Tag Archives: Cyrus Geyserville

Revved Up for Ramen, Part II: Kisetsu Ramen Pop-Up at Cyrus

Pork shoyu ramen at the pop-up at Michelin-starred Cyrus.
Pork shoyu ramen at the pop-up at Michelin-starred Cyrus.

Ramen originated as a humble, working-class dish meant to be cheap and eaten in a hurry.

But when a Michelin-starred Wine Country restaurant debuts a ramen pop-up in its sleek, glass and concrete building with a view of vineyards, you know it will be anything but that.

That is definitely the case at this winter kisetsu ramen pop-up at Cyrus in Geyserville, which I happened to catch on its inaugural night last Thursday.

The pop-up, available Thursday through Saturday evenings, accommodates 12 diners max in the front portion of the lounge. The rest of the lounge remains the starting point for diners indulging in the full tasting-menu progressive experience at $325 per person, which takes about 3 hours.

In contrast, the ramen menu is $75 for three courses, which my husband and I finished in about 75 minutes.

The entrance.
The entrance.
Quite the setting for a bowl of ramen.
Quite the setting for a bowl of ramen.
The ramen menu.
The ramen menu.

The pop-up will last at least through winter. If it proves popular, it may stick around longer.

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Take Five with Chef Douglas Keane of Michelin-Starred Cyrus, On His Revealing New Memoir “Culinary Leverage”

Chef-Owner Douglas Keane in the kitchen at Cyrus in Geyserville. (Photo by Cynthia Glassell)
Chef-Owner Douglas Keane in the kitchen at Cyrus in Geyserville. (Photo by Cynthia Glassell)

You may know Chef Douglas Keane as a victor of “Top Chef Masters,” and the owner of Michelin-starred Cyrus in Geyserville. You may even know the brutal ups and downs he faced when the original Cyrus closed in Healdsburg in 2012 following a landlord dispute and his ensuing 10-year struggle over five different properties to reopen the restaurant in a new location.

Despite all of that, Keane, his 20-year business partner Nick Peyton, and longtime chef Drew Glassell, managed to bring that vision to fruition to open the new Cyrus in 2022 in a modern glass, steel, and concrete building among vineyards on the grounds of what was once the home of a Sunsweet prune packing plant.

Through that whole ordeal, he was also busy writing a memoir, “Culinary Leverage’‘ (Koehler Books), which debuts Feb. 25.

It is at points illuminating, frank, brave, jarring, and hilarious. And yes, there are even a handful of recipes included at the end. I had a chance to chat with Keane about his reasons for writing the book, and on revealing so much about himself and the restaurant industry.

Q: What made you want to write this book?

A: At first, I just thought I had some interesting stories to tell, that a lot of weird shit had happened to me that I should just put down. But everyone’s story is unique, so that’s not what this became about. I wrote the book to make changes in the industry, to illuminate why I got to the dark, weird places.

Q: There are definitely some very dark and intense moments in this book, especially at the start of it, which will surprise people. Did you think twice about including those?

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The Return of Cyrus

A perfect cube of succulent pork belly served with a zingy ale aged with cherry blossoms at the new Cyrus in Geyserville.
A perfect cube of succulent pork belly served with a zingy ale aged with cherry blossoms at the new Cyrus in Geyserville.

After a seemingly interminable odyssey, the wait is indeed over.

Cyrus, the acclaimed fine-dining restaurant that closed in Healdsburg in 2012 after a landlord dispute, finally reopened again last September in a striking new iteration in Geyserville.

Chef-Owner Doug Keane, co-owner Nick Peyton, and their team couldn’t be more relieved and thrilled to be back at it again. Neither can their legions of fans, so many of whom considered the original Cyrus their favorite restaurant.

The original Cyrus garnered two Michelin stars. The new one already scored one star — barely two months after opening.

At the entrance.
At the entrance.

Keane spent a decade searching high and low through the Alexander Valley, which was founded by the restaurant’s namesake Cyrus Alexander. He had all but given up when this site came available. Though this sleek contemporary glass, steel and concrete building is the polar opposite of the restaurant’s original Old World provincial aesthetic, it’s hard to imagine a more fitting place in this new age and time. At least, that’s what I found when I finally had the opportunity last week to dine here.

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