Meet “Pigs in Blankets” — meat and potatoes version.

With a big emphasis on the potato.

The usual frozen crescent roll dough or puff pastry is swapped out from this nostalgic dish for a whole russet potato instead that gets stuffed with an entire sausage, then wrapped in bacon.

It turns this throwback from an hors d’ouevre into a hearty main dish.

This rather zany and absolutely delicious dish is from “Retro Recipes” (Countryman Press), of which I received a review copy.

The cookbook was written by Bobby Hicks, a Florida-based bartender-turned-culinary-historian, and creator of the popular YouTube series, “Retro Recipes Kitchen.”

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