Courage Beyond Belief

That’s what Chef Grant Achatz exhibted as he fought an unbelievable battle with tongue cancer.

The celebrated chef-proprieter of Alinea in Chicago and one of the true pioneers in this country of molecular gastronomy, Achatz not only fought for his life, but faced the devastating prospect of losing his ability to taste.

Achatz is nothing but a fighter. After all, as a young man, he so desperately wanted to work at the French Laundry in Yountville under the revered Thomas Keller that he sent Keller his resume — for 24 days straight — until Keller hired him. He ended up rising to sous chef, before leaving for Chicago to strike out on his own.

I’ve had the honor of interviewing him a couple times over the years, and there are few chefs as intelligent, articulate, and thought-provoking.

In this month’s New Yorker magazine, D.T. Max profiles Achatz, and tells how the rare cancer remained undiagnosed for more than a year until it grew so massive that Achatz could barely eat; how doctors told him his only option was to have his tongue cut out, a course of action Achatz refused; and how Achatz, the father of two young boys (one named Keller after his mentor), never stopped working through any of this.

It’s a lengthy story, but I promise you’ll read every word of it.



Revamped Osteria Dinners at Quattro Restaurant

Beginning May 16, Quattro Restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel Silicon Valley in East Palo Alto will redo its Osteria dinner series.

The dinners, typically held the second Friday of each month, still will spotlight a winemaker, who will be on hand to discuss the vintages and varietals poured. But instead of a family-style menu, now it will be a plated four-course dinner of rustic Italian cuisine with a seasonal twist each month. In May, that means an emphasis on mushrooms.

The May 16 Osteria dinner will feature Arcadian Winery and its winemaker Joe Davis. Courses by Quattro’s Executive Chef Alessandro Cartumini include terrina of lobster in port poached grape leaf with shaved royal trumpet mushroom and white nectarine salad; and Scottish King salmon tournedo with Hen of the Wood mushrooms.

Price is $85 with wine pairing. If you’re too pooped to drive home afterwards, the hotel offers a special overnight package for two, which includes dinner, valet parking, a deluxe guest room, and breakfast the next morning. Price for that packages starts at $440 per couple.

For dinner reservations, click here or call (650) 470-2889.




Enjoy a Three-Course Beer Pairing

Forget the wine. It’s all about the suds, 6 p.m. May 13 at Monk’s Kettle in San Francisco, when Grant Wood, the brewer for Samuel Adams, hosts a three-course dinner event in celebration of American Craft Beer Week.

Price is $50. For reservations, call (415) 865-9523.

To wet your whistle, here’s the menu:

Appetizer: Mixed green salad with shaved onion, baby frisee, fresh mandarin oranges with a Samuel Adams honey mustard dressing. Paired with Samuel Adams Summer Ale.

Entree:  Samuel Adams brined Niman Ranch Pork chop served with a Tillamook cheddar and scallion potato cake, caramelized brussel sprouts and a Samuel Adams stone ground mustard ale sauce. Paired with Samuel Adams Boston Lager.

Dessert: Chocolate fondant cake served with a Samuel Adams stout chocolate creme anglaise. Paired with Samuel Adams Cream Stout.

Waterbar Goes KaBoom

For a good reason, that is. Waterbar Restaurant, 399 The Embarcadero in San Francisco, is throwing a special party, 7 p.m. to 10 p.m., May 10 in honor of the 15th annual KFOG KaBoom.

Enjoy the annual KFOG annual outdoor concert, along with a fireworks show, as well as passed hors d’oeuvres by Waterbar Executive Chef Parke Ulrich and Pastry Chef Emily Luchetti. Tickets are $65 and include all-you-can-eat oysters on the half shell, prawn cocktail, pizzas, gougere sandwiches, artichoke crab crostini, risotto fritters, salt cod fritters, ceviches, tartare, and mini meatballs, along with a full cash bar.

Featured musical acts for the KFOG KaBoom are: Los Lobos, Collective Soul, and Matt Nathanson.  Tickets to the KFOG KaBoom alone are $15 in advance, and $20 at the door. Tickets to the Waterbar event can be purchased here or by calling (415) 284-9922. And be warned that the Embarcadero will be closed to traffic during the concert and fireworks show.

