Move over, matcha.

The new “It” Japanese tea in town is hojicha.

With its rather homely, dirt color, it may lack the splashy, attention-grabbing vivid green hue of matcha. But like a brooding, slightly mysterious friend, it can take a little time to reveal just how appealing and intriguing it can be.

This low caffeine, Japanese green tea is pan-roasted over charcoal to create its characteristic smoky, toasty and nutty quality that has hints of coffee and caramel.

It stars magnificently in “Hojicha Shortbread,” which bakes up with an unusual top.

The recipes is from the new cookbook, “Baking & the Meaning of Life” (Abrams), of which I received a review copy.

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