Monthly Archives: July 2009

Peachy Keen

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My favorite way to bake with fresh peaches.

As spring turns to summer, I count the days until peaches arrive at the farmers markets.

I peer into bins, looking anxiously for my favorite stone fruit of them all.

Be they white or yellow, peaches make me think of sunny, carefree days more than any other fruit. I love biting into them out of hand, juice squirting every which way and then some. I also love baking with them, which only intensifies their sweetness.

Over the past few years, my favorite way to showcase peaches is in this recipe adapted from one that originally appeared in Gourmet in August 2005. Luscious peaches get a supporting cast member in juicy, fresh blueberries in this cake that’s almost pie-like in the abundance of fruit it holds.

I wrote about this “Peach Blueberry Cake” a few years back at the San Jose Mercury News. I mentioned how the first time I made it, there didn’t seem to be nearly enough dough to cover a 9-inch springform pan. I labored to make it fit, stretching the dough so thin you could practically see through it. When my story published, a few other readers wrote in saying they had experienced the same perplexing problem.

My answer? I double the pastry portion of the recipe. And I add more fruit to compensate for doing that. The result is a cake that’s as tall as a holiday cheesecake, packed liberally with blueberries and peaches. The cake bakes slowly for a long time so that the fruit doesn’t completely break down, but stays fairly intact. The pastry is alternately cake-like, cookie-like and slightly custardy where the fruit hits it.

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Embracing High Heat, Part II (The Sweet)

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Not your ordinary banana muffin.

Yesterday, you read on Food Gal about how high heat does wondrous things to plain ol’ shrimp.

Today, you can learn that it also does amazing things to baked goods.

Just take these “Roasted Banana Muffins” from the “PlumpJack Cookbook” (Rodale) by Napa food and wine writer, Jeff Morgan.

Actually, you’d have to pry them from my hands because they are just way too good. So much so, you’d have to be a very generous soul to part with any of them.

What makes them so extraordinary?

High heat that roasts the bananas, whole, in their skins, before you peel them, mash them, and stir them into the batter.

Ten minutes at 400 degrees will turn the skins black. After awhile, juices will begin to seep out. That’s when you know the bananas are ready to be removed from the oven.

High heat caramelizes the natural sugars in the bananas, concentrating the fruit flavor.

This is a very simple muffin recipe that doesn’t have a whole lot of frills to it. Because it’s so plain-Jane, you’ll be struck by how banana-y these muffins taste. There’s a deep, pronounced flavor here, despite the few ingredients.

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Embracing High Heat, Part I (The Savory)

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The juiciest shrimp ever.

I dunno about you, but in my early days of cooking, I was petrified of high heat.

Back then when I was a teen, the words, “Heat the pan on high,” would make me quake in fear.

I thought I’d end up burning myself, not to mention whatever I was cooking, along with the poor pan, too.

But the more you cook, the more you realize the beauty of high-heat cooking. There’s nothing like it for creating caramelization, and thus, greater flavor, texture, and color.

Who doesn’t love the blistered crust of pizza baked in a scorching wood-oven? Or the yummy crust on a seared steak? Or the crispy skin on a salmon fillet? Or the smoky, intense flavor vegetables get from being tossed around in a fiery wok?

When I took a recent class at Draeger’s in San Mateo, veteran cookbook authors Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough reminded me of the joy of high-heat cooking, when they demonstrated their recipe for “Roasted Shrimp.” It’s from their newest cookbook, “Cooking Know-How” (Wiley).

Normally, I just saute shrimp in a pan. But their oven-method could not be easier. It’s my new favorite way to cook shrimp.

Like all the recipes in this book, the shrimp one gives you a basic technique, then variations so you can alter the flavorings.

Preparing the baking pan.

The method remains the same: You put a baking dish in a cold oven with oil and herbs. Turn the oven on to 450 degrees. As it warms, the herbs get infused gently into the oil. When the oven gets up to temperature in 15 to 20 minutes, add shrimp (or scallops) to the pan. Cook for about 10 minutes for large shrimp (about 5 minutes for scallops), stirring a couple of times during the cooking process.

Pull out the pan, then stir in salt, pepper, and a dash of acid (vinegar, citrus juice, or wine).

This is by far the juiciest shrimp you’ll ever eat, with a pleasing crunch, too. It’s the high heat that does all that. Moreover, the fragrance of the herbs roasting in the oven is utterly intoxicating.

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Delicious Doings

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Redwood City's new Donato Enoteca. (Photo courtesy of the www.diLuNa.org)

Hungry for braised Niman Ranch oxtail and asparagus tips served over “bigoli” pasta ($14)?

Or pizza topped with house made spicy sausage, broccoli rabe, tomato, and fresh mozzarella ($11)?

Or Mediterranean sea bream sauteed with prawns, mussels, clams and tomato sauce ($18)?

Then, head to downtown Redwood City’s new Donato Enoteca. It’s the new venture by Executive Chef-Owner Donato Scotti who cooked at the Michelin-starred Ristorante dell’Angelo in Italy, and most recently at La Strada in Palo Alto. Originally from Bergamo, Italy, Scotti’s menu reflects his northern Italian heritage.

The wine program focuses on smaller-production wines, most of them Italian. A large variety of grappas is also available, as it’s one of Scotti’s favorite spirits.

Ubuntu Annex is open for business. (Photo courtesy of Ubuntu)

In the market for upscale gourmet cookware, plus stylish yoga clothing?

Then, you’ll be glad to know that Ubuntu Annex has opened next door to acclaimed Ubuntu Restaurant in downtown Napa.

Find specialty dishware, specialty salts, artisan olive oils, and Ubuntu chef coats and aprons. Wines also will be available by the taste, vertical flight, or bottle at the wine tasting bar.

Colorful houseware available at Ubuntu Annex. (Photo courtesy of Ubuntu)

Wine specials can be had at Lark Creek Restaurant Group establishments throughout July.

For the seventh year in a row, every bottle on every wine list at every restaurant in the group will be offered at half price for brunch, lunch, and dinner during that month.

For instance, at Yankee Pier in Santana Row in San Jose, a bottle of 2008 Honig Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley that’s normally $32, can be enjoyed for $16.

Wine aficionados will find more to like at One Market and LarkCreekSteak restaurants, both in San Francisco. Through July and possibly beyond, both restaurants are touting a premium wine special.

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