Take Five With Lisa Rhorer of the New Cin-Cin Winebar

Lisa Rhorer enjoying Bethel Heights Estate Pinot Noir 2004 Willamette Valley. Photo by Dave LiporiAs Google’s first marketing manager, Lisa Rhorer learned to think outside the box. That’s why the 40-year-old was undeterred when it came to leaving behind her passion for high tech to pursue another — wine.

On May 13, she will open the doors to her own wine bar and lounge, Cin-Cin, 368 Village Lane in Los Gatos (formerly Cafe Marcella). It’s a venture with longtime South Bay/Peninsula restaurateur Don Durante, the former executive chef of Le Mouton Noir in Saratoga, and Birk’s in Santa Clara, who now also owns Cascal in Mountain View.

With its use of bamboo, cork, recycled glass, and reclaimed black walnut, Cin-Cin emphasizes sustainability. That’s evident in the wines, too. The majority of the ones featured are made by eco-conscious producers.

With a menu of small plates infused with Asian and Spanish flavors, Cin-Cin invites you to linger. Don’t miss the Diner Sliders, cute as a button, and juicy as can be mini burgers made from organic house-ground beef and nestled inside tender Parker House rolls.

The executive chef is Los Gatos-native Chris Schloss, who has cooked at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva, Switzerland; Azul in Miami; and Telepan in New York City. Durante has known Schloss since he was a kid, as Schloss’ father was involved with Birk’s.

Rhorer’s Google stock options came in handy to help finance the wine bar. After working for the search engine giant for three years, Rhorer left in 2005 to enroll in the wine studies program at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena. Later, she traveled extensively in Europe to meet winemakers there, then went on to work at the Vintage Wine Merchants in San Jose’s Santana Row and to be a wine buyer for Whole Foods in Los Altos.

We chatted about how working at Google prepared her to start her own business, her favorite food and wine pairing, and her remembrance of her first sip of wine when she was all of 10 years old.

Q: You were really that young when you had your first taste of wine?

A: Yes. It was a Robert Mondavi Cabernet. My Dad was taking wine appreciation classes when I was growing up. He took us to Napa. We visited the Mondavi winery. He was a huge fan of Mondavi Cabs.

We always had wine at the table. He allowed me to have one finger-full of wine at the table. It was less than an ounce. I did like it. I liked the feel on my palate. The funny thing, though, is that Cabs are not my favorite now.

Q: What are your faves now?

A: By going to Austria and Germany, I learned to really enjoy Rieslings, drier Burgundys, and Gruner Veltliner. For reds, I like drier, more complex ones like Pinot Noir from Oregon or Burgandy. I don’t drink a lot of Merlots and Cabs, I have a sugar sensitivity. The high alcohol of wine in California don’t agree with me. I get real headachy and bloatedness. The high sugar and high alcohol also mask food. I really go for wines that go well with food because it creates a harmonious experience. That’s why I go for wines with more complexity and elegance.

Q: What is it about wine that captured you?

A. It’s an intellectual beverage. You learn about the culture of people, geology, and vineyard practices. Wine is one of those things you can never learn enough about it. And there’s a pleasure from drinking good wine. It evokes all the senses — your nose, mouth and brain.

Q: What made you decide to open a wine bar?

A: It’s the new watering hole or new Starbucks. Back in the day, people used to go to saloons to catch up at the end of a busy day. As we get busier and become a more sophisticated culture, we still need that watering hole.  I want to provide an environment for them where they don’t feel intimidated and can learn.

Organic, sustainability, and biodynamic is also very important to me. A grape skin is very permeable. Anytime you’re spraying with pesticides you digest that, and you erode the soil. It’s not good for the land and it’s not good for you. I’ve seen what it takes for growers to change their practices. It’s a lot of work. And I want to support that.

Q: How did working at Google prepare you to open a wine bar?

A: It taught me that it doesn’t matter if a ton of people are out there doing something. With Google, there was also Excite, and Lycos. But there’s always a better way to do things. Google taught me not to be deterred, that just because there are a lot of people out there already, that doesn’t mean you can’t go for your dream.

Q. What is a favorite, moderately priced wine that you wish more people would discover?
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