Having just returned from my first trip to Portugal, my love of tinned seafood has grown even more voracious.

There, you’ll find all manner of canned fish and shellfish not only on supermarket shelves but at specialty sardine stores that seem to be on nearly every block, beckoning tourists with their colorful and whimsical packaging.

In this country, the variety may pale in comparison. But I’m always heartened when new ones come to market — especially when they have a local Bay Area connection.

Gilded Fish is one of the newest.

This new line of premium tinned wild sockeye salmon was created by Gil Levy of San Francisco’s Bernal Cutlery, where he’s a buyer for its discerning selection of pantry items.

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