Mendocino Coast, Part II: The Little River Inn
Mendocino, CA — In this day and age that values change and progress at the speed of light, it’s amazing to think that the Little River Inn has been owned by five generations of the same family who have welcomed legions of guests for the past 85 years.
The original house was built in 1857 by Silas Coombs. His descendent, Ole Coombs, turned the property into an inn in 1939, which is now run by his grand-daughter Cally Dym.
Although I’d driven past the inn over the years, it was only when I was invited to stay as a guest last month that I realized just how surprisingly sprawling it is.
The Little River Inn sits on a sweeping 225 acres overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Not only are there 65 rooms, a spa, and a bar and restaurant, but two tennis courts and a nine-hole golf course with pro shop.
Moreover, there are another five cottages just a half mile down the road, which is where my husband and I stayed in the Coombs Cottage, which was larger than many apartments I’ve lived in.
The Coombs Cottage is like your own private hideaway, complete with a hot tub plus rocking chairs on the deck to watch the sunset over the ocean.
Inside, the pitched timber roof is the focal point of the king room that’s outfitted with a dining table, refrigerator, microwave, coffeemaker, and oversized sofa chairs with ottomans in front of a big fireplace.
Yes, it rains in Mendocino — a lot. But even on a day when it’s pouring, there are far worse places to be than inside reading a book by the fire or outside in the hot tub soaking away any aches and pains. (Hey, it’s already wet outside, so why not.)
When hunger pangs hit, head to the restaurant on site headed by Culinary Institute of America grad, Chef Mark Dym, who also happens to be Cally’s husband. You may be tempted to walk to the restaurant that’s on the main property, given the short distance from the cottages. But be safe and take your car since the route has no street lights or sidewalks.
Once inside, you’ll encounter Ole’s Whale Watch Bar first, named for grandfather Ole who somehow convinced his mother-in-law that this space, once her living room, would be the ideal spot for a bar.
The bar makes a mean negroni, “Fern Creek Negroni” ($15) with Terroir Gin, Gran Classico, Campari, and Carpono Antica, and even offers Pliny the Elder on draft ($7).
Even if you choose to eat in the main dining room, you can order off the bar menu or restaurant menu.
One of the newest starters on the restaurant menu is the lobster mac ($19), and it’s a winner. Seasoned with Old Bay, the curly macaroni is enveloped in a very creamy, slightly spicy cheese sauce that clings to every noodle but remains a little runny and not one big clumped mass that some mac ‘n’ cheese suffer from. There was a good amount of claw and knuckle meat, so that you actually taste the lobster. Everything was covered in panko, creating a nice toasty top.
The flash-fried calamari ($17) arrived hot and tender. There were only rings, no tentacles, with a spicy honey mustard sauce to dunk them into.
The Little Gem Caesar ($14) were individual, chilled, crisp leaves arrayed on a plate like a flower, and very lightly dressed with Caesar dressing, pink peppercorns, golden croutons, and crumbles of Parmesan tuille. Because of the way it was presented, the salad could almost be eaten with fingers like endive spears.
The entree portions are huge. My husband’s fish and chips ($21) covered the plate with what looked like an half a catfish, beer-battered with cornmeal and brilliantly fried to a formidable crunch. The fries were crisp, and the cabbage slaw lightly creamy and tangy.
Wanting to eat a little lighter, I actually ordered fish tacos from the “bar snacks menu.” For $11, you get two small tortillas, each nearly covered by a griddled local rockfish fillet, then dolloped with pico de gallo and chipotle crema.
For dessert, the warm berry cobbler ($10) hit the spot with its bounty of jammy blueberries and raspberries underneath a flaky crust that was topped with a generous scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.
The next day, enjoy breakfast back at the restaurant — or delivered to your room. You can even pre-order the night before by checking off your selections and dropping off your order sheet at the front desk.
Your breakfast will be driven over, packed in a big insulated bag with everything double-wrapped — even the coffee cups — to ensure no spills en route.
Your breakfast entrees won’t be on plates, but metal trays. My husband went with “Ole’s Favorite Breakfast” ($19) that included two eggs any style, bacon or sausage, and two thin Swedish pancakes.
I opted for the avocado toast ($17) spread with avocado, cotija cheese, and perhaps too many sprouts. I removed some to better taste the avocado. Off to the side were baby lettuces and radishes that you could either pile atop the toast or eat as a side salad.
The scone ($4.50) was a real treat with crunchy sugar on top and a lovely buttery taste. A side of fresh fruit ($6) included an assortment of juicy blueberries, strawberries, blackberries and orange segments.
Yes, it was raining outside as we settled into our breakfast. But we hardly noticed.
