Monthly Archives: February 2009

South Bay Chef Battles In Kitchen Stadium

David Kinch of Manresa restaurant challenges on "Iron Chef America.'' (Photo courtesy of the Food Network)

There have been a parade of big-name San Francisco chefs who have duked it out on the Food Network’s “Iron Chef America.”

But now, those of us in the South Bay, finally will have one of our own to cheer on in Kitchen Stadium.

None other than David Kinch, chef of the two-Michelin-star Manresa in Los Gatos, will challenge an Iron Chef on Sunday, March 15. Of course, we can’t be a spoiler and tell you how he fared or what the secret ingredient was when he taped the show. But we can say that he goes chef’s knife to chef’s knife with Iron Chef Bobby Flay.

Those who know Kinch’s earnest demeanor and perfectionist nature when it comes to cooking might be surprised that he agreed to participate in such a zany cooking competition.

“We are serious about what we do, but hopefully don’t take ourselves too seriously,” Kinch says. “We like to have fun, too. And more than anything, I knew it would be a new experience and a lot of fun.”

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Take Five with Chef Charlie Palmer, From Pigskin Passion to Pig Parts

Chef Charlie Palmer. (Photo courtesy of Dan Waldbridge)

When you hear the name, Charlie Palmer, there’s probably one quintessential image that comes to mind immediately: the sexy, cat suit-garbed “wine angels,” hanging from wires, and scaling the enormous tower of wine bottles at his Aureole restaurant in the city of neon, Las Vegas.

It’s a flashy, glamorous picture, to be sure. It’s also a far different one than Palmer’s very humble upbringing. The son of a farmer-plumber-electrician who could fix anything, he grew up in the small town of Smyrna, New York.

It’s a place where high school football is a huge deal. But for the young Palmer, who was a burly 6-foot-tall by the age of 14, the love for cooking eventually won out over his passion for playing the sport.

His love for pigskin, though, definitely remains.

March 20-21, the mega chef-restaurateur will host his fourth annual Pigs & Pinot weekend. A celebration of the swine and the grape, it will feature guest chefs Michael Mina of the eponymous San Francisco restaurant; Christopher Kostow of the Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena; Philippe Rispoli of France; and Graham Brown of New Zealand.

Palmer prepping pork belly.

Festivities include a cooking class, wine seminars, the “Taste of Pigs & Pinot” (where you can sample a variety of pork dishes and Pinots), and a gala five-course dinner with paired limited-production Pinot Noirs. A renowned judging panel will bestow the “Pinot Cup” award on the best wine.

Tickets to the separate events range from $75 to $300.  For more information, go to http://www.pigsandpinot.com/. Proceeds benefit Share Our Strength, a national anti-hunger organization, and the Healdsburg School, a private K-8 school.

Recently, I had a chance to hang out with the 49-year-old chef at his restaurant, Dry Creek Kitchen in the Hotel Healdsburg.

Although he still shuttles to New York every two weeks, this native New Yorker and graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, has called Sonoma County home for the past few years. He visited here 15 years ago for the first time, and it was love at first sight.

Q: You have 11 restaurants nationwide now. Is it a scary time to be a restaurateur?

A: I’m a huge optimist, so I’m not scared. I think we’re in an unprecedented time. I think a lot of people are being unrealistic about how long it will last.

We’ve felt it in New York for sure, because we’re so close to Wall Street. Not so much here, though. Knock on wood.

Dry Creek Kitchen Chef de Cuisine Les Goodman plates pork belly two ways.

Q: Are you still working on new projects, despite the dire economy?

Aureole in New York will be moving in May to a new Bryant Park high-rise that’s platinum-rated for energy efficiency. The new location will have a bar-lounge area, which we’ve never had before, plus a wine mezzanine.

We’re working on a 400-room, non-gaming hotel in Las Vegas that’s not on the Strip. It’s a 10-year project.

We’re also building a new small, 36-room hotel a block and a half from the Healdsburg Square, which will open in spring 2010. It’ll be less expensive than the Hotel Healdsburg, and be called H2Hotel.

I’m also working on a pork book that’s not light-hearted. It’s actually bizarre. There are some pretty extreme photos, plus recipes. It’s an art book. At one point, the photographer was doing a photo shoot with two Scandinavian twins in a slaughterhouse in Denmark.  It’s blood, animal parts, and beautiful Scandinavian girls.

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Teacake Cupcakes

Teacake Bake Shop cupcakes. Chocolate Sour Cream Cake with dulce de leche frosting in foreground.

As with politics, when you have two opposing viewpoints, you listen intently, weighing both sides to form your own opinion.

Call this then the politics of cupcakes.

When my sis-in-law Jennifer urged me to try the cupcakes at Teacake Bake Shop, I was eager to do so, especially when she heard my teeth were practically disintegrating from all those achingly sweet frosting bombs at so many other bakeries.

But when Single Guy Chef got wind of that recommendation, he cautioned me that he had found Teacake’s cupcakes just so-so.

Hmmmm, hmmm, I thought.

So what was a Food Gal to do except try some for herself, right? So recently, my hubby and I made our way to the Emeryville location (Teacake also has branches in Corte Madera and Lafayette). Each day, about nine or so different cupcakes are available.

We toted home a Pink Velvet with cream cheese frosting, a Chocolate Sour Cream with dulce de leche buttercream, and a Peanut Butter with peanut butter buttercream.

The cupcakes ($3 each) are pretty, decorated simply with a clean, modern sensibility. I took a bite of the Pink Velvet. My sis-in-law was correct that the frosting was not overly sweet, and actually had a nice tang from the cream cheese. The cake itself was not super strong in cocoa-flavor, and the texture a little dry.

Pink Velvet.

The chocolate cupcake was fudgy tasting, and the frosting was thick, creamy, and tasted dreamily of caramel. But again, the cake was a little on the dry side.

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Dressed Up Veggies

Miso gives an unexpected boost to an array of fresh veggies.

Blanched and sauteed vegetables tossed with melted butter.

Been there. Done that.

Wake things up by mixing an equal amount of blonde miso into the butter first.

Voila! What you get is a really velvety sauce that clings beautifully to the veggies. The flavor doesn’t scream miso soup. Rather it just lends a subtle umami or savoriness to it all.

The recipe for “Saute of Market Vegetables with Miso Butter” is a cinch to make. Even better, you can vary the vegetables you use, according to what’s in season.

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Jack Falstaff Restaurant Celebrates Local Producers

Tasty things grow at Hamada Farms. (Photo courtesy of Leo Gong)

Chefs routinely chant, “It’s all about the ingredients.”

When it comes to a series of special dinners at Jack Falstaff in San Francisco, truer words were never spoken.

At the restaurant’s 2009 Growers Dinners, Executive Chef Jonnatan Leiva showcases the wonderful ingredients he sources regularly from growers he’s worked with for years. At the monthly dinners, guests get to mingle with the farmers whose seasonal ingredients are the star attraction of the four-course dinner. At each dinner, a San Francisco executive chef acts as guest chef to cook at least one course of the meal. Special beers or wines are specifically paired to the dishes, too.

This year’s series of dinners kicks off Feb. 24 with Hamada Farms in Kingsbury, CA. The family-owned farm, which was established in 1921, grows everything from persimmons and avocados to exotic citrus such as Oro Blanco, cocktail grapefruits, Tahitian pumelos, and African shaddock. The guest chef that night will be Staffan Terje, chef-owner of Perbacco.

The dinner is $85, including wine pairings. For reservations, call (415) 836-9239.

If you miss this dinner, you can still catch others in the future:

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