Tag Archives: Press St. Helena

The Arc of Michelin-Starred Press

Posted on by Leave a comment
The fantastic pretzel with caviar at Press.
The fantastic pretzel with caviar at Press.

Six years ago, when Philip Tessier was hired as executive chef-partner at Press in St. Helena, his mission was to rework the then-15-year-old restaurant that had grown into a high-end steakhouse with a fabulously deep, award-winning wine cellar.

After all, whom better to accomplish that then the first American chef to ascend the podium at the internationally renowned Bocuse d’Or, winning silver, and before that made his mark rising through the ranks at Michelin three-starred Le Bernardin in New York and The French Laundry in Yountville?

That impressive wine cellar is still there, offering the largest collection of Napa Valley wines in the world. But now, so is a Michelin star, which the restaurant received in 2022 and has held ever since.

Last winter, Press took yet another step in its transformation — completely overhauling its kitchen. Most everything now is custom. There is an Argentinian-style grill, as well as a bespoke Bonnet suite from France.

At the entrance.
At the entrance.
Michelin-starred since 2002.
Michelin-starred since 2002.
The brand-new kitchen.
The brand-new kitchen.

With the gleaming new kitchen in place, Press rolled out a new four-course prix-fixe ($150 per person; $275 with wine pairing included; or $450 with reserve pairing included) to go along with its seven-course chef’s tasting menu ($195 per person; $350 with wine pairing included, and $695 with reserve pairing included). The cuisine is now more expansive and contemporary, rooted in new American fare through a Napa Valley lens.

Last week, I dined there in the soaring, white-washed barn-like restaurant with soaring ceilings, and opted for the seven-course menu. Even mid-week, the dining room was filled with elegantly dressed patrons.

Read more

Dining Outside In the Napa Valley at Press

Posted on by Leave a comment
Swordfish gets smoked so it's silky and reminiscent in taste of pastrami -- at Press.
Swordfish gets smoked so it’s silky and reminiscent in taste of pastrami — at Press.

Last week, I drove to the Napa Valley, which may not seem remarkable in and of itself until you realize it was my first trip there in 16 months.

Visiting Wine Country has always felt as soothing as a vacation — even when I was there for work. Now, after being cooped up for days on end during a pandemic, it seems even more exhilarating.

It was also my first time in as long dining at a fine-dining restaurant — albeit outdoors. I couldn’t have picked a better place than Press, where I had been invited in as a guest to check out the new offerings by an impressive new team now in place at this venerable dining destination owned by the influential Rudd family.

Executive Chef Philip Tessier oversaw a kitchen remodel and transitioned the restaurant away from a steakhouse to more nuanced modern American fare with lighter, brighter, seasonal flair. If his name is familiar, it’s likely from his time in the kitchens at The French Laundry in Yountville and Per Se in New York, as well as for his headline-making turn as the first American chef to reach the podium at the Bocuse d’Or international competition, garnering a silver medal.

Dine in or out at Press.
Dine in or out at Press.

Tessier has recruited two fellow Thomas Keller restaurant alums: Chef de Cuisine Darryl Bell, former executive sous chef at Bouchon Bistro in Yountville, who also has his own line of barbecue sauces and rubs at Stateline Road BBQ; and Master Sommelier Vincent Morrow, whose impressive experience stretches from The French Laundry to Gary Danko, Benu, and One65, all in San Francisco. The front of the house is manned by General Manager Cole Mathers, formerly of Gary Danko restaurant.

If you need any affirmation that people are flocking to Wine Country again, consider the fact that during the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend, Press served more than 350 diners.

Read more

St. Helena’s Press Welcomes A Most Appropriate New Chef

Posted on by 10 comments

The very clever carrot "hot dog'' at Press in St. Helena.

The very clever carrot “hot dog” at Press in St. Helena.

 

Earlier this summer, Press in St. Helena welcomed a new executive chef — Trevor Kunk, who was the chef de cuisine at Blue Hill New York for seven years.

It’s a most apropos choice, given that Blue Hill is renowned for its almost painstaking use of locally grown ingredients, including those from its own farms, and the fact that Press is very much a root-to-shoot, nose-to-tail steakhouse with the bulk of its provisions coming from its 13-acre Rudd Farms and Chef’s Garden.

In Kunk’s hands, the food at Press embodies the garden even more so now, as evidenced by my recent dinner there when I was invited in to dine as a guest of the restaurant. My dinner was a week ago, prior to last Sunday’s 6.0 earthquake in Napa. Fortunately, no damage occurred at Press, which is operating as usual.

Press was founded by Wine Country mover-and-shaker Leslie Rudd, who also owns Rudd Oakville Estate and Dean & DeLuca. The graceful restaurant was designed by Howard Backen, who has been responsible for the look of the Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena, Archetype in St. Helena, Kokkari in San Francisco, and a slew of premiere wineries including Harlan Estate, Ram’s Gate, Dana Estates and Bond Estates.

You can't miss the sign on Highway 29.

You can’t miss the sign on Highway 29.

The beautiful, light-filled dining room.

The beautiful, light-filled dining room.

The soaring barn-like restaurant fills with natural light, lending a casual but elegant ambiance. With an old-fashioned, hand-crank grape press as its logo, Press takes wine seriously. There are more than 1,500 Napa Valley selections, with a specialization in Cabernet Sauvignon, that you can thumb through on an electronic tablet. Or just put your hands in Sommelier Angela Stem’s hands. After all, with a surname like that, how can you go wrong?

Read more