Takeout Time: Shawarmaji

The chicken shawarma arabi style at Shawwarmaji.
The chicken shawarma arabi style at Shawwarmaji.

After taking Oakland by storm, Chef Mohammad Abutaha opened a second location of his Shawarmaji last last year not far from Santa Clara University.

The fast-casual Jordanian street food eatery opened with a more limited menu — just chicken and falafel — than its East Bay sister establishment that also features a shawarma blend of beef and lamb. However, when I visited two weeks ago, I was told that beef-lamb finally will be offered in Santa Clara starting sometime this month, if all goes according to plan. So, get your appetite ready.

For the uninitiated, shawarma is vertically spit-roasted meat, marinated in yogurt and spices, that is shaved to order.

The proprietor.
The proprietor.
Art on the walls.
Art on the walls.

Unlike the Oakland location, the twirling towers of meat aren’t on display behind the counter in Santa Clara, but in the kitchen.

You can enjoy the chicken shawarma atop french fries or bundled into different wraps. The Chicken Arabi Style ($19) enfolds the tender, smoky chicken tightly in a tortilla that gets griddled until it’s browned and crisp on the outside. It’s cut into slices and served with sharply pickled carrots, beets, and cauliflower, as well as toum, the whipped garlicky, vegan paste that will definitely keep any vampires at bay.

The delicious seasoned fries and fresh tabouleh.
The delicious seasoned fries and fresh tabouleh.

The Arabi Style comes with your choice of side, which makes for a substantial meal for one. Choose the excellent crisp fries ($5), seasoned with salt and smoky, spicy Aleppo pepper, and you won’t be able to stop eating them.

Or choose the fresh and tangy tabouleh salad ($5), a mix of parsley, mint, green onions, and bulgur accented by plenty of lemon juice.

The falafel wrap.
The falafel wrap.

The falafel sandwich ($11) can be made with a soft hamam roll or a wrap, the latter of which is what I chose. The crisp and very herbaceous falafels are spot-on, and get garnished with cabbage, mint, turnip and cucumber pickles, tahini, and lemon juice. It makes for a perky, tangy mouthful of flavors and both crunchy and tender textures.

Sweet semolina pudding.
Sweet semolina pudding.

For a sweet ending, there’s layali amman ($5), a creamy and dense semolina pudding served chilled that’s flavored with rose water and served in a pool of sweet tahini-milk sauce. Chopped pistachios come in a separate container to shower over. It’s a homey dessert that’s floral and cooling tasting.

(Top to bottom): Toum, hot sauce, and Life Savers.
(Top to bottom): Toum, hot sauce, and Life Savers.

A fun touch is the individually-wrapped peppermint Life Savers that come with your order. You’ll definitely make use of them if you go to town on the homemade toum, spreading it with abandon on the shawarma, because it’s just so wicked good. You can also get a container of red hot sauce. It’s a little chunky, a little oily, and packs a big punch of heat.

Enjoy the food to-go or at live-edge wood tables inside the restaurant.

The restaurant's toum can be purchased by the jar, too.
The restaurant’s toum can be purchased by the jar, too.
House-blended spices for sale, too.
House-blended spices for sale, too.

Pro Tip: If you get addicted to the toum, you can pick up jars to take home in the refrigerator case at the restaurant (6-ounces for $11.99; 11.5 ounces for $19.99). Shawarmaji also bottles its own spice blends ($9) and Jordanian-style ghee ($10) infused with chamomile, nettle, fenugreek, turmeric, cardamom, and mahlab (a powder made from the seeds of the St. Lucy’s cherry grown in the Mediterranean).

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