The last time I visited San Francisco’s Californios, it was 2021, when I dined outside in its well-appointed patio as the world was still maneuvering its way out of a global pandemic.

When I returned earlier this month, it was to a table inside its splashy main dining room, with its patio now relegated to special events only.

Times may have changed, but one thing has remained constant: Californios remains the only Mexican restaurant in the country to hold two Michelin stars. Celebrating the restaurant’s 11th anniversary this year, Chef-Owner Val Cantu and his wife/co-owner Carolyn Cantu have held that honor for 8 years, too.

An evening here is every bit as exalted as that distinction demands.

I love introducing friends and family to this restaurant, because it’s a good bet that unless they’ve traveled to Mexico City, they will not have experienced modern Mexican cuisine as exhilarating as this.

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