Eva Longoria’s Comforting Tex-Mex Chili Enchiladas

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Cheesy, beefy, soul-satisfying enchiladas.
Cheesy, beefy, soul-satisfying enchiladas.

It would be impossible to completely fill the void that the late-great Anthony Bourdain left, but I will say that I am a huge fan of Eva Longoria’s CNN series, “Searching for Mexico” and “Searching for Spain.”

She may lack his unbridled snark and bravado, but she brings warmth, compassion, and enthusiasm in spades. And no shade to Stanley Tucci in his Italy series on CNN and National Geographic, but Longoria does a far better job of actually describing the food on her shows that she’s lucky enough to enjoy.

It’s that same type of exuberance and down-to-earth charm that permeates her cookbook, “My Mexican Kitchen” (Clarkson Potter, 2024), of which I received a review copy.

The actor, director, and producer of Mexican heritage grew up in Corpus Christi, Texas. In fact, she often identifies herself as “Texican.” She now splits her time between Mexico and Spain.

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Dining in Los Angeles, Part II: The Astonishing Michelin Three-Starred Somni

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A pizza Margherita that will leave you dumbstruck at Somni.
A pizza Margherita that will leave you dumbstruck at Somni.

The first time I ever dined at the French Laundry in Yountville was a seminal experience, one punctuated by a whirlwind of wee dishes that somehow possessed such outsized, intense flavors that they left me feeling as if I were tasting food for the very first time.

Earlier this month at Somni, I relived that same type of vivid, jolting excitement — but with even more whimsy, humor, and daring.

No wonder this Los Angeles restaurant garnered three Michelin stars this year practically right out of the gate after opening in November 2024.

To be fair, Somni’s original incarnation that opened in Beverly Hills in 2018 had already earned two Michelin stars before it was forced to close when the pandemic hit, the same week it would have celebrated not only its second anniversary, but Chef-Owner Aitor Zabala’s birthday.

The unassuming entrance.
The unassuming entrance.
The courtyard behind the gate, where the meal begins.
The courtyard behind the gate, where the meal begins.
The giraffe sculpture at the front.
The giraffe sculpture at the front.
A welcome note.
A welcome note.

After hunting high and low, he found the ideal space in West Hollywood to relocate in what was previously a Donna Karan store and a former music studio frequented by Jennifer Lopez.

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Dining in Los Angeles, Part I: Splendid Italian Cuisine at Bestia

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The fantastic Margherita at Bestia.
The fantastic Margherita at Bestia.

A server who traded Southern California for Northern California recently remarked to me that they like their restaurants loud in Los Angeles.

He wasn’t kidding.

Having dined at Bavel in Los Angeles two years ago, and its sister restaurant Bestia in Los Angeles a couple weeks ago, I can concur, as these are among the noisiest restaurants where I’ve ever dined. We’re talking a volume where you need to practically shout at your dining companion across the table to be heard. Dine outside at either establishment though, and you will fare a bit better, as the clamor will still be high, but more manageable.

Even so, I will gladly put up with the din to enjoy the superlative Middle Eastern specialties at Bavel, and the exceptional Italian fare at Bestia.

It's always loud and crowded at Bestia.
It’s always loud and crowded at Bestia.

Both restaurants are owned by Chef Ori Menashe and his Pastry Chef wife Genevieve Gergis. They opened Bestia in 2012, followed by Bavel in 2018, and their very casual Saffy’s in 2022.

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The Debut of Wolfsbane in San Francisco

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The start of the tasting menu at the new Wolfsbane.
The start of the tasting menu at the new Wolfsbane.

After San Francisco’s Lord Stanley restaurant closed this summer after 10 years and a Michelin star, husband-and-wife owners Chef Rupert Blease and Carrie Blease could have taken a nice, long break, especially after the tumultuous pandemic led to its reinvention as Turntable by Lord Stanley, a residency for visiting chefs.

Instead, the couple went all in on an ambitious new project. They have teamed with Tommy Halvorsen, chef of the now-shuttered Serpentine to transform that same space into their new Wolfsbane, which opened last week in Dogpatch, just steps from Halvorsen’s Foxtail Catering.

Carrie and Rupert met in the United Kingdom when he was working at Raymond Blanc’s Michelin two-starred Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and she was an intern. They later moved to New York, where he worked at Michelin three-starred Per Se and she to Michelin-starred Blue Hill, before heading to the Bay Area.

The wolf motif.
The wolf motif.

Wolfsbane is named for a wild plant in ancient folklore that was believed to help prevent werewolves from shape-shifting. To lean into the theme, which at the restaurant is more about offering comfort, there’s a wolf’s head art piece on the wall.

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Pumpkin Spice — But Make It Ice Cream

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Pumpkin spice ice cream to make and enjoy at home.
Pumpkin spice ice cream to make and enjoy at home.

It’s amazing how something so cold can taste so warm.

That’s the delectable dichotomy of “Pumpkin Spice Ice Cream” that’s frigid enough to give you brain freeze yet suffused with the autumnal fervor of cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, ginger, and mace.

When Adagio Teas sent me samples of its seasonal offerings of Pumpkin Spice tea, Honeybush Pumpkin Chai, and Pumpkin Spice Honey, along with its Pumpkin Pie Spice Blend by its sister spice company, Selefina, I couldn’t wait to enjoy them for an afternoon pick-me-up, as well as in recipes.

The Pumpkin Spice Tea ($3 for a sample bag or $9 for 3 ounces) is a robust black tea with pumpkin spice notes, as well as pretty marigold flowers for a subtle floral note.

The Honeybush Pumpkin Chai ($4 for a sample bag or $10 for 3 ounces) blends the honey taste of herbal, non-caffeinated honeybush tea with the expected cinnamon, cardamom, and ginger, but also cocoa nibs for a touch of earthiness that lends depth. This is a smooth, soothing, and relaxing sip that you’re going to want to enjoy every day this fall and winter. You don’t even need to add milk, if you don’t want to, in order to appreciate its chai-like taste.

A pot of Adagio Pumpkin Spice tea with its Pumpkin Spice Honey.
A pot of Adagio Pumpkin Spice tea with its Pumpkin Spice Honey.

Stir in a touch of Pumpkin Spice Honey into either cup of tea, and the pumpkin spices will come even more to the forefront.

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