.

What sets Craveble apart is the fact that you can mix and match dishes from its local partner restaurants to bundle together in one order. In the Bay Area, that means you can assemble one delivery from 10 different restaurants.

Read more
« Older Entries Recent Entries »