Folgasa, Douro Valley, PORTUGAL — There are few better ways to spend a sunny Sunday afternoon in this UNESCO World Heritage historic wine region than by enjoying a masterful lunch at Michelin-recommended DOC Restaurante.

Apparently, I’m not alone in that thinking, because when I dined there recently, the restaurant was so packed with patrons, most of them Portuguese-speaking, that it was turning away those who didn’t already have a reservation.

Directly perched over the banks of the Douro River, the restaurant beckons with its serene setting. Its polished caramel wood walls and floors, plus floor-to-ceiling windows that open up completely in summer, create a transportive feeling, as if you’re leisurely aboard a sleek super yacht.

Chef Rui Paula named his restaurant DOC for “Degustar, Ousar, Comunicar,” which is Portuguese for “Taste, Dare, Communicate.” It exemplifies his contemporary approach to cooking that’s marked by dishes full of finesse, beautiful presentations, maximum flavor, and nothing superfluous.

Put it this way: I tried only a handful of dishes. But even now, nearly two weeks later, I still remember each and every one vividly and longingly.

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